I have a 2006 Ford Escape XLT 4WD, 2.3L 4 cylinder, automatic transmission.
High parasitic (no key) battery current drain. 240mA all the time.
The problem is battery dies when car isn’t used in more than a week. Not a problem if driven every day.
I measure battery current and found parasitic drain current to be 240mA or 0.24A of constant draw. The car spec on AlldataDIY is 50mA max.
I do have a remote start installed but I removed that and current only dropped about 10-15mA so not enough to matter.
I did leave the car for a couple hours thinking some of the logic circuit would drop in power over time as they fell into low power sleep modes. I didn’t happen. When you first connect battery current spike up to 1.5A and then drops to the 240mA about 30 seconds later (when radio display goes blank). It never goes low than this, even hours later.
I did find the current is on the two legs on the battery box served by fuse F19 and F21. If I pull both of these fuses the current falls to zero.
I am sure it isn’t leakage at the alternator as well. I disconnected the wire to the alternator thinking leaky diodes/rectifiers where the path of leaky current. It made no difference. There was no measureable leakage current through the alternator.
A few questions:
- Could AlldataDIY just have it wrong and the key off current really is 200-220mA for this car?
- The wiring diagrams are vague on AlldataDIY when it comes to the logic circuits. Its hard to say which lines should use how much current. Is there a way to get more detail and how my 200+ mA current should be broken down?
- The radio alone seems to be 70 mA by itself which is over the 50mA alone.
Any ideas or suggestions appreciated. Obviously this is a subtle problem because there isn’t an obvious or horrendous current drain. It’s still a problem though.