How to: replace the '98 Crown Victoria water pump
1/2" Drive Ratchet
1/2" Drive 6-point socket set
1/2" Drive Breaker Bar
Flat pry bar
Low profile container with at least 2 gallons capacity
Water pump (duh!)
Loosen, but do not remove the 4 bolts that hold the water pump pulley to the water pump. Note, you'll want to grip the back of the water pump pulley with your hand so it does not spin while attempting to loosen the bolts.
Remove Serpentine Belt:
Belt tensioner replacement is straight forward, first remove the serpentine belt then remove the three bolts that hold the tensioner to the engine front cover, slide old tensioner from engine and reassemble. Idler Pulley replacement is likewise straight forward, first remove serpentine belt and then remove the single bolt in the center of the pulley, slide pulley from engine and then reassemble.
To relieve tension on the serpentine belt, insert a 1/2" breaker bar into the square hole of the tensioner above the black wheel. Then twist and tension should be relieved on the serpentine belt. Once tension is relieved, slide the serpentine belt off the alternator pulley and water pump.
A couple people have mentioned that the aluminum on the tensioner is relatively weak and sometimes the square hole for the 1/2" breaker bar inadvertently becomes a round hole when attempting to relieve the tension on the serpentine belt.
Now fully remove the 4 bolts that hold the pulley to the water pump and slide the waterpump pulley off the waterpump
Place suitable low profile container under waterpump area to contain coolant that will leak out when pump is removed.
Remove the 4 bolts that hold the water pump to the engine block, then slide the old water pump out of the engine block. There are 2 metal tabs on the top of the water pump under which a flat prybar can be placed if the water pump does not want to slide out of the block easily. If using a prybar, be careful not to crack the engine front cover though.
And also make sure that when you're removing the waterpump that you remove the water pump bolts and not the front timing cover bolts by accident.
Sometimes the pump is really stuck in the engine block, and one needs to use a hammer to pound it out.
Also, the waterpump hole in the block is clean and safe to slide a new waterpump into. Sometimes, on poorly maintained cooling systems one needs to use a wire wheel attached to an electric drill to clean the area where the waterpump will mount due to excessive corrosion making the hole in the engine block smaller than it should be.
Place large O-Ring around the new water pump and slide the new pump into place. Insert and tighten 4 bolts that retain pump to engine block.
The circular hole that is drilled into the top of the water pump is the "weep hole". If coolant is leaking from this hole, it means that the internal seals of the water pump have failed and the pump should be replaced. Have seen numerous backyard mechanics attempt to stop leaks here by putting a screw or bolt in this hole. Leak from this hole is an indicator of a problem, not the cause of the problem.
Place pulley on water pump and insert retaining bolts
Relieve tension on the automatic belt tensioner and then place the serpentine belt back over all the accessories. Carefully inspect accessory pulleys to make sure that belt is aligned properly. (Pay very close attention to the alignment of the belt on the a/c compressor).
Replace coolant that leaked out during water pump replacement.
Clean any coolant that leaked onto serpentine belt off (ethylene glycol is very slippery)
Start engine and inspect for leaks.
Turn on high draw accessories such as winsheild defroster and headlights. Observe voltage guage and light brightness closely. If there is there is any coolant left on the belt, the belt will slip around the alternator pulley and the alternator will not charge as a result.
Estimated Cost of Project:
Varies depending on where you procure parts from. Discount OEM Ford parts stores such as fordpartsgiant.com will save you money on parts.