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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello from Louisiana y'all
I have a 2000 Crown Vic LX 4.6 L Windsor
Recently the intake manifold cracked and of course blew coolant everywhere
It actually cracked at the fitting where the coolant temp sensor was, yes I said was. It blew the sensor out of the fitting.
Of course I pulled the old manifold off and replaced it
Fairly simple and straightforward right?
Now, the engine was running before the intake replacement.
Now, with the new intake and various other items, thermostat, upper radiator hose, and spark plugs, all of which it needed anyway, it will not start.
First obvious check, fuel pressure. Bingo right at 35 PSI
Next, code check, No codes
Next, spark, no spark, power at the coil leads
Next, injector pulse, No pulse, power at the injector leads
First thought, crankshaft position sensor, Just put a new one in, not without much agony and colorful expressions.
Still no start, no pulse, no trigger voltage at the coils.
Scan for crankshaft position sensor RPM when cranking. The ECU is getting a signal from the sensor.
All fuses and relays appear to be operating as expected, either by testing with a test light or by swapping known working relays.
Still no start.

If anyone has any suggestions on where to go next, PLEASE let me know.
Thank y'all so much
Chris Ellington
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks again Dave
Ongoing saga on the Vic
Put the plate and bracket on the back of the head
No change
I can hear a popping sound when trying to start it
Almost like it’s out of time
It’ll pop and almost start then not start
Put the scanner on and getting a signal from the crankshaft sensor reading between 200-500 RPM while cranking
Camshaft position sensor claims there is no fault
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry for not being clear
The car is assembled just like it was before it stopped running
Still no start but it does try to start
It pops something like old school engines when the timing chain is stretched
I even smell gas after cranking
 

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Try cycling the fuel pump a few times...turn the key "on" without cranking, wait 3 seconds, and turn "off."
Repeat this 2 more times, then on the 3rd time, try starting it. Could have air in the lines and this might help to prime it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
morning Dave
I’ve got fuel at the rail
I’m beginning to think that the ecu is dead
I recall Mama saying that once in a while she would crank it up and it wouldn’t start until the second or third attempt
After that it would start up and run fine
Sometimes it would pop when it started
It was doing this before the intake cracked
 

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Maybe wiggle wires at the PCM/ECM while cranking, Also could still be a bum relay or corrosion issues at the fuse/relay block in the engine compartment.
Might be PCM. Just throwing suggestions here. Main point being: ALL connections between the PCM and coils should be checked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks Dave
I thought about a relay and switched the ECM and A/C relay
I have power to all the coils
I even have power through the coils
Key on power at the main lead into the coils
Even had a light on with the coils plugged in and probing the trigger wire
 

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Power to coils and injectors but no trigger for the coils indicates either crank position circuit fault or PCM circuit fault.
Given what you've done, I'd look at these areas, maybe checking the connector to the Crank Position Sensor even though you replaced it, check that connector anyways and make sure it has good contact as it seems to be a somewhat common issue in those models.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hi Dave
I managed to at least check the crank sensor connection
It’s all good
Still getting 250-500 RPM when cranking
Kind of tells me that the ecm is getting a signal from the crank sensor
Possible cam sensor?
It’s really looking like a dead computer
 
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