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Old 06-14-2005, 01:01   #1 (permalink)
Andrew Renshaw
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Defender 110 brakes

Hi all,

I am going to tackle the front and back brakes today, I have a kit for the
front. Is it a difficult job? Pads and shoes is all I am doing. How many
hours should I alllow?

Yours

Andy R

Defender 110CSW
1991
H Reg (English)
The blue Tank - Brikama or Bust, January 2006


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Old 06-14-2005, 05:01   #2 (permalink)
beamendsltd
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Posts: n/a
Re: Defender 110 brakes

In message <qwvre.12489$K5.7966@newsfe4-win.ntli.net>
"Andrew Renshaw" <andrew@preaching.co.uk> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I am going to tackle the front and back brakes today, I have a kit for the
> front. Is it a difficult job? Pads and shoes is all I am doing. How many
> hours should I alllow?
>
> Yours
>
> Andy R
>
> Defender 110CSW
> 1991
> H Reg (English)
> The blue Tank - Brikama or Bust, January 2006
>
>


The front is easy - wheel off, remove fitting kit pins, remove
pads, push in caliper pistons (making sure the other one doesn't
pop out - a bit of wood helps), insert new pads and fit fitting kit.
If the pistons are not stubborn, about 15-20 mins a side.

The rears can be a pain if the drums don't come off easily,
but replacing the shoes is only fiddly (getting the springs in the right
place) rather than difficult - a pair of mole grips or pipe grips
with a rag round them to pull the shoes about is a good idea.
Mind those fingers!
Just keep an eye on the cylinders - they pistons don't usually
pop out, but it can happen.
Re-assemble, set the adjustement (spinning the wheel by hand), then
go for a short run (remembering that you may not have any brakes!)
and then re-adjust.
Drive carefully for a few miles while the pads/shoes bed in,
idealy then re-checking the adjustment.
Allow at least an hour a side on the rear and get a stock of Language
in if the drums are stuck.

Richard

--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk sales@beamends-lrspares.co.uk
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Helping keep Land Rovers on and off the road to annoy the Lib Dems
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Old 06-14-2005, 05:01   #3 (permalink)
MVP
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Posts: n/a
Re: Defender 110 brakes

On Tue, 14 Jun 2005 07:17:42 GMT, "Andrew Renshaw"
<andrew@preaching.co.uk> wrote:

>Hi all,
>
>I am going to tackle the front and back brakes today, I have a kit for the
>front. Is it a difficult job? Pads and shoes is all I am doing. How many
>hours should I alllow?
>
>Yours
>
>Andy R
>
>Defender 110CSW
>1991
>H Reg (English)
>The blue Tank - Brikama or Bust, January 2006


Front pads, 10-20 minutes per side. same for rear but if they are
drums it could take a LONG time to get the drum off


Regards.
Mark.
--
_________________________________________
3.9 V8i LPG auto Disco - coming soon
1990 SAAB 9000 fastasyoulike
www.4x4info.info
www.mvp-fine-art.co.uk
www.markvarleyphoto.co.uk
charity calendar project -
http://www.4x4info.info/calendar/
_________________________________________



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Old 06-14-2005, 09:01   #4 (permalink)
Hirsty's
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Posts: n/a
Re: Defender 110 brakes

Copperslip ? Check for scoring ?? OEM pads or not ???



"beamendsltd" <beamendsltd@btconnect.com> wrote in message
news:d933d57a4d%beamendsltd@btconnect.com...
> In message <qwvre.12489$K5.7966@newsfe4-win.ntli.net>
> "Andrew Renshaw" <andrew@preaching.co.uk> wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I am going to tackle the front and back brakes today, I have a kit for

the
> > front. Is it a difficult job? Pads and shoes is all I am doing. How many
> > hours should I alllow?
> >
> > Yours
> >
> > Andy R
> >
> > Defender 110CSW
> > 1991
> > H Reg (English)
> > The blue Tank - Brikama or Bust, January 2006
> >
> >

>
> The front is easy - wheel off, remove fitting kit pins, remove
> pads, push in caliper pistons (making sure the other one doesn't
> pop out - a bit of wood helps), insert new pads and fit fitting kit.
> If the pistons are not stubborn, about 15-20 mins a side.
>
> The rears can be a pain if the drums don't come off easily,
> but replacing the shoes is only fiddly (getting the springs in the right
> place) rather than difficult - a pair of mole grips or pipe grips
> with a rag round them to pull the shoes about is a good idea.
> Mind those fingers!
> Just keep an eye on the cylinders - they pistons don't usually
> pop out, but it can happen.
> Re-assemble, set the adjustement (spinning the wheel by hand), then
> go for a short run (remembering that you may not have any brakes!)
> and then re-adjust.
> Drive carefully for a few miles while the pads/shoes bed in,
> idealy then re-checking the adjustment.
> Allow at least an hour a side on the rear and get a stock of Language
> in if the drums are stuck.
>
> Richard
>
> --
> www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk sales@beamends-lrspares.co.uk
> Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
> Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
> Helping keep Land Rovers on and off the road to annoy the Lib Dems



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Old 06-15-2005, 00:01   #5 (permalink)
Austin Shackles
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Defender 110 brakes

On or around Tue, 14 Jun 2005 11:32:45 +0000 (UTC), beamendsltd
<beamendsltd@btconnect.com> enlightened us thusly:

>Allow at least an hour a side on the rear and get a stock of Language
>in if the drums are stuck.


and a bit more if the adjusters have fallen apart, as one of mine had.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Quos deus vult perdere, prius dementat" Euripedes, quoted in
Boswell's "Johnson".
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