I was refitting an injector today, and tightening the clamp down. I was
just about to release the tension on the last pull on the spanner, when the
clamp stud snapped.
It looks to me like the stud can be extracted from the cylinder head. Is
this correct? Anyone know the part number for the replacement stud? Or do
I have to either replace the cylinder head or have it drilled and tapped?
"Steve" <steve@thetaylorfamily.org.uk> wrote in message
news:43bd1d3a$0$910$db0fefd9@news.zen.co.uk...
> Graham Carter wrote:
>
> > It looks to me like the stud can be extracted from the cylinder head.
Is
> > this correct?
>
> Any stud CAN be extracted.. "Easy"way is to drill and retap, hard way
> (least destruction) is to spark it out with an EDM.
>
> Which engine ? Stud broken flush with the surface ?
>
> Steve
Hi,
Engine is 300Tdi. Stud still protrudes about 10mm, but access is tricky -
the cylinder head is sculpted around the injector.
> Engine is 300Tdi. Stud still protrudes about 10mm, but access is tricky -
> the cylinder head is sculpted around the injector.
If you've still got 10mm of stud protruding just clean up the thread,
put on two nuts (if necessary cut down) and unthread with a spanner
using the bottom nut.
> Graham Carter wrote:
>
>> Engine is 300Tdi. Stud still protrudes about 10mm, but access is
>> tricky -
>> the cylinder head is sculpted around the injector.
>
> If you've still got 10mm of stud protruding just clean up the thread,
> put on two nuts (if necessary cut down) and unthread with a spanner
> using the bottom nut.
perhaps after lagging the entire shebang in penetrating oil (plusgas
maybe) for a day or two.
if it's stuck fast there's a good risk of stripping the thread from the
head.
<willie@macleod-group.com> wrote in message
news:1136470459.394861.148430@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Graham Carter wrote:
>
>> Engine is 300Tdi. Stud still protrudes about 10mm, but access is
>> tricky -
>> the cylinder head is sculpted around the injector.
>
> If you've still got 10mm of stud protruding just clean up the thread,
> put on two nuts (if necessary cut down) and unthread with a spanner
> using the bottom nut.
>
> Regards
>
> William MacLeod
Or, put a nut over the end of the thread and weld on to stud with a mig on a
fairly high power setting and unscrew whilst still hot. Works every time,
for me at least.
Badger.
<willie@macleod-group.com> wrote in message
news:1136470459.394861.148430@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Graham Carter wrote:
>
> > Engine is 300Tdi. Stud still protrudes about 10mm, but access is
tricky -
> > the cylinder head is sculpted around the injector.
>
> If you've still got 10mm of stud protruding just clean up the thread,
> put on two nuts (if necessary cut down) and unthread with a spanner
> using the bottom nut.
>
> Regards
>
> William MacLeod
>
Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, this stud is shaped. You have a
thread that goes into the head (I assume). This has like a flange so it
goes in the correct distance. The bit that sicks out then is shaped, and
has a waistlike section without any threads, and then there is the thread
for the clamp nut.
So stud protruding doesn't have any threads, and is about 3/4 the diameter
of the rest of the stud.
My thoughts are a professional stud extractor or weld a nut onto it!
In article <dpjdpi$nbt$1@domitilla.aioe.org>, Graham Carter
<grahamcarter@hotmail.com> writes
>My thoughts are a professional stud extractor or weld a nut onto it!
The latter. At least to start with. Yer proper stud extractor won't do
it either if it's just round bar.
And an afterthought which is probably obvious: block the hole up before
using the welder. having a lump of spatter rattling around inside won't
improve performance but would be a pig to remove (or should that be boar
- see another thread)
Thanks for the advice on removing the stud. Anyone out there got a parts
manual for the 300Tdi. I need to confirm that I can actually get a
replacement stud.
When you look at the cylinder head, you have the injector, then a threaded
stud (the bit that has broken), and then a small dowel. The clamp fits
round the injector flats at one end, rests on the dowel at the other end.
The broken stud goes through the middle of the clamp, and a nut is used to
clamp the injector in place.
I have had a look on a few sites (Richard's at Bearmend's is one of the
best, shame he can't ship to me here in Zimbabwe (problem with insurance))
and there is a part "ERR1019 - Stud - Injector Clamp". Can anyone with a
parts manual confirm that this is the right part?
> Or, put a nut over the end of the thread and weld on to stud with a mig on a
> fairly high power setting and unscrew whilst still hot. Works every time,
> for me at least.
I'll second that.
Also, contrary to another post here, if you've got enough room for it a
stud extractor will remove the remaining piece.
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