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I have a 1998 Ford Explorer. The driver's side power door lock switch will only close all locks. It will not open any of the doors locks, with the engine on or off. However, if the engine is off, the remote will open all of the locks. Passenger side switch works fine, with engine on and off. I have changed the driver's side switch, and the same problem exits. I don't think it's the actuator, since it works fine, with the remote and the engine off. Any Suggestions ?
 

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kahnos said:
I have a 1998 Ford Explorer. The driver's side power door lock switch will only close all locks. It will not open any of the doors locks, with the engine on or off. However, if the engine is off, the remote will open all of the locks. Passenger side switch works fine, with engine on and off. I have changed the driver's side switch, and the same problem exits. I don't think it's the actuator, since it works fine, with the remote and the engine off. Any Suggestions ?
Hey KAHNOS,
I just purchased a '97 with exactly the same conditions and did the same as you to no avail, too.
A friend of mine is on IATN and he couldn't find any fixes.
All-D shows DS unlock module in cargo cmptmnt but I haven't got that far.
Mine will unlock from the PS and cargo.
Lets let eachother know ! Tri- City Motors
 

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If you open the driver's door, you will see a rubber boot that holds all the wiring that goes through the door. Inside that mess, you will find a broken wire that is common on that model. It may take some time to find it, but that is where the trouble is.
 

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Mullet Man said:
If you open the driver's door, you will see a rubber boot that holds all the wiring that goes through the door. Inside that mess, you will find a broken wire that is common on that model. It may take some time to find it, but that is where the trouble is.


How do i access those wires running through the boot ?
 

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i just fixed the problem as follows:

. there is a barrel between the door and frame, where the wires run through, there is a bolt on top of the barrel. loosen it. it takes awhile. the bottom part of the barrel will pull out eventually. (the bottom part is a electric conector. i don't know what you call it, but the wires are connected into the bottm part that pulls out. the wires from the door feed into the connector on top that remains attached to the door.) pull down the rubber sleeve on the bottom part, and there you will see the broken wire, pink/green for unlock and pink/yellow for lock. splice the broken wires together . not much room to work, and leave some play in the wires. reattach the bottom part to the top, and it works once again...........
 

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Thanks, Kahnos!

I have a '97 Explorer that I bought "used" in '99. I had a similar problem: The driver's side door lock switch would unlock but not lock the doors. I had, at first, been ready to replace the master control switch in the door (the one that controls the windows and doors) but after reading your post, I opened that "barrel" connector and pulled back the rubber boot and, sure enough, there lay the problem.

In my case it was pin #3 (3rd pin counting counter-clockwise in the outer-most ring of pins when viewing the female end of the connector, the one that goes into the body). The pink wire with the yellow trace was broken about an inch from the connector, as well as pin #1 (black with light blue trace).

I had to use a razor knife to cut the boot back far enough to make a proper repair (soldered in addition lenghts of wire and sealed them with heat-shrink tubing). That black/light blue wire was the reason the door open "courtesy" light on the bottom of the driver's door had stopped working.

Thanks for the insight! Now I just have to figure a good way to weather-proof the razor cut I made in the boot.
 

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wow I'm glad you brought this thread back up Walt. I have the same problem with the lock button not working on my driver's side but the unlock does work. Sounds like an all-too-common problem! Too bad it's gotten cold out, I don't have a garage and don't want to do this repair out in the cold too badly. I think I'll just continue locking and unlocking solely with the remote until spring.
 

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Thanks for the info. My door lock switch would not lock unless I started to close the door holding the switch down. It got worse to the point the door was almost closed before it would lock. It finally gave up, which means the wire is broken completely pulled apart inside the harness. I just changed out an insturment cluster light and the door switch is getting done tomorrow.
 

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I have a similiar problem (only slightly different). I have a 1998 Ford Explorer and the Keyless entry will open all doors but driver side door. The key will not unlock the door (it will not even turn). The lock will sound as if it is trying to unlock but it will not (it will only click). The only way to unlock the driver side door is to pull the handle from the inside. If the door is already unlock the door will open fine so it is not the handle. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this and is this a common problem with this make/model?

Thank you in advance for any suggestions.

Joe
 

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Joe,

It sounds like a mechanical problem. I think the key lock, the inside door button (that pops up and down) and the electrical solenoid are all tied together mechanically at the same point on the latch mechanism. So best advice is to remove the inside door trim panel and visually inspect the latch and the various linkage rods that connect to it from the key, the up/down button and the solenoid.

Disconnect the links one by one and try locking the door with the ones that are still connected. If after disconnecting all links from the lock/unlock lever on the latch mechanism you still cannot even move the lever, your latch mechanism is bound up or broken.

Good luck,
Walt
 

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Hey all, I have a similar problem. I have a 98 Explorer as well. Neither of the front two switches will lock the doors. The key fob also will not lock the doors (but if I click lock twice the horn will beep like it usually does). Unlock works fine on all of the switches. I have found that the switch in the cargo area works normally. So could this broke wire issue affect both door switches and the key fob?
 

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I have a similiar problem (only slightly different). I have a 1998 Ford Explorer and the Keyless entry will open all doors but driver side door. The key will not unlock the door (it will not even turn). The lock will sound as if it is trying to unlock but it will not (it will only click). The only way to unlock the driver side door is to pull the handle from the inside. If the door is already unlock the door will open fine so it is not the handle.
I started having this same problem about a year ago during the winter. The lock on my driver's side door will not move up or down when it is below freezing but as soon as the truck is warmed up enough, the lock will work ok. I have tried to search for solutions on it but can not determine if I have a solenoid or an actuator and whether or not I need to replace it. I would appreciate any info on this. Thanks!
 

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***ONE OTHER SOLUTION***

I had a similar lock problem on my Ford Explorer 2000. I checked for the broken wire/s in the boot on the drivers door, but all looked good. The power locks would open, but not close. Originally, the locks would try to close and they couldn't (almost like there wasn't enough power to close them) so the relay would keep trying over and over and drain my battery. I found that when I tried using the 'lock-all-doors' button, none of the doors would lock, but there was a 'click' from the back of the truck. I looked in the compartment in the drivers side in the back where the jack is stored and I found two boxes that appear to hold two sets of relays. the clicking was coming from the box the is furthest to the rear. You need a star type screw driver to remove this box (two screws) so you can remove the cover and see the four relay modules. Two relays are about 1" x1" and two are a little smaller. After swapping relays around I realized that if I swapped the larger relays around, my problem would reverse. In other words, the locks would now close, but not open. I bought a replacement replay and tried replacing one a at time and BINGO, it solved the problem. Only took me a year to figure it out. ;) The part number on that relay is FOAB 14B192-AA and cost about $12.

Thanks to the previous posters for getting me on the right path.
 

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I have a 2000 Explorer eddie bauer with the similar problem.

The doors will LOCK from the rear cargo lock only. NOT the doors, keyfob or keypad on the drivers door.. However, they will unlock from all locations.

In taking apart my door panel and looking at wires, I found the damaged wire, which wasn't really damaged. I traced power and ground for both lock and unlock from the switch to the barrel plug in the door.. Wires are all good.

What I have found, is the unlock side has just shy of 12V running to it which I would expect, however, the LOCK side of it, only has about 4 volts to it, which I suspect should be my 12V as well.

I've done the relay swap as mentioned as well, with no luck.

I'm quite interested to get this working, as for an 11 year old truck with 204K miles on it, this is the only item not working on the vehicle, otherwise, she's in mint condition.

Anyone have ideas?

Thanks, Tim
 

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I am having a similar problem with my 98 explorer... Except mine won't unlock on the passenger side. How do I get the door open???? I have the panel almost all the way off and can see what I'm doing. I justdont know what to do... Help
 

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Can you manually unlock it? Is it the rear or front? Do you hear the power lock solenoid click in either direction?
 

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It is the frOnt passenger door. And no I cannot unlock it manually. Not even with the key from the outside... When u hit the lock or unlock button it seem tO work... It just doesn't do enough to unlock it past the final half it needs to go...
I currently have semi-removed the interior panel on the door and can see what's going on... I just can't get the lock to actually release. It's like the solenoid is frozen.. Is there a way to bypass it? Or just simply remove it?
 

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I doubt if it's the lock solenoid. There's probably a problem in the latch assembly and you'll have to remove the panel to get at it.
 
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