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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1970 Ford Galaxie 500 that runs good cold but will not run after it warms up. I can drive the car around cold and it's fine but after it warms up it spits and sputters like crazy. I have replaced the carburetor, points and condenser, ignition coil, spark plugs, fuel pump, voltage regulator all with no change. Seems crazy but after it's warm and you drop it into drive the car won't rev up or anything. Any help would be appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Points look just like new, the carb seems to be good. I mean it starts and idles perfect. I can feather the gas and it responds perfect until the motor is up to temp then its down hill from there. I have not yet checked the timing. Do you know what it should be for this car? Also could the distributor be causing any of this? Also the points are set at oem .17 or a business card width. Also I have adjusted the carburetor from 1/2 to 3 rounds each in 1/2 turn increments with no change other than a little backfire when i was at 3 rounds out on each. Choke works as it should. And im getting backfire more than spitting out the carburetor. Just racking my brain as to why it runs so perfect cold but like crap when it's hot.
 

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When you adjusted the carb and it backfired it would be too lean . It runs o.k when cold because you use the choke and it richens the mixture ? This is firing order for a '67 , if same as yours , might be worth double checking ?


1967 Ford Galaxy: firing order..the distributor cap
Font Circle Auto part Art Line art
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So I should adjust the carburetor screws 1/2 turn out each until it does not backfire but not enough to spit through the carburetor. And when adjusting the carburetor should i do it while in drive since yhats where my issues come from. Also I will double check the firing order as well. Thank you for your help it just racks my brain trying to figure this out. As for the points I have seen .017 and .21 would this make much of a difference to how it runs when it's warm. I'm not great with points but it's really not that hard I don't think. I set the gap when the contact was on top like always. Would the condenser cause this? I changed them both but it didn't get rid of the shutter while driving.
 

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What engine is fitted ? Never adjust a carb whilst in drive , too many accidents can happen .If a carb is spitting it's usually too lean for whatever reason . Some cars have a trans . vacuum modulator valve on outside of box and often the vacuum hose from engine to the modulator can come off or leak affecting engine and transmission .
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It's the 351W from what I can tell. VIN code H atleast that's what I have been ordering parts for and they work. What I meant by adjusting the carb in drive is making an adjustment and putting the car in drive to see the results if that makes better sense.
 

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So the firing order that works is 1,3,7,2,6,5,4,8 and I have backed the carburetor jet screws out 6 full rounds and it's no different. Is this normal
Nope , normally on most carbs if you backed a mixture screw out 6 full turns it would drop out . Dont know what carb you have now fitted / replaced , might be worthwhile stripping it down , checking it out , or overhauling as needed .
 

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Remember and remove / seal dist vac.

How to Time a Ford 351
BY ROBERT BAYLY

While technically considered a small block engine in the same family as the 289 and 302-cubic inch engines, the 351-cubic inch V-8 has a taller block, larger connecting rods and a larger crankshaft. The 351 also has a firing order of 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 as opposed to the standard 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 Ford V-8 engines. The 351 was produced from 1969 until 2001, but complete engines can still be purchased. Engine timing is accomplished in the same manner as any Ford V-8 engine.

Step 1
Locate the timing pointer attached to the timing chain cover, below the water pump on the passenger's side of the engine. The pointer sits about 1/2-inch above the harmonic balancer. Wipe it off with a shop rag.
Step 2
Find the timing marks on the harmonic balancer. If you can't see them, bump the engine over with the starter until you can see them. The marks will read "BEFORE-30-20-10-0-10-AFTER," with small lines between the numbers. The lines represent an increment of 2 degrees. Wipe the marks off with a shop rag and mark them with liquid eraser to make them easier to see.
Step 3
Disconnect the rubber vacuum advance hose from the distributor and plug it with a small screw.
Step 4
Connect an inductive timing light by clipping the red lead to the positive battery cable and the black lead to the negative battery cable. Clip the inductive pickup on the timing light over the number one spark wire. The number one wire is the first one on the driver's side of the engine.
Step 5
Use a wrench to loosen the distributor hold-down bolt. Loosen it just enough so that you can turn the distributor with some effort; otherwise, it will move by itself when you start the engine.
Step 6
Start the engine and shine the timing light down onto the timing pointer and balancer. Be careful of moving belts and the fan. The timing light will flash, or strobe, with the firing of the number one spark plug. It will make the balancer appear to be stationary. Read the number that is lined up with the timing marker. The timing specification varies slightly for different years, but the most common setting is "10-BEFORE." If adjustment is needed, turn the distributor until the 10-BEFORE is lined up with the timing marker. Your engine may have a sticker on it that states the timing specification.
Tighten the distributor hold-down bolt. Recheck the timing. Turn off the engine. Remove the timing light. Reconnect the vacuum advance hose to the distributor. Test-drive the vehicle. If it clatters or pings when you accelerate, hook the timing light back up and move the timing down to "Eight-BEFORE." Test-drive again. If it still pings, move to "Six-BEFORE."
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Either I'm blind or crazy but I cannot see any markings on the harmonic balancer. I have looked on top and on the side. Am I missing something obvious? Thanks in advance and thank you for the timing write up.
 

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Sometimes I have had to clean up the pulley with a piece of emery paper to reveal timing mark/s.If still not seeing it , remove #1 spark plug and raise piston to top on the compression stroke , dist. .should be firing on number 1 plug lead ( if not , 1/2 a turn out , turn again ) that will give you TDC ad you can mark or paint the pulley ( harmonic balancer ) . Gives you a starting setting
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So I moved the distributor around and I'm still getting sputter when you press the gas. I moved it counter clockwise but that made it worse so I moved it clock wise which seemed to initially help but again after the engine is warm it starts acting up. It is a dual vacuum distributor is there any way this could be the problem? I have worked on alot of cars but this one has me stumped. At this point the carburetor needles are out 1 1/2 turns. Idles good, in park and neutral revs perfect, just when you drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So I moved the distributor around again and it seems like I found its sweet spot but I still have the shutter when I try and accelerate. Again idle is good but once in drive it starts acting crazy. It seems to do a little better if I drop it into 1 then 2 then drive but it still shutters. I have moved the jets in and out as well but nothing has helped. The car starts better than before and I have better throttle response in park and neutral but that's all. If I floor the pedal it just bogs down and sputters. I can feather the pedal and it sometimes gets to around 35mph then that's it. I did find 1 plug wire bad but that as well made no difference in the shutter. I have solved the backfire issue when adjusting the timing.
 
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