Nige

I intend on repainting my whole 110 CSW from dysentery brown to another colour soon enough (could be
months etc) I have a new rear door & the old one is buggered. Not wanting to paint the thing twice can I
fit it as it comes in primer & if so for how long? I need to get moving on the chassis bit next due to
the time of year, just needs shutzing or another way of slowing down the inevitable!

I'm thinking either full sand or nato green, maybe Tangiers Orange if I'm in a gay enough mood!!!

I like the idea of full sand inc wheels & everything! Saves having to arse about with more wheels!

Nige

--�
Subaru WRX (Annabel)

Landrover 110 County Station Wagon (Tyson)

'"Say hello to my little friend"

Nige

Nige wrote:
> I intend on repainting my whole 110 CSW from dysentery brown to
> another colour soon enough (could be months etc) I have a new rear
> door & the old one is buggered. Not wanting to paint the thing twice
> can I fit it as it comes in primer & if so for how long? I need to
> get moving on the chassis bit next due to the time of year, just
> needs shutzing or another way of slowing down the inevitable!
> I'm thinking either full sand or nato green, maybe Tangiers Orange if
> I'm in a gay enough mood!!!
> I like the idea of full sand inc wheels & everything! Saves having to
> arse about with more wheels!
> Nige
>
> --�
> Subaru WRX (Annabel)
>
> Landrover 110 County Station Wagon (Tyson)
>
> '"Say hello to my little friend"

Just done the shutze job, jesus I am sat in me skids covered in shutz shit!!

Feels strangly 'satisfying' mind you I did find a repair needed to the chassis near the rear arm
connection point!

Looks like it's had new rear bulkhead recently & might need a bit more work on chassis in a few years!

Nige

--�
Subaru WRX (Annabel)

Landrover 110 County Station Wagon (Tyson)

'"Say hello to my little friend"

Stephen Hull

In message <3m0lgeF14n8mjU1@individual.net>
"Nige" <nigel.inceBUGGEROFF@btinternet.com> wrote:

>I intend on repainting my whole 110 CSW from dysentery brown to another
>colour soon enough (could be months etc) I have a new rear door & the
>old one is buggered. Not wanting to paint the thing twice can I fit it
>as it comes in primer & if so for how long? I need to get moving on the
>chassis bit next due to the time of year, just needs shutzing or
>another way of slowing down the inevitable!

Hmm, In my opinion,

The first coat of primer is the most important layer of paint as it
has more than one function to perform, It must bond to the surface
with enough strength to allow additional coats to be applied over the
top and allow sufficient movement for expansion and contraction of the
surface whether it is wood or metal.

The existing primer particularly on new panels is only what's called a
"shelf primer" which protects the panel from corrosion during storage
but is not designed to be weatherproof in any way. This shelf primer
sometimes called "works primer" should be removed completely and the
panel prepared properly in the conventional way to obtain maximum paint
and panel life.

However you can as a temporary measure spray any old cellulose gloss
over the top before fitting the door, this at least will give some
protection and when your ready to start the job properly simply wipe
off the cellulose gloss and primer with cellulose thinners and start
from scratch.

Steve.


--
Vehicle Painting Pointers: http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus.
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce

Badger

"Stephen Hull" <Steve@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
news:d93ee0984d.Steve@btinternet.com...
> In message <3m0lgeF14n8mjU1@individual.net>
> "Nige" <nigel.inceBUGGEROFF@btinternet.com> wrote:
>
>>I intend on repainting my whole 110 CSW from dysentery brown to another
>>colour soon enough (could be months etc) I have a new rear door & the
>>old one is buggered. Not wanting to paint the thing twice can I fit it
>>as it comes in primer & if so for how long? I need to get moving on the
>>chassis bit next due to the time of year, just needs shutzing or
>>another way of slowing down the inevitable!
>
> Hmm, In my opinion,
>
> The first coat of primer is the most important layer of paint as it
> has more than one function to perform, It must bond to the surface
> with enough strength to allow additional coats to be applied over the
> top and allow sufficient movement for expansion and contraction of the
> surface whether it is wood or metal.
>
> The existing primer particularly on new panels is only what's called a
> "shelf primer" which protects the panel from corrosion during storage
> but is not designed to be weatherproof in any way. This shelf primer
> sometimes called "works primer" should be removed completely and the
> panel prepared properly in the conventional way to obtain maximum paint
> and panel life.
>
> However you can as a temporary measure spray any old cellulose gloss
> over the top before fitting the door, this at least will give some
> protection and when your ready to start the job properly simply wipe
> off the cellulose gloss and primer with cellulose thinners and start
> from scratch.
>
> Steve.

Yet landrover tell us that the standard black primer is actually a cathodic
coating process that should not be removed under any circumstances, in fact
all new panels come with a sticker to that effect. When I painted the new
panels (bulkhead, wings and front doors) for my 110, all I did was flat the
cathodic primer with scotchbrite, etch prime where any bare ally was
showing, then epoxy primed and painted with 2-pack poly gloss. Seems to have
worked ok, nothing untoward happening yet....
Badger.

Stephen Hull

In message <ddg69o$lu2$1@nwrdmz01.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com>
"Badger" <brianhatton@btinternet.com> wrote:

[snip]

>> However you can as a temporary measure spray any old cellulose gloss
>> over the top before fitting the door, this at least will give some
>> protection and when your ready to start the job properly simply wipe
>> off the cellulose gloss and primer with cellulose thinners and start
>> from scratch.
>>
>> Steve.
>
>Yet landrover tell us that the standard black primer is actually a cathodic
>coating process that should not be removed under any circumstances, in fact
>all new panels come with a sticker to that effect. When I painted the new
>panels (bulkhead, wings and front doors) for my 110, all I did was flat the
>cathodic primer with scotchbrite, etch prime where any bare ally was
>showing, then epoxy primed and painted with 2-pack poly gloss. Seems to have
>worked ok, nothing untoward happening yet....
>Badger.
>
>
Of course that is absolutely correct if we're talking about panels that
have been through the cathodic coating process usually associated with
OEM panels.

The cathodic coating provides a barrier from the environment for the
substrate, if the substrate is undermined by way of a scratch dent or
rub-through the corrosion process will rapidly accelerate especially at
these weak areas destroying the substrate as this then becomes the anode
and not the metal.

Most superfluous panels I've come across only have a works primer that
could easily be washed off in thinners, panels that have gone through
this cathodic process will not wash off in thinners as they have also
been subject to oven baking.

I forgot for a moment about OEM panels, I was referring to superfluous
panels that do not or have not necessarily gone through the same
cathodic treatment as the more expensive OEM panels tend to.

Please accept my apology as my post was misleading

Steve.


--
Vehicle Painting Pointers: http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus.
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce