Derry Argue

The reversing light on my 1997 D90 300Tdi stopped working a while ago and I
decided to sort it today.

I removed the centre seat and panel underneath and could then locate the
switch by feel. Without being a contortionist, it would seem very difficult
to get at it from below. I shorted out the female connector and the reverse
light came on, so the electrics are OK.

Google says this switch is not adjustable. Is this correct? The one on the
LT77 apparently is. Whether it is or not, it is going to be a sod to get
out. I got a flattish 19mm ring spanner onto it by threading the wiring and
connector through the spanner but I couldn't get it to turn because the
spanner snagged on the side of the gear box. Either I need a cranked ring
spanner or I need to make up a special tool with an old 19mm socket and a
piece of bar. Or, if the switch really has to be replaced, I can cut off
the wires and use a socket. Google makes mention of a "special tool". Any
ideas what that looks like?

Of course, after all this fiddling around, the reverse switch decided to
work. Frankly, I don't trust it and, depending on advice here, would prefer
to go for a replacement switch.

Any comments? Am I on the right track?

Derry

SteveG

Derry Argue wrote:
> The reversing light on my 1997 D90 300Tdi stopped working a while ago and I
> decided to sort it today.
>
> I removed the centre seat and panel underneath and could then locate the
> switch by feel. Without being a contortionist, it would seem very difficult
> to get at it from below. I shorted out the female connector and the reverse
> light came on, so the electrics are OK.
>
> Google says this switch is not adjustable. Is this correct? The one on the
> LT77 apparently is. Whether it is or not, it is going to be a sod to get
> out. I got a flattish 19mm ring spanner onto it by threading the wiring and
> connector through the spanner but I couldn't get it to turn because the
> spanner snagged on the side of the gear box. Either I need a cranked ring
> spanner or I need to make up a special tool with an old 19mm socket and a
> piece of bar. Or, if the switch really has to be replaced, I can cut off
> the wires and use a socket. Google makes mention of a "special tool". Any
> ideas what that looks like?
>
> Of course, after all this fiddling around, the reverse switch decided to
> work. Frankly, I don't trust it and, depending on advice here, would prefer
> to go for a replacement switch.
>
> Any comments? Am I on the right track?
>
> Derry

IIRC the R380 switch is indeed non-adjustable ... and a right barsteward
to replace.

Have fun :-))


--
Regards

Steve G

Derry Argue

"SteveG <\"s.goodfellow\"@blueyonder" <"dot> wrote in
news:wqgye.62639$G8.29544@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk:

> IIRC the R380 switch is indeed non-adjustable ... and a right barsteward
> to replace.
>
> Have fun :-))

Thanks for the encouragement! :(

Derry

Derry Argue

Derry Argue <home@adviegundogs.co.uk> wrote in
news:Xns9689EB893EC17derryadviegundogscou@130.133.1.4:

> "SteveG <\"s.goodfellow\"@blueyonder" <"dot> wrote in
> news:wqgye.62639$G8.29544@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk:
>
>> IIRC the R380 switch is indeed non-adjustable ... and a right
>> barsteward to replace.
>>
>> Have fun :-))
>
> Thanks for the encouragement! :(
>
> Derry
>

Update on the above.

Once I knew the switch was not adjustable, removal was simple. A faulty
switch just has to be replaced -- cost about £13.50 including VAT. So just
snip the wires close to the switch, and unscrew using a 19mm socket and
ratchet.

Putting in the new switch is less straight forward. You can screw it in
with your fingers but tightening it is a problem. Your socket and ratchet
won't work because of the leads going into the top of the switch. These are
fixed and you can't pull them off as you can with the LT77 switch. There
isn't room to use an open ended spanner or a ring spanner. A short box
spanner might do the job but I did not try.

My fix was to get an old 19mm socket (or, in my case, a 3/4AF socket which
is the same thing) and cut a 1/4 inch slit down one side with a grinder
using a cutting disc. Now you can get the socket on the switch and trail
the leads out through the slot. If you merrily screw the switch home, you
could screw up the wires, so I removed the socket after each 1/4 turn,
straightened out the wires and tightened another 1/4 turn. I was able to
torque the switch down reasonably firmly using this method and it was an
easy job.

Hope this helps someone!

BTW, I gather the adjustable switch (on the LT77) now comes with an over-
sized "locking ring". This ring is screwed down on the switch before it is
inserted and it is automatically at the correct depth -- so the switch is
now effectively "non-adjustable", if you see what I mean!

Derry