"Richard Brookman" <email@example.com> wrote in message
> ...and Nige spake unto the tribes of Usenet, saying...
>> Is there sucha thing, as in how do i really know if it has the
>> problem? I'm off to look at a P38 tomorrow & whilst most things are
>> easy enough to spot, I could use a little experience here!!!
> The only way I know of is to ask the seller to have the engine cold when
> you arrive, and check the water level. Then take it for a good run to get
> everything to normal temp, return to base, let it cool down and check if
> it has lost any.
I'll second that, especially the bit about being cold initially. You can
also whip the plugs out and look for one that appears considerably cleaner
than the rest, much the same thing as lifting the heads and seeing one
piston that appears "washed" clean with very little carbon. You could always
borrow some sort of endoscope thingy and look into the combustion chambers
for signs of washing...??
> Significant water loss, residual pressure in the system, overheating on
> the test drive are all bad signs.
Remember though that the system will be pressurised even if the engine is
> The only way to know for sure is to take the head off and look, but water
> level is a good indication.
> Bear in mind that even if it's a bad'un, there are solutions - new short
> engines aren't ridiculous money, and someone (ACR?) does top-hat liners
> that cure it - PROVIDED that you get the car for a price that factors this
Also available from Lund Engines down in Devon, and most likely any other
decent engineering shop almost anywhere else in the country, as the liners
are available readily. Be warned though, an exchange top-hat linered bare
block only will set you back £800+. If you find anyone doing them cheaper,
please let me know!
Rover V8 engine specialists.
DiscoII 4.0V8, on gas.
110 4.6V8, on gas and steroids!
TR7 3.9V8, on axle stands!!
Stag 3.0V8, the "Rumble-Bee", on the ramps at present.
Thunderbird Sport 900, the "Bumble-Bee", for sale.