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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a 1993 Ranger XLT from a private owner in PA, I was at his residence when I purchased it. Very nice guy.

Is this normal for a 1993 Ranger XLT with a 4.0 liter engine to run at almost 3/4 to the Hot mark? I've seen a lot of issues about this on other forums....

I just did a complete flush and clean 4 times on the radiator I then added brand new Antifreeze.... No leaks, no water in the oil crank case dipstick. No pungent exhaust smell, no smoke etc. However I found some radiator stop leak metal in the peatcock valve when I first drained it. I'm wondering if there was an original head gasket issue, and they used that head gasket sealer stuff. I Drove it 60 miles from PA to NY. No heat issues w AC on the trip. Only heat issues is when I'm in local traffic with AC on, that it does climb higher into the 3/4 range.

Any help would be appreciated.

A.P.
 

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Carry out a block test if any doubt on head gasket . That head gasket crap should only be used as a last resort or a temp fix , screws up cooling systems .Make sure engine cooling fan is kicking in
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
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Carry out a block test if any doubt on head gasket . That head gasket crap should only be used as a last resort or a temp fix , screws up cooling systems .Make sure engine cooling fan is kicking in
Can you send me info on how to do a block test? Thanks.
 

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You could buy a kit or if you have a friendly local garage they may check it for you ,



AND

 

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This is also a classic sign of a stopped up radiator or a bad fan clutch. By a stopped up radiator I mean the tubes are clogged and radiator needs rodding out or replaced. Nowadays, replacing is just as cheap if you are a diy'er.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This is also a classic sign of a stopped up radiator or a bad fan clutch. By a stopped up radiator I mean the tubes are clogged and radiator needs rodding out or replaced. Nowadays, replacing is just as cheap if you are a diy'er.
It so looked like stop leak or head gasket sealer. But I will take your advice, yes radiators are very affordable today, I agree thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My mechanic friend just informed me that the metal particles from a bad clutch or water pump can't enter the radiator.
 

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Clutch (I assume fan clutch) no but an internally corroded water pump yes it could. But if you saw some stop leak in there then I’d say that crap clogged the radiator somewhere.


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As suggested by JWKO you cant go wrong changing the radiator first before getting too deeply involved . Many a time on radiators I've replaced that were partially blocked , you could tell immediately on removing by the weight alone that they were plugged .
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Being the weather cooled down some here in NY, I'll take care of it next year. No need to bother now. However I'll monitor my temps anyways. Thanks for the input.

A.P.
 

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While your in there check the fins of the radiator and A/C condenser for debris. 25+ years of use can collect all sorts of trash and choke off the air flow.

The space between the condenser and the radiator is a favorite place for garbage to collect, too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
While your in there check the fins of the radiator and A/C condenser for debris. 25+ years of use can collect all sorts of trash and choke off the air flow.

The space between the condenser and the radiator is a favorite place for garbage to collect, too.
Thanks I'll do that also. Good idea.
 
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