95 EL FAIRMONT - Starting to regret purchase - Page 3 - Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars
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post #21 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-27-15, 04:42 AM
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Re: 95 EL FAIRMONT - Starting to regret purchase

Did you try this:
Measure voltage at B+ terminal of the alternator if not battery voltage replace Batt fuse in engine bay.
If not battery voltage measure voltage at B+ test point S terminal on alternator; if not battery voltage replace "Batt" fuse.
If battery voltage at B+ and S, turn ignition to run position and test for voltage at terminal L of alternator. If voltage is not greater than 1 volt check wiring to alternator and globe in battery warning light and circuit between warning light and alternator. If greater than 1 volt check or replace regulator.


Regards Blue
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post #22 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-27-15, 04:45 AM
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Re: 95 EL FAIRMONT - Starting to regret purchase

And how is the battery warning light behaving noting my advice on page 1 of this thread vis:
If an alternator positive diode has shorted the battery warning light will not go on in any key position. If a negative diode has failed the battery warning light will slowly dim as engine revs increase. The slip ring can also ground - you can check by removing the plug in regulator and checking with a multimeter the resistance between the slip ring and case ; it has to be 200 ohms or more.

Regards Blue
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post #23 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-27-15, 04:52 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah done all that. I got 240 ohms n the alternator. And to check the amp drain i disconnect the negative. Put the meter on the negative lead and the neg terminal.
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post #24 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-27-15, 04:56 AM
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Re: 95 EL FAIRMONT - Starting to regret purchase

See http://randysrepairshop.net/testing-...ery-drain.html the EEC may have to time out. In any event the best way is to use a clamp on DC meter over the positive cable given it is negative earthed. e.g. http://www.altronics.com.au/p/q0966-...true-rms-600a/ or http://www.jaycar.com.au/Test-%26-Me...Meter/p/QM1566 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Portable-...item19e4221f1c etc The big advantage is you can move it along the wiring harness tracing the drain from battery to source.

Regards Blue
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post #25 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-27-15, 05:02 AM
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Re: 95 EL FAIRMONT - Starting to regret purchase

Did you see the pic on the previous page identifying the start relay and see if pulling that stops the drain?

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post #26 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-27-15, 05:37 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 95 EL FAIRMONT - Starting to regret purchase

Yeah blue, I had to take the coolant reservoir off to access those relays but yeah I did check them and the drain is still there.

I'm pretty desperate and taking the car to an auto electrician tomorrow. If that fails, its going up for sale.
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post #27 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-27-15, 05:41 AM
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Re: 95 EL FAIRMONT - Starting to regret purchase

You can access the one along side the battery as pictured without removing the coolant reservoir.

Regards Blue
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post #28 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-27-15, 05:43 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 95 EL FAIRMONT - Starting to regret purchase

Hey blue,

I did try this before and the battery light did come on but I just tried something just now in my driveway. I turned the key in all positions and it seems that my battery light is not coming up at all. So according to MU's advice, the positive diode on my alternator HAS shorted. What happens next? How can I make 100% sure that this is actually what's draining my battery?
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post #29 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-27-15, 06:25 AM
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Re: 95 EL FAIRMONT - Starting to regret purchase

Quote:
How can I make 100% sure that this is actually what's draining my battery?
Only by swapping alternators or by dismantling the alternator and checking the diode pack with the diode setting of the multimeter. But if you disconnect both wires from the alternator first (disconnect the battery first so you don't damage the alternator) and do your ammeter drain test that should tell you if it is the only or major drain point.

Also while you are at it, check the large yellow wire that goes between the alternator and battery has not gone brittle at the alternator end and frayed inside (because of the proximity to the exhaust manifold and the adjacent heat this often happens). If the wire is stiff and has discoloured insulation it will be brittle and frayed inside and will need replacing. While this won't directly cause your parasitic battery drain, it will often cause diode failure. If it needs replacing use a wire of equal or (better) greater gauge. It is best to cut it off about 10 to 15 cm from the alternator (to the point where it is flexible and normally coloured) and it's a good idea to either use two (2) hi amp Anderson connectors like this http://www.altronics.com.au/p/p7817-...-dc-connector/ or a circuit breaker like this http://www.altronics.com.au/p/s5881-...rcuit-breaker/ to join it to the old wire (and it saves having to disconnect the battery next time you need to work on the alternator) with an eyelet terminal at the alternator end. Jaycar and most car audio specialist also sell these bits.

And yes it's not unusual for the light to come and go when the diodes fail. It seems there is often enough capacitance in the system to store enough power for it to act like a small battery and power the light after engine has been off for a short time.

Regards Blue
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post #30 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-27-15, 06:42 AM
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Re: 95 EL FAIRMONT - Starting to regret purchase

BTW if it need a new alternator last time I went down that route I found Deering at Cockburn Central were the cheapest around here followed by Veale Myaree.

Regards Blue
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