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XJ40, radio etc. XJ experts please read!

3K views 8 replies 0 participants last post by  alan4spamoffd@tpg.com.au 
G
#1 ·
Hi all and greetings from Australia!

I've just repurchased a jaguar XJ40 3.6L 1988 that I sold privately when
temporarily ill, and regretted doing ever since. I see the (temporary)
new owner was unable to solve a couple of problems I had. So, now I've
got the car back, over to the experts for some ideas!

Quiescent current.

With everything off, the current drain remains at 50 mA. This is enough
to flatten the battery unless the car is used at least once a week. Any
ideas?

Radio cassette

To avoid this battery flattening, I disconnect the battery from time to
time. This of course causes the sceurity code to activate and locks out
the radio! I had the codes for the radio written on a scrap of paper -
which I've now lost! I remember the actual codes (frequencies AM and
FM) by heart, but not the sequence of kestrokes surrounding them. I
imagine all radios have the same sequence but just different actual
codes. So will some kind person tell me the sequence and I'll plug my
own codes in.

Puddle lamp

The rear right puddle lamp (on the door) does not work. The festoon
bulb shows continuity and the clips show a voltage of 12 + volts, yet
still the light doesn't light up.

I wonder if this could be due to the fault computer, and also explain
why I get a continuous flashing bulb failure warning, although all the
exterior lamps appear OK, and also maybe explain the continuous current
drain.

Cutting out

Finally (for now!), very occasionally (say three times in as many years)
the car cuts out completely. This can be alarming if in a stream of
traffic on a freeway. Anyone else experienced this?

Your thoughts about any of these would be most welcome, posted on the
group best, or maybe, removing the obvious, in the mailbox.

Thanks
Alan
 
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G
#2 ·
Alan,
Congratulations on the re-purchase of the XJ40. Great car!!
Since you are aware of the amount of the drain on the system, you need to
isolate which circuit it is on. Once you have done that -- it is pretty
simple to determine which appliance is causing the drain.
Your radio must not be a standard for '88 -- at least not in the US. My
original '88 Radio had no codes by which to activate it once the power was
off. It is a simple matter of re-setting the stations that I frequently
listen too. I do know that on later models, the security codes for the
radios were placed on a label on the inside of the bonnet. That way they
were always available. If worse comes to worse, you can contact Jaguar and
they can get you the codes -- providing it is the radio that came with the
car!!
To understand this properly on the puddle lamp -- you are saying that the
bulb shows continuity and the sockets the bulb clips into show 12 volts but
when you put the bulb into the clips it does not work?? Try swapping bulbs
with one that you knows works. This is not a matter of the computer if you
are getting 12 volts to the clip.
The bulb warning light can be any number of problems. The puddle lamp
is not the cause since it is on a totally different circuit and does not
send a bulb out warning to the dash. The first thing you need to do is
check all the bulbs. This means directional as well as the brake lights
(with your foot on the pedal) to make sure they are not the cause as well
as high beam. Usually on the directional, the warning comes on when you
activate them -- but not always. I suggest you check to make sure all is
working as it should. If you still get the warning than you need to go
around the car with a wire plumbing brush and clean all the sockets. Clean
the base of the bulbs as well. If that doesn't work then you need to
re-solder the Bulb Failure modules-starting in the boot. These cars are
notorious for bad solder joints and will cause warning all the time.
I have had the car go dead in the middle of traffic -- but not over a 3
year period of time. Mine lasted about 3 weeks. I changed out the
Crankshaft Position Sensor on the front of the engine and I have never had a
problem since. These items, again, are a common and notorious source of
anguish and if you haven't changed yours out -- you will!!

Webserve
'88 XJ40 with 205,000 miles (330000 km)

<alan4spamoffd@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:4310C530.1AADBFF8@tpg.com.au...
> Hi all and greetings from Australia!
>
> I've just repurchased a jaguar XJ40 3.6L 1988 that I sold privately when
> temporarily ill, and regretted doing ever since. I see the (temporary)
> new owner was unable to solve a couple of problems I had. So, now I've
> got the car back, over to the experts for some ideas!
>
> Quiescent current.
>
> With everything off, the current drain remains at 50 mA. This is enough
> to flatten the battery unless the car is used at least once a week. Any
> ideas?
>
> Radio cassette
>
> To avoid this battery flattening, I disconnect the battery from time to
> time. This of course causes the sceurity code to activate and locks out
> the radio! I had the codes for the radio written on a scrap of paper -
> which I've now lost! I remember the actual codes (frequencies AM and
> FM) by heart, but not the sequence of kestrokes surrounding them. I
> imagine all radios have the same sequence but just different actual
> codes. So will some kind person tell me the sequence and I'll plug my
> own codes in.
>
> Puddle lamp
>
> The rear right puddle lamp (on the door) does not work. The festoon
> bulb shows continuity and the clips show a voltage of 12 + volts, yet
> still the light doesn't light up.
>
> I wonder if this could be due to the fault computer, and also explain
> why I get a continuous flashing bulb failure warning, although all the
> exterior lamps appear OK, and also maybe explain the continuous current
> drain.
>
> Cutting out
>
> Finally (for now!), very occasionally (say three times in as many years)
> the car cuts out completely. This can be alarming if in a stream of
> traffic on a freeway. Anyone else experienced this?
>
> Your thoughts about any of these would be most welcome, posted on the
> group best, or maybe, removing the obvious, in the mailbox.
>
> Thanks
> Alan
>
>
 
G
#3 ·
Dear Webserve

Thanks very much for your very prompt reply. My kippers will taste better this
morning! Perhaps we can talk again later.

On the radio, think it was an original. The sequnce is partly AM xxx FM xx.x.
I know the xxx but have forgotten the rest of the sequence. Someone may be able
to help (without telling me their xxx's! <g>)

Alan

webserve wrote:

> Alan,
> Congratulations on the re-purchase of the XJ40. Great car!!
> Since you are aware of the amount of the drain on the system, you need to
> isolate which circuit it is on. Once you have done that -- it is pretty
> simple to determine which appliance is causing the drain.
> Your radio must not be a standard for '88 -- at least not in the US. My
> original '88 Radio had no codes by which to activate it once the power was
> off. It is a simple matter of re-setting the stations that I frequently
> listen too. I do know that on later models, the security codes for the
> radios were placed on a label on the inside of the bonnet. That way they
> were always available. If worse comes to worse, you can contact Jaguar and
> they can get you the codes -- providing it is the radio that came with the
> car!!
> To understand this properly on the puddle lamp -- you are saying that the
> bulb shows continuity and the sockets the bulb clips into show 12 volts but
> when you put the bulb into the clips it does not work?? Try swapping bulbs
> with one that you knows works. This is not a matter of the computer if you
> are getting 12 volts to the clip.
> The bulb warning light can be any number of problems. The puddle lamp
> is not the cause since it is on a totally different circuit and does not
> send a bulb out warning to the dash. The first thing you need to do is
> check all the bulbs. This means directional as well as the brake lights
> (with your foot on the pedal) to make sure they are not the cause as well
> as high beam. Usually on the directional, the warning comes on when you
> activate them -- but not always. I suggest you check to make sure all is
> working as it should. If you still get the warning than you need to go
> around the car with a wire plumbing brush and clean all the sockets. Clean
> the base of the bulbs as well. If that doesn't work then you need to
> re-solder the Bulb Failure modules-starting in the boot. These cars are
> notorious for bad solder joints and will cause warning all the time.
> I have had the car go dead in the middle of traffic -- but not over a 3
> year period of time. Mine lasted about 3 weeks. I changed out the
> Crankshaft Position Sensor on the front of the engine and I have never had a
> problem since. These items, again, are a common and notorious source of
> anguish and if you haven't changed yours out -- you will!!
>
> Webserve
> '88 XJ40 with 205,000 miles (330000 km)
>
> <alan4spamoffd@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
> news:4310C530.1AADBFF8@tpg.com.au...
> > Hi all and greetings from Australia!
> >
> > I've just repurchased a jaguar XJ40 3.6L 1988 that I sold privately when
> > temporarily ill, and regretted doing ever since. I see the (temporary)
> > new owner was unable to solve a couple of problems I had. So, now I've
> > got the car back, over to the experts for some ideas!
> >
> > Quiescent current.
> >
> > With everything off, the current drain remains at 50 mA. This is enough
> > to flatten the battery unless the car is used at least once a week. Any
> > ideas?
> >
> > Radio cassette
> >
> > To avoid this battery flattening, I disconnect the battery from time to
> > time. This of course causes the sceurity code to activate and locks out
> > the radio! I had the codes for the radio written on a scrap of paper -
> > which I've now lost! I remember the actual codes (frequencies AM and
> > FM) by heart, but not the sequence of kestrokes surrounding them. I
> > imagine all radios have the same sequence but just different actual
> > codes. So will some kind person tell me the sequence and I'll plug my
> > own codes in.
> >
> > Puddle lamp
> >
> > The rear right puddle lamp (on the door) does not work. The festoon
> > bulb shows continuity and the clips show a voltage of 12 + volts, yet
> > still the light doesn't light up.
> >
> > I wonder if this could be due to the fault computer, and also explain
> > why I get a continuous flashing bulb failure warning, although all the
> > exterior lamps appear OK, and also maybe explain the continuous current
> > drain.
> >
> > Cutting out
> >
> > Finally (for now!), very occasionally (say three times in as many years)
> > the car cuts out completely. This can be alarming if in a stream of
> > traffic on a freeway. Anyone else experienced this?
> >
> > Your thoughts about any of these would be most welcome, posted on the
> > group best, or maybe, removing the obvious, in the mailbox.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Alan
> >
> >
 
G
#4 ·
Hi Webserve!

I thought I had replied but it has disappeared. Briefly to repeat, have found my
old UK notes and apparently 40 mA is normal (as against 10 mA on my previous series
III) - so I'll just have to drive it more often. Radio was sold as a Jaguar radio
prefitted in Australia so perhaps someone local will help. Yes, puddle light as
described but it isn't the bulb. If the computer definitely not involved, must be
high resistance joint. Voltmeter (high impedance - no load) reads 12 v + OK but on
putting on load (bulb) the voltage must drop. Bulb warning message - will now check
all solder joints. Sensor. Where is this, is it easy to fix? etc....

> > Webserve
> > '88 XJ40 with 205,000 miles (330000 km)


Mine is about 244,000 KmCheers
Alan
 
G
#5 ·
As for the cutting out, I had a problem with my 92 Sovereign that was
similar. Turned out to be the connector on the fuel pump harness in the
trunk. I just cut out the connector, replaced it with crimped splice
connectors, and haven't gotten stuck in 2 years (knock on wood). Diagnosis
of this problem involved 'jiggling' the harness around in the trunk until
the fuel pump cut out.

Light bulb getting 12+, yet bulb not lighting? Did you measure continuity
with the bulb removed from the clips or in situ? Either way, sounds like a
bad bulb, maybe shorted internally.

Good luck.


<alan4spamoffd@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:4310C530.1AADBFF8@tpg.com.au...
> Hi all and greetings from Australia!
>
> I've just repurchased a jaguar XJ40 3.6L 1988 that I sold privately when
> temporarily ill, and regretted doing ever since. I see the (temporary)
> new owner was unable to solve a couple of problems I had. So, now I've
> got the car back, over to the experts for some ideas!
>
> Quiescent current.
>
> With everything off, the current drain remains at 50 mA. This is enough
> to flatten the battery unless the car is used at least once a week. Any
> ideas?
>
> Radio cassette
>
> To avoid this battery flattening, I disconnect the battery from time to
> time. This of course causes the sceurity code to activate and locks out
> the radio! I had the codes for the radio written on a scrap of paper -
> which I've now lost! I remember the actual codes (frequencies AM and
> FM) by heart, but not the sequence of kestrokes surrounding them. I
> imagine all radios have the same sequence but just different actual
> codes. So will some kind person tell me the sequence and I'll plug my
> own codes in.
>
> Puddle lamp
>
> The rear right puddle lamp (on the door) does not work. The festoon
> bulb shows continuity and the clips show a voltage of 12 + volts, yet
> still the light doesn't light up.
>
> I wonder if this could be due to the fault computer, and also explain
> why I get a continuous flashing bulb failure warning, although all the
> exterior lamps appear OK, and also maybe explain the continuous current
> drain.
>
> Cutting out
>
> Finally (for now!), very occasionally (say three times in as many years)
> the car cuts out completely. This can be alarming if in a stream of
> traffic on a freeway. Anyone else experienced this?
>
> Your thoughts about any of these would be most welcome, posted on the
> group best, or maybe, removing the obvious, in the mailbox.
>
> Thanks
> Alan
>
>
 
G
#6 ·
A couple of thoughts.
Perhaps your battery is getting a bit old. I let my '88 sit for the past
3 weeks and it started right up with no hesitation.
The radios sold as original equipment in OZ are different than the ones
sold in the US -- I believe. Ours came standard with Citizen's Band Radio
channel 19 built right in. '88 was the height of the CB radio trucker craze
in the US.
The CPS sensor is in the front of the engine and is mounted with a 5mm
Allen screw. It sits above the Crankshaft pulley atop a toothed gear. You
should be able to find the connector by the wing and then trace the wire to
the sensor. It is just below the Power Assist pump on the front of the
engine. Trace the hose from the middle of the Green reservoir to the engine
and then go down. It reads the spinning of the engine and sends a signal
to the computer to tell the plugs when to fire. You CAN NOT determine if
these sensors are good or not by taking electrical readings or resistance
readings. I keep a spare in the boot at all times -- just in case.
If worse comes to worse on the Bulb warning, you can make it go away by
simply snipping the pink/slate wire to the Bulb Warning Module. This is the
sensor and snipping it will make the computer warning system think all is
OK. Re-soldering did the trick on mine, however.
What part of OZ are you in?
Webserve



<alan4spamoffd@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:4310EDCD.9C2F503B@tpg.com.au...
> Hi Webserve!
>
> I thought I had replied but it has disappeared. Briefly to repeat, have

found my
> old UK notes and apparently 40 mA is normal (as against 10 mA on my

previous series
> III) - so I'll just have to drive it more often. Radio was sold as a

Jaguar radio
> prefitted in Australia so perhaps someone local will help. Yes, puddle

light as
> described but it isn't the bulb. If the computer definitely not involved,

must be
> high resistance joint. Voltmeter (high impedance - no load) reads 12 v +

OK but on
> putting on load (bulb) the voltage must drop. Bulb warning message - will

now check
> all solder joints. Sensor. Where is this, is it easy to fix? etc....
>
> > > Webserve
> > > '88 XJ40 with 205,000 miles (330000 km)

>
> Mine is about 244,000 KmCheers
> Alan
>
>
 
G
#7 ·
Hi Webserve

Thanks for this *very* useful info!

webserve wrote:

> A couple of thoughts.
> Perhaps your battery is getting a bit old. I let my '88 sit for the past
> 3 weeks and it started right up with no hesitation.


Yes, I originally used it about once a week for a long run. No problem. But
when I was ill I did not move the car for months. That's probably the reason.
I've found my old notes that showed that I had researched this before (I had
forgotten) and the UK advised me that 40 mA is normal for the model. It was 120
mA but I found that was due to an aftermarket alarm, which I promptly removed.
An interesting aside - a problem with digital multimeters. When I connected a
digital ammeter in line with the battery (not attempting to start the car, mind
you! other readers DO NOT TRY THIS) the readings were very erratic - in fact
unreadable. When I put in an AVO model 8 analogue meter, I could clearly see
the problem. The quiescent current was about 40 mA, as I've said, but
superimposed on that was the pulsing of the clock (a few microamps). Could
clearly see it with the analogue meter needle movement. By the way, the previous
owner (before my *first* purchase <g>) suffered from flat batteries, but with
the aid of a meter I soon found that the boot light was not going out when the
boot was closed. Fixed that by bending a bracket slightly, I think. (Or was
that on my previous series III "poverty pack" - ie no cruise control or sun roof
and pepperpot wheels?).

> The radios sold as original equipment in OZ are different than the ones
> sold in the US -- I believe. Ours came standard with Citizen's Band Radio
> channel 19 built right in. '88 was the height of the CB radio trucker craze
> in the US.


No takers in the group for this problem? All I want is the sequence of
keystrokes - I've got the codes. Is there another XJ40 newsgroup?

> The CPS sensor is in the front of the engine and is mounted with a 5mm
> Allen screw. It sits above the Crankshaft pulley atop a toothed gear. You
> should be able to find the connector by the wing and then trace the wire to
> the sensor. It is just below the Power Assist pump on the front of the
> engine. Trace the hose from the middle of the Green reservoir to the engine
> and then go down. It reads the spinning of the engine and sends a signal
> to the computer to tell the plugs when to fire. You CAN NOT determine if
> these sensors are good or not by taking electrical readings or resistance
> readings. I keep a spare in the boot at all times -- just in case.


*Very useful indeed* I'll buy one and keep it as a spare at least. Is
replacing it fairly straightforward? Another poster has also suggested a cause
of this cutting out problem, and I'll probably experiment with this.

> If worse comes to worse on the Bulb warning, you can make it go away by
> simply snipping the pink/slate wire to the Bulb Warning Module. This is the
> sensor and snipping it will make the computer warning system think all is
> OK.


Rather not do that as I think the actual warning function is very useful for
safety (the main reason why I want to get rid of the false warning). I have a
very vivid memory of being in a 420 I had (another beautiful car) and signaling
to turn right on a busy highway. The lady behind me completely ignored my
signal and tried to crowd me out. At last, with a defiant blink, I pulled
across, only to be greeted with a raucous blast of her horn. I discovered
afterwards that my right blinker bulb had blown! She was never getting the
signal! Another day, my son and a friend were leaving the house and happened to
briefly slow down after setting off, only there was no lighting of brake lamps.
Concerned for their safety I frantically signalled in their mirror for them to
stop. We found *both* brake lights had blown!

> Re-soldering did the trick on mine, however.


I'll try that.

> What part of OZ are you in?


I'm just north of Sydney, in the area known as the Northern Beaches. About to
move up to Port Stephens, just north of Newcastle. I came from the Surrey in
the UK about 25 years ago.

I really shouldn't risk owning a Jag now - being an impecunious pensioner (all
contributions gratefuly received <g>). I fact I'm hanging out for Tuesday. I
just repurchased this Jag, as I've explained, and have badgered the (short time)
owner as to why on earth he wants to sell (there's always a reason). He says
the only thing wrong is the climate control (probably electric and I'll try to
fix, or will leave windows open and put up with it!) but I'm hoping he's not
aware of some other problem which he's hiding from me. By Tuesday the cheque
will have cleared so he has no motive to conceal anything then. Then I'll ask
him again . Hoping I don't get really bad news then! Will duly report later...

Cheers
Alan
 
G
#8 ·
nobody@noplace.com wrote:

> As for the cutting out, I had a problem with my 92 Sovereign that was
> similar. Turned out to be the connector on the fuel pump harness in the
> trunk. I just cut out the connector, replaced it with crimped splice
> connectors, and haven't gotten stuck in 2 years (knock on wood). Diagnosis
> of this problem involved 'jiggling' the harness around in the trunk until
> the fuel pump cut out.


Thanks for this. I'll try it.

> Light bulb getting 12+, yet bulb not lighting? Did you measure continuity
> with the bulb removed from the clips or in situ? Either way, sounds like a
> bad bulb, maybe shorted internally.


I agree that would normally be indicated, and I'll try the bulb with a couple
of fly leads. If it's OK then we must have a high resistance (dry soldered
jojnt) and the loaf of the lamp causes a voltage drop, wheras a voltmeter
present salmost no load and there is therefore no real drop across the high
resistance

> Good luck.


Thanks. Every Jag owner needs that! But, still worth owning one I think.
Special feeling driving one - similar (but better) than a Mk II or 420. Nearly
as good as driving a Rolls. Better than an Aston Martin. As good as a Jensen
Interceptor. Much better than an MG TD. Very much better than an Austin 7
1932! (if only I'd kept all the cars I've owned - except the Rolls - that was
hired!)

Alan
 
G
#9 ·
First things first, I suppose, but the next small problem is the washer bottle
leaking, also quickly generating a fault lamp. Any experience with this one?
I'm sure I replaced it before but the problem is back and may be a fault with eg
the seal? All I remember is, the bottle comes in two parts.

Alan
 
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