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Old 01-04-2006, 11:02   #1 (permalink)
Neil Cummins
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110 Electrical Problems

Hi

Having been delighted to get my 1983 110 V8 CSW through its MOT with flying
colours a couple of weeks ago, I was a bit surprised when the rear fog light
came on yesterday and refused to go off unless the headlights were also off.
I have isolated the switch, but to no avail - it appears that a live feed
has found its way onto the wiring feeding the fog lamp and dashboard
indicator.

I have had the wiring at the back appart to investigate and found that it is
a real mess - it appears that when a previous owner wanted to fit an
auxillary towing socket, he simply cut off the existing wiring and added two
new sockets, wiring one of them directly into the loom behind the rear
offside wheel, rather than doing it properly inside the rear cabin. The
original wiring was left in place. Anyway, having said all that, I still
cannot find a live feed connected to the fog lamp (red and yellow wire). I
am also slightly puzzled as to why there are 2 red/yellow wires in the rear
loom, one of which is of significantly heavier guage than the other. What
appears to happen is that the heavy guage wire comes out of the loom at the
back, into a connector where the feed to the fog lamp is taken off, and then
the lighter guage wire goes back underneath the body, where it is spliced
into the towing socket wiring as well as disappearing back into the loom,
appearing to go back towards the front of the vehicle. Both red/yellow wires
appear to be a part of the original loom.

Any thoughts/suggestions much appreciated, as I am a bit stumped!

Regards

Neil


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Old 01-04-2006, 15:01   #2 (permalink)
SpamTrapSeeSig
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Re: 110 Electrical Problems

In article <N--dnSWVqIwajSHeRVnyiA@pipex.net>, Neil Cummins
<neil@neilkath.nildram.co.uk> writes

>Any thoughts/suggestions much appreciated, as I am a bit stumped!


Couple of things: could it be that one of the switches is falling apart?
Also, I've assumed you're getting normal brightness from the fog lamp -
is that correct?


Regards,

Simonm.

--
simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
SIMON MUIR, BRISTOL UK www.ukip.org
EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq
GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/
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Old 01-04-2006, 23:01   #3 (permalink)
John Oakes
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Posts: n/a
Re: 110 Electrical Problems



SpamTrapSeeSig wrote:
> In article <N--dnSWVqIwajSHeRVnyiA@pipex.net>, Neil Cummins
> <neil@neilkath.nildram.co.uk> writes
>
>> Any thoughts/suggestions much appreciated, as I am a bit stumped!

>
>
> Couple of things: could it be that one of the switches is falling apart?
> Also, I've assumed you're getting normal brightness from the fog lamp -
> is that correct?
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Simonm.
>

Could be virus.
My rear lights are playing up aswell on my 110 v8 csw.
I put new one's in and now there playing up. While engine on passenger
works. Turn off and put light on the driver side work and then doesn't
Sure the wiring correct like for like. Anybody with clues welcome I
still think this is a virus sorely tempted to reboot.
--
-
Compliments

John N Oakes
Manchester, England.

=============================
! Nightshift Morlock Worker!
! Landrover 110 V8 1988 !
! Atari/Win/Mac User !
=============================
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Old 01-05-2006, 00:01   #4 (permalink)
Neil Cummins
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Posts: n/a
Re: 110 Electrical Problems


"SpamTrapSeeSig" <no-one@nospam.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:opvfbrI+uEvDFwIZ@tigger.muircom.demon.co.uk...
> In article <N--dnSWVqIwajSHeRVnyiA@pipex.net>, Neil Cummins
> <neil@neilkath.nildram.co.uk> writes
>
>>Any thoughts/suggestions much appreciated, as I am a bit stumped!

>
> Couple of things: could it be that one of the switches is falling apart?
> Also, I've assumed you're getting normal brightness from the fog lamp - is
> that correct?
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Simonm.
>
> --
> simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
> SIMON MUIR, BRISTOL UK www.ukip.org
> EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq
> GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/


Simon

Any idea which switch? I've taken the fog lamp switch totally out of
circuit, with no effect. Testing at the switch connector shows 12v on both
wires. I'll take a look at the headlight switch, but I can't see at the
moment how that could feed directly to the fog lamp without going through
the fog switch.

Regards

Neil


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Old 01-05-2006, 02:01   #5 (permalink)
William Tasso
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Posts: n/a
Re: 110 Electrical Problems

Neil Cummins <neil@neilkath.nildram.co.uk> wrote:

> Hi


How do you do?

> Having been delighted to get my 1983 110 V8 CSW through its MOT with
> flying
> colours a couple of weeks ago, I was a bit surprised when the rear fog
> light
> came on yesterday and refused to go off unless the headlights were also
> off.


Are you sure this is a new problem? Could it be the bulb was replaced for
the MOT and you only just noticed?

I have the opposite problem - both the rear fog and reverse lamps chew
bulbs like they're going out of fashion. Suspect water ingress to lamp
units in the absense (so far) of any other evidence.

An 'as built' electrical drawing would certainly be a boon in solving
these mysteries.

btw: can anyone advise if the 2nd position on the fog lamp switch is
actually wired to someplace useful or do I need to connect front fog lamp
units/relay direct to the switch?

--
William Tasso

110 V8 (white)
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Old 01-05-2006, 12:01   #6 (permalink)
EMB
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Posts: n/a
Re: 110 Electrical Problems

William Tasso wrote:

> I have the opposite problem - both the rear fog and reverse lamps chew
> bulbs like they're going out of fashion. Suspect water ingress to lamp
> units in the absense (so far) of any other evidence.


It could be a loose/dirty connection making intermittent contact - the
flickering that results kills bulbs very quickly.


--
EMB
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Old 01-05-2006, 13:01   #7 (permalink)
William Tasso
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Posts: n/a
Re: 110 Electrical Problems

EMB <embtwo@gmail.com> wrote:

> William Tasso wrote:
>
>> I have the opposite problem - both the rear fog and reverse lamps chew
>> bulbs like they're going out of fashion. Suspect water ingress to
>> lamp units in the absense (so far) of any other evidence.

>
> It could be a loose/dirty connection making intermittent contact - the
> flickering that results kills bulbs very quickly.


Aha - thanks for the heads up.

--
William Tasso
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