Armchair observer

I had to replace the front struts at 110,000 miles on my S70. Now the
rear struts are starting to make clunking noises. Is this reasonable
service life for Volvo struts? What should replacement of the rear
struts cost?

Mike F

Armchair observer wrote:
>
> I had to replace the front struts at 110,000 miles on my S70. Now the
> rear struts are starting to make clunking noises. Is this reasonable
> service life for Volvo struts? What should replacement of the rear
> struts cost?

There are rubber bushings on the top of the rear shocks which are
normally the cause of the noise. A little investigation under the trunk
carpet should tell you if that's the problem.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

Armchair observer

Forgive the dumb questions, but are the shock mount bushings
replaceable separately from the shocks? What should I look for under
the carpet?



On Mon, 07 Mar 2005 10:50:59 -0500, Mike F
<"mikef2316()"@allsttream.nett> wrote:

>Armchair observer wrote:
>>
>> I had to replace the front struts at 110,000 miles on my S70. Now the
>> rear struts are starting to make clunking noises. Is this reasonable
>> service life for Volvo struts? What should replacement of the rear
>> struts cost?
>
>There are rubber bushings on the top of the rear shocks which are
>normally the cause of the noise. A little investigation under the trunk
>carpet should tell you if that's the problem.

Mike F

Armchair observer wrote:
>
> Forgive the dumb questions, but are the shock mount bushings
> replaceable separately from the shocks? What should I look for under
> the carpet?
>

Under the carpet is the top shock mount nut and the top bushing which is
replaceable separately. If you can make the noise by bouncing the
fender manually, you should be able to determine if it's coming from
there. If you need to drive, then you can have someone sitting in the
back seat with the other half of the seat folded down.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

jr

Mike F wrote:
> Armchair observer wrote:
>
>>Forgive the dumb questions, but are the shock mount bushings
>>replaceable separately from the shocks? What should I look for under
>>the carpet?
>>
>
>
> Under the carpet is the top shock mount nut and the top bushing which is
> replaceable separately. If you can make the noise by bouncing the
> fender manually, you should be able to determine if it's coming from
> there. If you need to drive, then you can have someone sitting in the
> back seat with the other half of the seat folded down.
>
I am having this too, can you comment on how the bushing is held in
place? Do I have to mess with the shock mounting fasteners to swap out
the bushing?

Just recently started driving me nuts, what little I drive this car.
Thanks for reply
JR

Mike F

jr wrote:
>
> I am having this too, can you comment on how the bushing is held in
> place? Do I have to mess with the shock mounting fasteners to swap out
> the bushing?
>
> Just recently started driving me nuts, what little I drive this car.
> Thanks for reply
> JR

It's pretty obvious if you look at it. The top shock nut is in a little
well in the bushing, the bushing is held onto the frame with 2 bolts.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

Jim Carriere

jr wrote:
> Mike F wrote:
>
>> Armchair observer wrote:
>>
>>> Forgive the dumb questions, but are the shock mount bushings
>>> replaceable separately from the shocks? What should I look for under
>>> the carpet?
>>>
>>
>>
>> Under the carpet is the top shock mount nut and the top bushing which is
>> replaceable separately. If you can make the noise by bouncing the
>> fender manually, you should be able to determine if it's coming from
>> there. If you need to drive, then you can have someone sitting in the
>> back seat with the other half of the seat folded down.
>>
> I am having this too, can you comment on how the bushing is held in
> place? Do I have to mess with the shock mounting fasteners to swap out
> the bushing?

Two bolts hold the bushing to the trunk floor (there are nuts welded
to the bottom of the trunk floor, the bolts go straight down from
above). One nut holds the bushing to the top of the shock absorber-
the top of the shock is a stud. It will help to have an allen key
(6mm?) to keep the shock from twisting as you tighten that nut. A
normal box wrench won't work to tighten that top nut, because it is
recessed in the bushing.

I'd peel back the carpet in the front corners of your trunk to look
at it, that will give you a much clearer idea than my description.

That bushing costs about $40 IIRC, when one of mine broke I bought
two just in case. It is really made of three pieces- two metal
pieces permanently joined by a rubber piece. In my case the rubber
piece completely tore and wasn't holding the metal pieces together
anymore.

jr

Jim Carriere wrote:
> jr wrote:
>
>> Mike F wrote:
>>
>>> Armchair observer wrote:
>>>
>>>> Forgive the dumb questions, but are the shock mount bushings
>>>> replaceable separately from the shocks? What should I look for under
>>>> the carpet?
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Under the carpet is the top shock mount nut and the top bushing which is
>>> replaceable separately. If you can make the noise by bouncing the
>>> fender manually, you should be able to determine if it's coming from
>>> there. If you need to drive, then you can have someone sitting in the
>>> back seat with the other half of the seat folded down.
>>>
>> I am having this too, can you comment on how the bushing is held in
>> place? Do I have to mess with the shock mounting fasteners to swap out
>> the bushing?
>
>
> Two bolts hold the bushing to the trunk floor (there are nuts welded to
> the bottom of the trunk floor, the bolts go straight down from above).
> One nut holds the bushing to the top of the shock absorber- the top of
> the shock is a stud. It will help to have an allen key (6mm?) to keep
> the shock from twisting as you tighten that nut. A normal box wrench
> won't work to tighten that top nut, because it is recessed in the bushing.
>
> I'd peel back the carpet in the front corners of your trunk to look at
> it, that will give you a much clearer idea than my description.
>
> That bushing costs about $40 IIRC, when one of mine broke I bought two
> just in case. It is really made of three pieces- two metal pieces
> permanently joined by a rubber piece. In my case the rubber piece
> completely tore and wasn't holding the metal pieces together anymore.

I went and looked this over, (did not realize at first this was
accessable from the trunk) peeled back the carpet. I will wait for a
warmer day than below freezing to replace this. One side is noisy
compared to the other which makes no noise I can hear. Can I swap out
the bushing by getting the one corner of the car I am going to work on
up in the air on a jack stand to allow the shock to fully extend and
there by it will not have any force working againist me to put the new
bushing back in place?

I am learning a great deal from this group, thanks to all.
JR