Re: Bloody annoying clunk/clonk!
"m0bcg" <email@example.com> wrote in message
>i can tell you exactly what that is .
> tighten a bit more tightly the bolts through the brackets on the
> front axle that hold the radius arms in place .
> it may be the rear bracket on the drivers side that is clunking .
> ive had this on a range rover and both my landy 90s .
> the hole in the bracket very slightly enlarges with years of suspension
> movement and if the nut is sufficiently loose to allow the bracket to
> slip slightly when suspension is moved by a certain amount it will make
> it go clunk .
> this usually happened to me when turning tight turns or going around
> roundabouts, and also on rough ground .
> you need an 18" knuckle bar in order to get plenty of torque on the
> nuts .
> you may well have changed the bushes but the hole in the bracket is
> still the same as it was previously .
> there is a washer welded onto the bracket in line with hole , you could
> replace it if you want to but i found tightening the nuts up on all
> bolts holding the radius arms cured the clunk .
> i can tell you it took me some time to find this and it will most
> likely cure youre problem if you tighten the nuts sufficiently .
I'd also take a good look at the bolts themselves. In the case of my early
'76 RR, I replaced most of the bolts, with longer ones, because they had one
side of the brackets riding on the threads which had worn down. Depending on
the next size up in length I had to use washers to get some to fit properly.
It looked to me as if the designers first made the brackets and then went
looking for bolts to fit instead of designing the brackets so that both
sides were on the shank of a suitable bolt.
Trouble is, now that I've replaced all bolts and bushes, the remaining
clunks are less obvious as to their location. The body mounting bushes look
suspect but replacing them without raising the body away from the chassis
looks impossible. Is replacing one at a time in situ possible?
Taking this a few step's further, is it possible to remove
engine/gearbox/transfer case as a single unit, at home, or do I lift off
body and do everything as the easiest way? My manual talks of removing
doors, seats & flooring to remove transfer case etc. If engine is removed in
a normal fashion, will the rest drop down through chassis rails easily?