Richard Brookman

Got the head on and now refitting all the bits and bobs.

The heater valve which fits into the rear of the cylinder head - when I
screw it in tight, the stub for the heater hose is facing forward. It needs
to turn another 180deg to enable the hose to fit. I've annealed the copper
washer to see if it will swell up a bit, but still it won't face the right
way.

I could fit another washer so it tightens sooner, but it was fine with just
the one when I took it off a couple of days ago.

Am I missing a trick here?

--
Rich
==============================
Disco 300 Tdi auto
S2a 88" SW
Tiggrr (V8 trialler)

Karen Gallagher

"Richard Brookman" <newsboy@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:3k7t2fFskar1U1@individual.net...
Got the head on and now refitting all the bits and bobs.

The heater valve which fits into the rear of the cylinder head - when I
screw it in tight, the stub for the heater hose is facing forward. It needs
to turn another 180deg to enable the hose to fit. I've annealed the copper
washer to see if it will swell up a bit, but still it won't face the right
way.

I could fit another washer so it tightens sooner, but it was fine with just
the one when I took it off a couple of days ago.

Am I missing a trick here?

--
Rich
==============================
Disco 300 Tdi auto
S2a 88" SW
Tiggrr (V8 trialler)

It should be a collapsing washer - one use only. If you can't get one of
these, use PTFE tape or something to assist in providing a seal when it's
not screwed home.

K

David G. Bell

On Wednesday, in article <3k7t2fFskar1U1@individual.net>
newsboy@nowhere.com "Richard Brookman" wrote:

> Got the head on and now refitting all the bits and bobs.
>
> The heater valve which fits into the rear of the cylinder head - when I
> screw it in tight, the stub for the heater hose is facing forward. It needs
> to turn another 180deg to enable the hose to fit. I've annealed the copper
> washer to see if it will swell up a bit, but still it won't face the right
> way.
>
> I could fit another washer so it tightens sooner, but it was fine with just
> the one when I took it off a couple of days ago.
>
> Am I missing a trick here?

Only one suggestion. Unscrew it carefully until it just clicks - the
threads disengage and drop in. Then tighten. I've used this trick on one
or two things, but it may be the threads need to be particularly fine
pitched for the diameter.

--
David G. Bell -- SF Fan, Filker, and Punslinger.

"I am Number Two," said Penfold. "You are Number Six."

Richard Brookman

so David Bexhall was, like...
> "Karen Gallagher" <karen_oz@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:9dADe.597$ka6.7034@nnrp1.ozemail.com.au...
>>
>> It should be a collapsing washer - one use only. If you can't get
>> one of these, use PTFE tape or something to assist in providing a
>> seal when it's not screwed home.
>>
> I second the suggestion about PTFE tape, I had exactly this problem 3
> years ago when fitting a new valve. The PTFE tape (obtainable from a
> plumbing supplies shop, just in case you've never heard of it)
> enables you to position the outlet where you want. Hasn't leaked in
> 3 years.
>
> Dave
> 1983 S111 petrol SWB

I not a big fan of PTFE tape in cooling systems - bits have a habit of
floating off and clogging things up, although OK in an emergency. In the
end I discovered the right washer - the local factor sells them as sump plug
washers, which is why I couldn't find one. Once I had the correct washer,
the valve fitted perfectly.

Thanks for the help, all.


--
Rich
==============================
Disco 300 Tdi auto
S2a 88" SW
Tiggrr (V8 trialler)

Richard Brookman

so Karen Gallagher was, like...

>It should be a collapsing washer - one use only.

So it should - now sorted. Thanks.

Rich