"Paul" <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
> "beamendsltd" <email@example.com> wrote in message
>> In message <3mu8dpF17iddhU1@individual.net>
>> "Paul" <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:
>>> the nearside swivel is leaking grease so i want to replace it, apart
>>> from a
>>> hub nut spanner,ball joint splitter and spring balance are there any
>>> special tools i might need. if anyone has already done this job before
>>> there any part that caused major problems? is the haynes manual
>>> the easiest way or are there short cuts not mentioned in haynes? finally
>>> with no major hold ups i am reckoning about 3hrs start to finish, is
>>> about right?
>> Sounds reasonable. Which type of ball joint splitter do you have?
>> The hammer-on-the-end type will knacker the boot of the TRE, the
>> scissor action ones are much better. Better still, get someone to
>> show you the hitting-the-steeing-arm-on-the-end-with-a-big-hammer
>> www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk email@example.com
>> Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
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>> Helping keep Land Rovers on and off the road to annoy the Lib Dems
> how much is the swivel kit, i need the whole lot, chrome ball and grease,
> also do you sell the hub spanner?
I usually split the ball joints by hitting each side at the same time with
two hammers, a tap on top and they pop out. If there is a stuborn one an air
hammer works wonders. The hub nut spanner is 52mm AF, I mannaged to get one
for £8 at a tool stall at a model aircraft show but you can get a box
spanner for about £5. Applogies to Beamends but I got my kit from Paddocks
before I found you guys. As to cutting the seal, there is a spring around
the seal that tensions the goint onto the swivel, if you cut the seal you
cut the spring. You mention grease, I'd use 90s oil and replace it every 6
months, you can't get all the grease out so your buggered if you want to
change. Don't forget the paper gaskets etc, you wont be able to re-use the