How the heck do you remove those blasted triangular panels from behind the
door that always rot?? Have done the ones on the GS and they were a pig, but
these look impossible without removing most of the back!! Surley there is a
trick to it - I hope!
Graham G wrote:
> How the heck do you remove those blasted triangular panels from behind the
> door that always rot?? Have done the ones on the GS and they were a pig, but
> these look impossible without removing most of the back!! Surley there is a
> trick to it - I hope!
Did you see the article back in Six Stud - 3 editions back ?
Failing that, if they're buggered, why not cut a hole in them and see
what holds them in from the inside ? My new 'uns are going to be made
in galvanised steel !
SpamTrapSeeSig wrote:
> In article <dd9t74$i38$1@nwrdmz01.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com>, Graham G
> <NOSPAM@here.com> writes
>
>> Surley there is a trick to it - I hope!
>
>
> That goes for the ones behind the 2nd row doors on the 110 too...
>
> How do I get they orf?
Dunno, on the 101, there are some self tappers and a smidgeon of pop
rivets, all cunningly concealed behind at least three other panels. It
is, I am afraid, a bugger to get to.
> If you want my advice and can afford to do so get them made in stainless,
I'm making my own ! I am very, very lucky to have all the stuff at work
to do it. I am (will be...) using hankbush fixings to screw the little
bleeders in.
> Did you see the article back in Six Stud - 3 editions back ?
I did, I followed it when I did the ones on the GS. There were several
glaring omissions, such as two rivets cannot be replaced without removing
the seat, and a further half dozen cannot be replaced without removing all
the filler assembly on the one side. It was a complete b*****d to do.
Had a look again this evening, it looks as though I have to un-rivet a large
panel to the roof, remove all the cross bracing and all the verticle
bracing, then remove the capping, remaining pannels and battery box etc. If
it goes smoothly I recon half a day each side. If it goes like the ones on
the GS then a day plus, each side.
Trouble is that with the above proceedure, it looks as though I'm going to
have to bugger up all the paint on the inside too :o(
> Failing that, if they're buggered, why not cut a hole in them and see what
> holds them in from the inside ?
I know what holds them, thats the trouble. They are kind of slid in, so that
they have to be lifted up before they will come out. This means that all the
nice bodywork that is above them and the caping has to be removed.
My new 'uns are going to be made
> in galvanised steel !
If you want my advice and can afford to do so get them made in stainless,
you really don't want to do the job more than once a lifetime. Secondly, you
won't be able to sus out where the holes are in the panel until you have
removed it as everyone is different (drilled as built), therefore you wil
have to remove the panel before you can make the new one. Further to this it
leaves no room for error, and as a galvanised one is likely to need the
holes re-drilling out, you are on a looser to begin with. Stainless would be
the best bet as it means you vcan drill it as required without fear of
buggering up the zinc coating. Should have thought the cost would be pretty
similar. There's a chap that advertises mild steel ones in the club (rob
hallam??), he may be able to make stainless ones or be able to give you a
pattern to work off. I can't afford either solution, so it will be mild
steel for me with lashings of oil paint and silicon.
On Tue, 9 Aug 2005 09:32:20 +0000 (UTC), "Graham G" <NOSPAM@here.com>
wrote:
>How the heck do you remove those blasted triangular panels from behind the
>door that always rot?? Have done the ones on the GS and they were a pig, but
>these look impossible without removing most of the back!! Surley there is a
>trick to it - I hope!
Is it not possible to chop the panel into pieces using a jigsaw or
nibbler and thus make it easier to remove?
pop rivets can me removed using a chisel and brute force too -
especially if the panels is scrap.
I've always seen references to these panels that are 'right buggers'
in six stud, but it seems that they must have been lost when the ambis
were conveted :) (as i havent noticed any horribly corroded panels on
mine!)
Tom Woods wrote:
> Is it not possible to chop the panel into pieces using a jigsaw or
> nibbler and thus make it easier to remove?
> pop rivets can me removed using a chisel and brute force too -
> especially if the panels is scrap.
Getting it OUT isn't the problem, putting it back is !
> I've always seen references to these panels that are 'right buggers'
> in six stud, but it seems that they must have been lost when the ambis
> were conveted :)
Without looking, I think the Ambi still has them, but the body will give
it much more protection than on the GS, where the tilt drips straight
down the offending bit.
> Without looking, I think the Ambi still has them, but the body will give
> it much more protection than on the GS, where the tilt drips straight
> down the offending bit.
Don't think its that the tilt drips down it that causes it. The problem
comes in the nature of the design. It sits directly behind the wheel, and
there is a space that can accumulate dirt. That in its self isnt the
problem, it appears as though the designers left enough of a gap for water
and dirt to emply out of this channel. However as time passes this gap gets
filled up and the panel begins to rot from the inside out. Everyone I have
ever seen has been full of dirt and rotted from the inside. I'm sure there
must be scope for a design modification to stop it happening.
Graham G wrote:
>However as time passes this gap gets
> filled up and the panel begins to rot from the inside out. Everyone I have
> ever seen has been full of dirt and rotted from the inside.
That's true too - mine are literally packed with mud.
I'm sure there
> must be scope for a design modification to stop it happening.
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