Bret Ludwig

Has that swap ever been done?

David Betts

On 23 Sep 2005 19:32:18 -0700, "Bret Ludwig" <bretldwig@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>Has that swap ever been done?

I doubt it. Why would somebody want to destroy the resale value of an
E-type?

David Betts (davidb@motorsport.org.uk)
The Classic Car Gallery: http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=17830847103&n=398038677

Al

In article <3rr9j11m2ned6ptaiq0rnmmd67v8f65n49@4ax.com>,
David Betts <dabetts@ntlworld.com> wrote:

> On 23 Sep 2005 19:32:18 -0700, "Bret Ludwig" <bretldwig@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
> >Has that swap ever been done?
>
> I doubt it. Why would somebody want to destroy the resale value of an
> E-type?
>
> David Betts (davidb@motorsport.org.uk)
> The Classic Car Gallery: http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=17830847103&n=398038677

What is the resale value of an E-type anyway? What have people been
paying for them? In running condition only, that is.

Al

Buckshop LeFunk

A lot of money. They are up to the $40,000 on Ebay.


============
BuckShot LeFunk
==
1998 LS 400
1999 E320 4-Matic


Al wrote:
> In article <3rr9j11m2ned6ptaiq0rnmmd67v8f65n49@4ax.com>,
> David Betts <dabetts@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>
>
>>On 23 Sep 2005 19:32:18 -0700, "Bret Ludwig" <bretldwig@yahoo.com>
>>wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Has that swap ever been done?
>>
>>I doubt it. Why would somebody want to destroy the resale value of an
>>E-type?
>>
>>David Betts (davidb@motorsport.org.uk)
>>The Classic Car Gallery: http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=17830847103&n=398038677
>
>
> What is the resale value of an E-type anyway? What have people been
> paying for them? In running condition only, that is.
>
> Al

Bret Ludwig

Buckshop LeFunk wrote:
> A lot of money. They are up to the $40,000 on Ebay.


What Series? What condition? Original or new bodyshell?

In fact, maybe buying a new bodyshell and going from there is a better
option than "restoring".

David Betts

On 24 Sep 2005 14:38:14 -0700, "Bret Ludwig" <bretldwig@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>Buckshop LeFunk wrote:
>> A lot of money. They are up to the $40,000 on Ebay.
>
>
> What Series? What condition? Original or new bodyshell?

Exactly......and where in the world you are?

> In fact, maybe buying a new bodyshell and going from there is a better
>option than "restoring".

The more original a car, the more it is worth. The most valuable -
other than genuine lightweight or low-drag cars with a racing history
- are the original 3.8 series ones, in open or fixed-head form,
closely followed by the 4.2 series ones - which are actually the
better road cars, with nicer seats and an all-synchro gearbox.

The least desirable car is a series two 4.2 2+2 auto. These cars can
still be picked up for silly money.

Later series three V12s can make very good money as well, but these
are nowhere near as desirable as the earlier cars. Big fat
pose-mobiles, basically <g>.

Price range for a well-restored runner in the UK is probably GBP 15 -
30 thou.. With exceptional, original cars, the sky is the limit.

Advice is always to buy the best you can afford. Mid-price cars can
end up costing you far more than high-end cars. Otherwise, buy a
basket case and start from scratch.

David Betts (davidb@motorsport.org.uk)
The Classic Car Gallery: http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=17830847103&n=398038677

Al

In article <ldicj1ld6iboa93vd0mvh74m6lsc905l2k@4ax.com>,
David Betts <dabetts@ntlworld.com> wrote:

> On 24 Sep 2005 14:38:14 -0700, "Bret Ludwig" <bretldwig@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
> >Buckshop LeFunk wrote:
> >> A lot of money. They are up to the $40,000 on Ebay.
> >
> >
> > What Series? What condition? Original or new bodyshell?
>
> Exactly......and where in the world you are?
>
> > In fact, maybe buying a new bodyshell and going from there is a better
> >option than "restoring".
>
> The more original a car, the more it is worth. The most valuable -
> other than genuine lightweight or low-drag cars with a racing history
> - are the original 3.8 series ones, in open or fixed-head form,
> closely followed by the 4.2 series ones - which are actually the
> better road cars, with nicer seats and an all-synchro gearbox.
>
> The least desirable car is a series two 4.2 2+2 auto. These cars can
> still be picked up for silly money.
>
> Later series three V12s can make very good money as well, but these
> are nowhere near as desirable as the earlier cars. Big fat
> pose-mobiles, basically <g>.
>
> Price range for a well-restored runner in the UK is probably GBP 15 -
> 30 thou.. With exceptional, original cars, the sky is the limit.
>
> Advice is always to buy the best you can afford. Mid-price cars can
> end up costing you far more than high-end cars. Otherwise, buy a
> basket case and start from scratch.
>
> David Betts (davidb@motorsport.org.uk)
> The Classic Car Gallery: http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=17830847103&n=398038677

Mine is a '71 Fixed Head Coupe. All original, including paint; yes it's
faded. Hasn't been wet for at least 20 years. I bought it new in '71 and
it was the last one sold in New England as far as I can tell.

It runs well except for the pinging; I even have a thicker head gasket,
but the gas is lousy nowadays. I've been tempted to use aviation gas,
but it's not legal to do that ;-) I've also been told that some speed
shops sell high octane gas. Since I only put about 200 miles on it per
year now, the cost won't be a factor; if I can find some.

Al

Al

David Betts

On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 14:38:30 GMT, Al <no.spam@wanted.com> wrote:


>Mine is a '71 Fixed Head Coupe. All original, including paint; yes it's
>faded. Hasn't been wet for at least 20 years. I bought it new in '71 and
>it was the last one sold in New England as far as I can tell.
>
>It runs well except for the pinging; I even have a thicker head gasket,
>but the gas is lousy nowadays. I've been tempted to use aviation gas,
>but it's not legal to do that ;-) I've also been told that some speed
>shops sell high octane gas. Since I only put about 200 miles on it per
>year now, the cost won't be a factor; if I can find some.

You need to retard the ignition slightly fow lower octane fuel,
although this may cause the engine to run a little hotter. Best
alternative is to use an octane-boosting additive. Widely available in
the UK from motor accessory stores. No idea about the US. Try
Googling.

David Betts (davidb@motorsport.org.uk)
The Classic Car Gallery: http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=17830847103&n=398038677

Bret Ludwig

David Betts wrote:
> On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 14:38:30 GMT, Al <no.spam@wanted.com> wrote:
>
>
> >Mine is a '71 Fixed Head Coupe. All original, including paint; yes it's
> >faded. Hasn't been wet for at least 20 years. I bought it new in '71 and
> >it was the last one sold in New England as far as I can tell.
> >
> >It runs well except for the pinging; I even have a thicker head gasket,
> >but the gas is lousy nowadays. I've been tempted to use aviation gas,
> >but it's not legal to do that ;-) I've also been told that some speed
> >shops sell high octane gas. Since I only put about 200 miles on it per
> >year now, the cost won't be a factor; if I can find some.
>
> You need to retard the ignition slightly fow lower octane fuel,
> although this may cause the engine to run a little hotter. Best
> alternative is to use an octane-boosting additive. Widely available in
> the UK from motor accessory stores. No idea about the US. Try
> Googling.


Aviation gas is actually not very high octane when measured by the
R+M/2 method. 100LL avgas is about 92. 100/130 is about 98. 115/145 is
almost 103, but no auto engine will burn it straight without severe
lead fouling even at full throttle even with lead scavenging agent.

The trick is to use avgas mixed with unleaded to provide TEL to
increase the octane rating. Becausee avgas has strict RVP
parameters-it's actually closer to "white gas" or JP-4-it is a low
octane base stock with very large amounts of TEL added.

115/145 is only made once a year for Reno air racing. 100/130 is
available in the Pacific Northwest and at a few FBOs with heavy warbird
traffic. 100LL is the only common grade and can be used for this
purpose. About a 4:1 or 5:1 dilution with pump auto gas gives peak
results. Even 10:1 is very bneficial.

It is illegal to put it in a car for on-road use technically. It is
not illegal to buy it for any other use, and usually FBOs will sell you
a gallon or five with no hassles. Some of the bigger ones may give you
grief buit then go elsewhere.

Eventually, leaded avgas will go away because turbines and diesels
will displace most of the recip fleet that is not approved to use auto
fuel.

Al

In article <1127765661.844718.3510@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
"Bret Ludwig" <bretldwig@yahoo.com> wrote:

> David Betts wrote:
> > On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 14:38:30 GMT, Al <no.spam@wanted.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > >Mine is a '71 Fixed Head Coupe. All original, including paint; yes it's
> > >faded. Hasn't been wet for at least 20 years. I bought it new in '71 and
> > >it was the last one sold in New England as far as I can tell.
> > >
> > >It runs well except for the pinging; I even have a thicker head gasket,
> > >but the gas is lousy nowadays. I've been tempted to use aviation gas,
> > >but it's not legal to do that ;-) I've also been told that some speed
> > >shops sell high octane gas. Since I only put about 200 miles on it per
> > >year now, the cost won't be a factor; if I can find some.
> >
> > You need to retard the ignition slightly fow lower octane fuel,
> > although this may cause the engine to run a little hotter. Best
> > alternative is to use an octane-boosting additive. Widely available in
> > the UK from motor accessory stores. No idea about the US. Try
> > Googling.
>
>
> Aviation gas is actually not very high octane when measured by the
> R+M/2 method. 100LL avgas is about 92. 100/130 is about 98. 115/145 is
> almost 103, but no auto engine will burn it straight without severe
> lead fouling even at full throttle even with lead scavenging agent.
>
> The trick is to use avgas mixed with unleaded to provide TEL to
> increase the octane rating. Becausee avgas has strict RVP
> parameters-it's actually closer to "white gas" or JP-4-it is a low
> octane base stock with very large amounts of TEL added.
>
> 115/145 is only made once a year for Reno air racing. 100/130 is
> available in the Pacific Northwest and at a few FBOs with heavy warbird
> traffic. 100LL is the only common grade and can be used for this
> purpose. About a 4:1 or 5:1 dilution with pump auto gas gives peak
> results. Even 10:1 is very bneficial.
>
> It is illegal to put it in a car for on-road use technically. It is
> not illegal to buy it for any other use, and usually FBOs will sell you
> a gallon or five with no hassles. Some of the bigger ones may give you
> grief buit then go elsewhere.
>
> Eventually, leaded avgas will go away because turbines and diesels
> will displace most of the recip fleet that is not approved to use auto
> fuel.
>

Good advice. So a mixture of avgas and autogas would do the trick. I was
wondering about the method used for the octance calculation and your
explaination shows that you have to knowledgeable in this area.

I was hesitant to use an octane booster as I was afraid it would not be
compatible with the materials used in the fuel deliviery system of a '71
XKE. I've heard that the ethanol used to produce "cleaner" fuels used to
have an effect on some automobile fuel systems whan it was first
introduced.

Al