Re: Turbo seal
> There's wet and wet!
Thats the issue - I haven't enough experience in this area to know what
> Do you know the actual history of the engine before the rebuild? What
> sort of damage was present.
No history, 'twas "running", but rough as a bear's arse - The main
damage was knackered pistons, cylinder scoring in 2 and 3 - the rings
were intact, but the ring grooves from the top and second ring were
broken vertically to the piston crown. The crowns were unburnt. The
valve guides were knackered on 2 and 3, and barely on spec on 1 and 4.
The head was warped slighly.
The exhaust valve tappet adjuster on 2 was bent.
Just about every seal face had been gashed up with black silicone
sealant, and the water pump pulley plate was warped.
Project pictures soon.
> There's probably not much you can do to check the turbo without
> dismantling it (which is not usually a good thing).
You don't mean dismounting the turbines though, do you ?
>Check end float and radial play of the rotating
I can measure that to a 0.0001 of an inch if necessary, but have you any
ideas what is "OK" and what is "buggered" ?
> Any noises when rotated by hand? Oil in the compressor outlet
> can be the result of excessive crankcase pressure (turbo oil cannot
> drain back to sump as intended), restricted turbo oil drain (draining
> problem again), high vacuum at compressor inlet (restricted air cleaner?
> - oil is sucked out).
Arghhh. There were no blocked galleries when we checked them, but then
the block itself was being pressurised by the knackered pots.
> If the oil is only on the air side of the turbo it's probably a good sign.
Yes, theres none on the exhaust side. Its very clean in there.
Thanks for your comments Dougal. I am just being paranoid, but then
there is about 500 quid worth of rebore, reworked head, reworked cam
bearings, and a eyewatering amount of parts from Richard at BeamEnds in
it, I don't want to fsck it up on the first run !