100/55W Headlight Lamps in Falcon?
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365 Posts
I did exactly that upgrade to the XE about a year ago and have had no problems whatsoever!
just beware inan ED. your headlamp reflectors are plastic, unlike the XE.
Have you tried Hella Xenon globes? same wattage (55/60w) but with a bright white light with no extra heat.
Bloody good globe especially in EF/EL & XR's.
These globes are tickford factory fit in AU series XR's.
Have you tried Hella Xenon globes? same wattage (55/60w) but with a bright white light with no extra heat.
Bloody good globe especially in EF/EL & XR's.
These globes are tickford factory fit in AU series XR's.
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6,540 Posts
Yeah dead right, these polycarbonate lamps can't cope with heat like glass can. But try the setup what i've got, 100w for high beams (there ok cause you don't use them constantly) and i've got blue parkers (theya ctually give a blue tinge with a white light).
I'll be gettin those Hella Xenon's for the H1's. At the moment i'm running those Narva All Weather they give a yellowish light, but are pretty average for on foggy weather. I be honest i can't really se any benefit in the fog.
I'll be gettin those Hella Xenon's for the H1's. At the moment i'm running those Narva All Weather they give a yellowish light, but are pretty average for on foggy weather. I be honest i can't really se any benefit in the fog.
so wait a minute, theyre a good & easy swap in the blackwood falcons? I've got an XD wagon, a mate of mine warned me off this kind of thing because the battery could run flat while i'm driving.. when i'm on the cruise with headlamps on, the volt meter on the dash says a potential difference of 12 volts is available.. but i want something to turn the night into day.. Would the older bosch relay setups be able to handle the current draw?
G
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·if your volt meter has that much of a difference as you say. may be time to check your alternator brushes (overhaul) or upgrade to higher amp output alt.....a 12 volt relay, is a 12 volt relay...it's the watts that is the key. the XD was never intended to run higher watt globes. in those day's there was fog lights. buy the lights mount them, fit the relay, your in business, keeping the relay cool is the secret to longevity. dont mount them where heat is prevalent.
I've been told that EA to ED can fit up to 90/100w with no problems if you are using FORD OE lights, the cheap replacements melt! I do know of a guy who ran upgraded wiring and 90/145w globes with the factory driving lights running 130w. He had no problems with anything until he traded into an EL and melted the lens.
Hmm, yeeah... EA-ED is okay because the lenses are glass. EF-EL are plastic so tend to yellow. Ford specificallt states 55/60 ONLY. Check out half the Sydny taxi fleet - yellowed lenses becuase the operators drop in 100s and 130s. Reflectors tend to go 'off' due to the extra heat, too. Try a set of Plus 30s ( I think) from Narva. They claim more light with no more heat or power consumption
Just pulled the 90/100w out of the suby because the alternator died and also the wiring/plugs started to fry! Also noticed the reflector floor starting to bubble. Going to try the new Phillips +50 55/60w globes. Bloke from work has them in his EF Ghia and loves them and the local Ingrams bloke reckons the're better then the Narva Artic Blues and Plus 30. I've tried the Plus 30 globes so I'll be interested to see how the Phillips perform. Of course I all so have a set of Cibies so I have a bit of light.
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16 Posts
Better lighting for AUXR
Chaps,
I've been fiddling around now for about 4 weeks trying to find the best combo for the AU light set up. I have tried the following set ups, Opti Blue/White bulbs (in H4's & H1's) (ie those blue coloured bulbs). These are crap, all they do is provide a bright white light but in practice there is absolutely no better night vision, its actually worse. From my own research on the web it appears that any coloured type bulbs reduce light despite appearing to be brighter looking right into them.
There is a difference once you get the visual feed back at night from the drivers seat.
In addition I have found the whiter the light the less refraction and you end up with a solid white type of beam that does not spread sufficiently to provide that total light coverage/vision you may be seeking.
I've tried Phillips +30's , and Bosh +30's with no apparent difference on the existing XR set up.
As mentioned I've taken some time to properly try out the different set ups (and at some cost) in order get the best possible result. Still searching.
At this point I'm waiting for a delivery of Phillip+50's (no additional wattage/heat) through Ingrams in Canberra Ph 62805255 (apparently the're in short supply-due to demand -does this say something?), and will keep this thread posted as to the result.
Be cautious about using any higher wattage above the existing set up as the AU lights appear to be polycarbonate composites and you could possibly fry/brown off the lights and glass. Even more so if you have the XR headlight protectors.
Chaps,
I've been fiddling around now for about 4 weeks trying to find the best combo for the AU light set up. I have tried the following set ups, Opti Blue/White bulbs (in H4's & H1's) (ie those blue coloured bulbs). These are crap, all they do is provide a bright white light but in practice there is absolutely no better night vision, its actually worse. From my own research on the web it appears that any coloured type bulbs reduce light despite appearing to be brighter looking right into them.
There is a difference once you get the visual feed back at night from the drivers seat.
In addition I have found the whiter the light the less refraction and you end up with a solid white type of beam that does not spread sufficiently to provide that total light coverage/vision you may be seeking.
I've tried Phillips +30's , and Bosh +30's with no apparent difference on the existing XR set up.
As mentioned I've taken some time to properly try out the different set ups (and at some cost) in order get the best possible result. Still searching.
At this point I'm waiting for a delivery of Phillip+50's (no additional wattage/heat) through Ingrams in Canberra Ph 62805255 (apparently the're in short supply-due to demand -does this say something?), and will keep this thread posted as to the result.
Be cautious about using any higher wattage above the existing set up as the AU lights appear to be polycarbonate composites and you could possibly fry/brown off the lights and glass. Even more so if you have the XR headlight protectors.
Great I forgot to order the Phillips +50 globes when I ordered the alternator from Ingrams last night. Might have to try the +30 Phillips till the others come into stock. What size are the AU XR headlights? It may be possible to fit proper glass lights that are designed for higher wattege globes. IPF does a 7" round headlight with 90/145w globes for about $160 each. Plus whatever for the upgraded loom which is a good idea anyway.
Might have to try the +30 Phillips till the others come into stock. What size are the AU XR headlights? It may be possible to fit proper glass lights that are designed for higher wattege globes. IPF does a 7" round headlight with 90/145w globes for about $160 each. Plus whatever for the upgraded loom which is a good idea anyway.
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7,777 Posts
The AU XR have Phillips Premium globes standard. That's why you won't notice a diff in putting the Plus 30s in.....
To get the best light performance, you have to have VOLTAGE at the globe. That's the secret - not watts. If you run relays with good feed from alternator you should see a full 14 volts at the globe. If you are only seeing 12 (with engine running), time to look closer! The earth side is often the problem (hint)
To get the best light performance, you have to have VOLTAGE at the globe. That's the secret - not watts. If you run relays with good feed from alternator you should see a full 14 volts at the globe. If you are only seeing 12 (with engine running), time to look closer! The earth side is often the problem (hint)
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16 Posts
AU XR headlight upgrade update!
Have upgraded my bulbs (H4's & H1's) in the AU XR to Phillips + 50's. A definite improved difference on the standard Ford (+30's). On a low beam the light is much more concentrated and brighter however with a shorter length than the standard bulbs put in by Ford. High beam the world just lights up, and this is during runs on a clear night with 3/4 moon! Specifically the reflectives on the road and marking paint really light up bright.
When comparing bulbs with standard issue, the metal insert in the +50's H4's appears to be a little longer than the +30's, which explains the reduced distance on low beam.
Have fixed this problem by raising upwards the main lights using the up/down adjustors ( at the top of the main lights towards the inside) being at the back of the lense. You can't blind oncoming traffic as if you raise it too high the high beam will be way over the actual road level, havn't had any flashes back on low beam/adverse reactions from oncoming traffic, and anyway you can clearly see the 'hood' of the low beam light being below oncoming traffic sight. Raising the lights to increase the low beam length has had no detriment to the high beam.
As an approximate measure of raising, park the car back from a wall outside of daylight by about 9 metres and raise the top of the beam (the hood) seen against the wall by no more than 15 cm's. You need to do this to ensure that you have raised both lights to an equal level from the original settings (unless you can remember how many turns you've applied to the adjustors)
Interesting in that the adjustors have a 'factory setting/groove notch' in them that you can feel when you turn them clockwise/anticlockwise which will always get you back to the original settings if you're not satisfied with the adjustments.
Anyway, I've checked out quite a few options in bulbs and now genuinely feel that I've got the right combo being an improvement on the premium factory bulbs, without paying for upgraded lights/amperage etc.
Have upgraded my bulbs (H4's & H1's) in the AU XR to Phillips + 50's. A definite improved difference on the standard Ford (+30's). On a low beam the light is much more concentrated and brighter however with a shorter length than the standard bulbs put in by Ford. High beam the world just lights up, and this is during runs on a clear night with 3/4 moon! Specifically the reflectives on the road and marking paint really light up bright.
When comparing bulbs with standard issue, the metal insert in the +50's H4's appears to be a little longer than the +30's, which explains the reduced distance on low beam.
Have fixed this problem by raising upwards the main lights using the up/down adjustors ( at the top of the main lights towards the inside) being at the back of the lense. You can't blind oncoming traffic as if you raise it too high the high beam will be way over the actual road level, havn't had any flashes back on low beam/adverse reactions from oncoming traffic, and anyway you can clearly see the 'hood' of the low beam light being below oncoming traffic sight. Raising the lights to increase the low beam length has had no detriment to the high beam.
As an approximate measure of raising, park the car back from a wall outside of daylight by about 9 metres and raise the top of the beam (the hood) seen against the wall by no more than 15 cm's. You need to do this to ensure that you have raised both lights to an equal level from the original settings (unless you can remember how many turns you've applied to the adjustors)
Interesting in that the adjustors have a 'factory setting/groove notch' in them that you can feel when you turn them clockwise/anticlockwise which will always get you back to the original settings if you're not satisfied with the adjustments.
Anyway, I've checked out quite a few options in bulbs and now genuinely feel that I've got the right combo being an improvement on the premium factory bulbs, without paying for upgraded lights/amperage etc.
Amazing what some glass beads in paint can do for night time vision..MikeAUXR6 said:
Especially with some new Reflective Raised Pavement Markers.. Anyone want any? Can sell 'em to ya cheap..
Seriously though, what was the dollar cost for the new lamps mate??
I've been using a set of Narva 90/130's in my XD for about 4 years now and only had problems with the electrics when I had another set of 100w driving lights on the front (Melted my circut breaker) now I just have the 90/130s and they run fine with the stock wiring, relay and breaker.
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