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Old 09-28-2007, 17:25   #1 (permalink)
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Question 312 Rear Main Oil Seal Replacement

I'm posting this over here for someone else. 1956 T-Bird, rear main oil seal replacement in-car. I know the trans. does have to come out, the oil pan and the flywheel/flexplate has to come off but I don't know if it's a rope type or a round seal on a Y-Block.
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Old 09-28-2007, 18:04   #2 (permalink)
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Re: 312 Rear Main Oil Seal Replacement

the y block has a rope seal and due to the y block design is a very interesting job to do with the crank in place. make sure you get all the old rope out. i would recommend using a two piece neoprene rear seal due to ease of fittment. make sure you remove the seal steady pin in the bearing cap and that the seal lip faces in to the crank case if using neoprene seal. cheers
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Old 07-13-2008, 21:31   #3 (permalink)
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Re: 312 Rear Main Oil Seal Replacement

....could you refresh my memory as to the seal steady pin? Thanks...
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Old 09-21-2008, 22:35   #4 (permalink)
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Re: 312 Rear Main Oil Seal Replacement

Yes the steady pin is in rear main bearing cap. it is in the seal groove and is there to 'poke into' the rope type seal to stop it from turning in the cap.
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Old 02-21-2009, 22:54   #5 (permalink)
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Re: 312 Rear Main Oil Seal Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by tbird100636 View Post
I'm posting this over here for someone else. 1956 T-Bird, rear main oil seal replacement in-car. I know the trans. does have to come out, the oil pan and the flywheel/flexplate has to come off but I don't know if it's a rope type or a round seal on a Y-Block.
I did this many years ago without removing the auto trans. I did loosen the other main caps so the crank would drop slightly. Removing the old seal was difficult. Had to use a long small screw driver to pry it loose and a wood screw to pull it out. While you are under there, you might as well check the rod and main bearings. Good luck
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Old 02-22-2009, 15:28   #6 (permalink)
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Re: 312 Rear Main Oil Seal Replacement

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Originally Posted by sbknut View Post
I did this many years ago without removing the auto trans. I did loosen the other main caps so the crank would drop slightly. Removing the old seal was difficult. Had to use a long small screw driver to pry it loose and a wood screw to pull it out. While you are under there, you might as well check the rod and main bearings. Good luck

Hi, no need to loosesn bearing caps unless for a check. Doing this just allows for the possibility of dirt etc getting in or under a bearing shell.
Its a tricky job with the sump rails in the way but once the rear cap is out. You get a thin & long bit of wire, bend a very tight 180deg hook in one end, pull a curve in the wire, now feed the non hooked end thru the old seal in the block, if the curve you pull in the wire is of bigger radius than the seal you will not risk getting the crank surface with the wire.
Pull the wire right thru the seal then when the hooked end contacts the seal, turn the crank very slowly in the same direction as you pull the wire, the seal will feed thru very easily. Now blow the seal groove out with an air gun.
Refit new neoprene/rubber seal. Dont forget to remove the seal pin thats in the rear cap & seal the little hole with some quality sealer, (I use Ultra Blue)
Also offset the new seal about 1/4" in the cap & block in the direction of crank rotation to help avoid leaks.
Also the lip on the seal faces into the engine.

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