bc

I turned on the defrosters after not using them for a while, and
the anti-freeze smell nearly ran me out of the car. How bad is
it to change the heater core? I'm assuming it's leaking since
I'd not noticed the smell until I turned the defrosters on and
turned the heat control up a little bit on a chilly morning. It's
a 95 850 GLT if that makes any difference. Thanks.

Mike F

bc wrote:
>
> I turned on the defrosters after not using them for a while, and
> the anti-freeze smell nearly ran me out of the car. How bad is
> it to change the heater core? I'm assuming it's leaking since
> I'd not noticed the smell until I turned the defrosters on and
> turned the heat control up a little bit on a chilly morning. It's
> a 95 850 GLT if that makes any difference. Thanks.

I've not ever done one, but from what I understand, it's fairly easy, in
context. The heater core is dead center, and removable without taking
the whole dash out.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

Tim..

"Mike F" <"mikef2316()"@allsttream.nett> wrote in message
news:42AD8038.A4FDC2AB@allsttream.nett...
> bc wrote:
> >
> > I turned on the defrosters after not using them for a while, and
> > the anti-freeze smell nearly ran me out of the car. How bad is
> > it to change the heater core? I'm assuming it's leaking since
> > I'd not noticed the smell until I turned the defrosters on and
> > turned the heat control up a little bit on a chilly morning. It's
> > a 95 850 GLT if that makes any difference. Thanks.
>
> I've not ever done one, but from what I understand, it's fairly easy, in
> context. The heater core is dead center, and removable without taking
> the whole dash out.

95% of the work is done in the left footwell. Is alot easier if you remove
the left hand front seat but not essential. I dont bother.

Easy on a RHD car, slightly less easy on a LHD. Just take your time and dont
rush it.

The carpets will fold up out of the way sufficiently, and the audio amp
which is bolted infront of the heater unit will move out of the way enough
to make room without disconnecting it.

Metal work is sharp so you *will* end up with blood and cut knuckles!

Use an airline or air pump to blow as much coolant out of the matrix after
disconnecting the pipes in the engine bay first, else you'll have a big
flood in the car when you disconnect the stub pipes from the actual matrix.
In any case lay out some towels to catch the remaining coolant which will
flow out as you manipulate the matrix from the heater unit.

I would strongly suggest renewing the two O-rings on the heater stub pipes
as you dont want a spray of hot coolant at a later date! Grease the new ones
before pushing the metal stubs back into the new matrix (its plastic- dont
want any cracks!)

If the car has air con I believe it is still possible to R&R the matrix
without discharging the a/c, although I've not done an 850 with aircon so
cant confirm.

Tim..

Michael Pardee

"Tim.." <the.farm.hates.spam@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:d8kf91$pk4$1@nwrdmz01.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com...
> Metal work is sharp so you *will* end up with blood and cut knuckles!
>

I've recently become a convert to the cloth and leather gloves like the
Stanley Hand Gear Pro. There are other brands, all of which sell for about
$20 US. You keep most of your dexterity and reduce the blood a lot. Some
people don't like any gloves, but these sure beat conventional cotton or
leather gloves. Available at auto parts shops and hardware stores.

Mike