My LR90 (1986) NA Diesel is a bit sluggish starting these days.
The battery is new and seems to be charging OK. Glow plugs are new too.
I've also checked the earth straps including, for good measure, proving a
couple of additional ones.
All seemed to be better until yesterday. Started ok first time and ran
around a few fields tugging some trees. Engine was up to running
temperature. When I wanted to re-start engine turned over very slowly and
dashboard lights dimmed before sluggish start. This happened a couple of
times. Seemed to start OK earlier today.
The only thing left for me to check out is the starter motor - could this be
the culprit? If so what's the best way of confirming the problem?
I've limited skill when it come to spanners and the like but will happily
give anything a try!
Having a search I seem to be looking at £120 ish for a new starter motor???
Kind regards,
Richard
1986 EX RAF LR90
This embryonic site has a couple of pictures of the vehicle in question.....
On Mon, 7 Mar 2005 20:08:59 +0000 (UTC), "Richard"
<richard.bush@talk21.com> wrote:
>
>Hi,
>
>My LR90 (1986) NA Diesel is a bit sluggish starting these days.
>
>The battery is new and seems to be charging OK. Glow plugs are new too.
>I've also checked the earth straps including, for good measure, proving a
>couple of additional ones.
>
>All seemed to be better until yesterday. Started ok first time and ran
>around a few fields tugging some trees. Engine was up to running
>temperature. When I wanted to re-start engine turned over very slowly and
>dashboard lights dimmed before sluggish start. This happened a couple of
>times. Seemed to start OK earlier today.
>
>The only thing left for me to check out is the starter motor - could this be
>the culprit? If so what's the best way of confirming the problem?
>
>I've limited skill when it come to spanners and the like but will happily
>give anything a try!
>
>Having a search I seem to be looking at £120 ish for a new starter motor???
>
>Kind regards,
>
>Richard
>
>1986 EX RAF LR90
>
>This embryonic site has a couple of pictures of the vehicle in question.....
>
>http://home.btconnect.com/Richard-Bush/
>
Had this problem the other week, turned out the battery terminal
clamps were iffy, cleaned them up and refitted with a couple of blobs
of vaseline.
>>
>
> Had this problem the other week, turned out the battery
> terminal
> clamps were iffy, cleaned them up and refitted with a
> couple of blobs
> of vaseline.
>
>
> Regards.
> Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
> --
> _________________________________________
> 1984 110 CSW 2.5(na)D
> (3,000 rivets flying in close formation)
> www.4x4info.info
> www.mvp-fine-art.co.uk
> www.markvarleyphoto.co.uk
> _________________________________________
>
>
>
> ................................................................
> Posted via TITANnews - Uncensored Newsgroups Access
> >>>> at http://www.TitanNews.com <<<<
> -=Every Newsgroup - Anonymous, UNCENSORED, BROADBAND
> Downloads=-
>
Hi,
I don't thinks it's the battery terminals. The battery has
only been in about a month and I did grease the terminals as
you suggested.
SNIP
>>
>
> Had this problem the other week, turned out the battery
> terminal
> clamps were iffy, cleaned them up and refitted with a
> couple of blobs
> of vaseline.
>
>
> Regards.
> Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
> --
Nope that's not the problem! Battery is almost new. Nice
clean terminals greased as you recommend. Even checked
voltage whilst on load (via the battery terminals) and that
looked OK.
However, I will make sure they are still clean when I get a
chance tomorrow.
This sounds identical to what my 90 was doing. I rebuilt the starter motor
myself, it was still the same!!!! Eventually I added an extra thixk earth
strap from the starter motor direct to the battery and now it performs like
new! Wouldn't have believed it if I didn't do it myself.
Stew.
--
1990 LR Ninety 2.5D N/A (Jasmine - the off-road toy!)
New Jeep Cherokee Sport CRD
Ex owner of 2002 Freelander Td4 ES (It was really, really bad)
Intersted in facts, not fiction? Look here - http://www.4x4prejudice.org
"Richard" <richard.bush@talk21.com> wrote in message
news:d0iccr$8sc$1@sparta.btinternet.com...
>
> Hi,
>
> My LR90 (1986) NA Diesel is a bit sluggish starting these days.
>
> The battery is new and seems to be charging OK. Glow plugs are new too.
> I've also checked the earth straps including, for good measure, proving a
> couple of additional ones.
>
> All seemed to be better until yesterday. Started ok first time and ran
> around a few fields tugging some trees. Engine was up to running
> temperature. When I wanted to re-start engine turned over very slowly and
> dashboard lights dimmed before sluggish start. This happened a couple of
> times. Seemed to start OK earlier today.
>
> The only thing left for me to check out is the starter motor - could this
> be the culprit? If so what's the best way of confirming the problem?
>
> I've limited skill when it come to spanners and the like but will happily
> give anything a try!
>
> Having a search I seem to be looking at £120 ish for a new starter
> motor???
>
> Kind regards,
>
> Richard
>
> 1986 EX RAF LR90
>
> This embryonic site has a couple of pictures of the vehicle in
> question.....
>
> http://home.btconnect.com/Richard-Bush/
>
On Mon, 7 Mar 2005 20:45:57 +0000 (UTC), Richard wrote:
> Nope that's not the problem! Battery is almost new. Nice
> clean terminals greased as you recommend.
How about at the starter motor end both the supply and earthing. It
doesn't take much resistance at a couple of hundred amps to drop 12v
and stop the motor working... If the terminals are accessable feel
them after it has had one of it's sluggish turning over sessions. If
they aren't cold thats your problem.
In message <d0iei5$at4$1@titan.btinternet.com>
"Richard" <richard.bush@talk21.com> wrote:
> SNIP
> >>
> >
> > Had this problem the other week, turned out the battery
> > terminal
> > clamps were iffy, cleaned them up and refitted with a
> > couple of blobs
> > of vaseline.
> >
> >
> > Regards.
> > Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
> > --
>
>
> Nope that's not the problem! Battery is almost new. Nice
> clean terminals greased as you recommend. Even checked
> voltage whilst on load (via the battery terminals) and that
> looked OK.
> However, I will make sure they are still clean when I get a
> chance tomorrow.
>
> Thanks for the prompt response.
>
> Richard
>
>
>
Run a jump lead from battery -ve to a good earth point on
on the block (lifting brackets are good). If that removes
the problem then it is definately an earth problem, if not
then it indicates a problem on the +ve side of things.
There is no way I'd reccommend running a jump lead from battery
+ve to the solenoid to test that side of things though.
Richard
-- www.beamends-lrspares.co.uksales@beamends-lrspares.co.uk
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Helping keep Land Rovers on and off the road to annoy the Lib Dems
On Wednesday, in article <d0maj5$vi1$1@lust.ihug.co.nz> embtwo@gmail.com "EMB" wrote:
> beamendsltd wrote:
>
> > There is no way I'd reccommend running a jump lead from battery
> > +ve to the solenoid to test that side of things though.
>
> But paralleling a voltmeter with the cable and checking it's reading (ie
> the voltage drop) whilst cranking is safe enough.
If you have a known load, like headlights, you can get a check of the
current too. Check the voltage drop across the battery earth strap with
the lights on. Then try the starter (lights off). Lights only, rough
round-figuring, will be about 10 Amperes. So ten times the voltage drop
will be around 100 Amperes.
And when the engine's running, and the voltage is reversed, you know how
well the alternator is working.
You need to read millivolts (mV) for the normal operation, volts for the
starting.
--
David G. Bell -- SF Fan, Filker, and Punslinger.
"I am Number Two," said Penfold. "You are Number Six."
""David G. Bell"" <dbell@zhochaka.demon.co.uk> wrote in
message news:20050309.1023.102263snz@zhochaka.demon.co.uk...
> On Wednesday, in article <d0maj5$vi1$1@lust.ihug.co.nz>
> embtwo@gmail.com "EMB" wrote:
>
>> beamendsltd wrote:
>>
>> > There is no way I'd reccommend running a jump lead from
>> > battery
>> > +ve to the solenoid to test that side of things though.
>>
>> But paralleling a voltmeter with the cable and checking
>> it's reading (ie
>> the voltage drop) whilst cranking is safe enough.
>
> If you have a known load, like headlights, you can get a
> check of the
> current too. Check the voltage drop across the battery
> earth strap with
> the lights on. Then try the starter (lights off). Lights
> only, rough
> round-figuring, will be about 10 Amperes. So ten times
> the voltage drop
> will be around 100 Amperes.
>
> And when the engine's running, and the voltage is
> reversed, you know how
> well the alternator is working.
>
> You need to read millivolts (mV) for the normal operation,
> volts for the
> starting.
>
> --
> David G. Bell -- SF Fan, Filker, and Punslinger.
>
> "I am Number Two," said Penfold. "You are Number Six."
Hi all,
I've taken the starter motor off for inspection. The
positive terminal on the solenoid (the one leading to the
starter motor) is very corroded and probably the cause of
the starting problems.
Whilst it's out I'm having it re-conditioned. I hope that
will then be the end of that problem.
The responses were most helpful - thanks to all who
suggested solutions.
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