[Merlin582]

I bought this beautiful car as a driver and it has a 350 CID Chevy engine. Right after I got it I started having charging problems. It has 3 gages bolted under the dash. Temp., Volt Meter, and Oil pressure. It had a one wire alternator with a external voltage regulator on it. I bought a 10S1 3 wire 63 amp alternator used primarily in the 70s and 80s with built in regulator. I can't find anyone local that knows anything about it and have been working on it for about 3 months and am no closer that when I started. It has a black wire and red wire coming from the starter plus the battery wire going to the starter. I've been on the computer looking for so long I look like a computer. When I find something and try it, it doesn't work out. I have a new volt meter, light switch, and ignition switch. (3 wires that says bat., ign., and sol.
I also have a new battery. If anyone knows where to put the wires, I can understand exactly what you are talking about, even the big words. I'm trying to make a deal now on a flathead engine to put back in it but want to get this one ruining good first. I don't have a charge light in in now, but if it is needed let me know and where it goes. I appreciate all answers and will try them all. Thanks.

 

[jwko]

It's been a long while since I have done this so bear with me, I'm going off memory.

The lug on back of the alternator 'uses a fairly heavy wire 8 or 10ga' and goes to the big terminal on the solenoid along with the positive battery cable.

You come off the ignition switch with 'switched' 12v and will go to the #1 terminal on the top of the alternator.

The #2 prong will need a full time 12v and usually goes to the solenoid but can be jumped to the lug on the rear of alternator instead.

Failure to connect the #1 wire to a switched 12v source will result in a constant current drain and dead battery.

On your switch, Bat goes to the large lug on solenoid along with +batt cable and the wire to the alternator, Ign goes to the coil or + on Hei distributor and the sol goes to the small lug on the solenoid with the S mark.

Wire to the volt gauge will tie into the #1 switched wire.

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You can also run the wire from the batt terminal on the ignition switch and the heavier wire from the back of the alternator straight to the battery instead of the solenoid, but the other way is actually the correct routing. Either way, it will get 12v.

 

[Merlin582]

Thank you very much jwko. I am going to print this out and check it against what I have. I failed to mention, everything, bulbs and all have been changed to 12 volt. It will be a couple of days before I can check it out again, but I understand everything you said to do. Thanks.

Merlin582

 

[Merlin582]

It's been a long while since I have done this so bear with me, I'm going off memory.

The lug on back of the alternator 'uses a fairly heavy wire 8 or 10ga' and goes to the big terminal on the solenoid along with the positive battery cable.

You come off the ignition switch with 'switched' 12v and will go to the #1 terminal on the top of the alternator.

The #2 prong will need a full time 12v and usually goes to the solenoid but can be jumped to the lug on the rear of alternator instead.

Failure to connect the #1 wire to a switched 12v source will result in a constant current drain and dead battery.

On your switch, Bat goes to the large lug on solenoid along with +batt cable and the wire to the alternator, Ign goes to the coil or + on Hei distributor and the sol goes to the small lug on the solenoid with the S mark.

Wire to the volt gauge will tie into the #1 switched wire.

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You can also run the wire from the batt terminal on the ignition switch and the heavier wire from the back of the alternator straight to the battery instead of the solenoid, but the other way is actually the correct routing. Either way, it will get 12v.[/quote)



jwko, thanks. I found a diagram similar to what you said and took yours and numbered the instructions 1 through 6. I then took a red pen and drew your instructions on the diagram. The only thing I found different was I had to put a diode in line # 1. After months, everything actually works and the volt meter reads a touch above 13. I still have to put the ign switch and starter button back and hook up the heater, but that will be no problem. I can't say thanks enough.

Merlin582

 

[jwko]

Glad you got it going.