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7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a 2000 F350 5.4L Single Rear Wheel last week. Drove it 2 hours home. Truck ran fine the whole way. 2 days later, drove it to get the tag and it started missing/skipping after about 7 or 8 miles of driving. Left it idling while in the tag office, drove it home, continued to skip/miss.
5 or 6 hours later, cranked the truck, it idled fine, drove it about 4 miles, it started missing/skipping again. Drove it back home, washed it (exterior, nothing under the hood), moved it around a few times while washing it in the yard and had it idling (15 or 20 minutes) while I cleaned on the inside. Parked it.
Tried to crank it tonight (been sitting for 3 full days), and it would not start. The engine turns over but will not run.
I swapped a the PCM relay with another like relay in the power distribution box under the hood. Checked a few of the other fuses that were associated with the PCM and fuel pump. They were good, checked with continuity meter, not just the eye.
Depressed needle valve on the fuel rail and fuel there.
The check engine light has not come on during any of this. The check engine light does work, it illuminates when first turning the ignition switch on.
Truck has 151,000 miles. I have no knowledge of prior ownership/maintenance. I am supposedly the third owner. The guy I bought it from stated he bought it 6 years ago and put 7,000 miles on it. I feel like he was telling the truth and was honest on the deal, I'm not sure that he knew the truck had problems, and it may not have had problems until I bought it.
Any suggestions on where to start? Coils are all Motorcraft brand, don't know if they are original or just original replacement equipment. If it is material, the weather when the skip/miss was first detected was rainy/misting and kinda warm (around 70 degrees F). Now it is like 45 degrees and dry.

7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Update: Mechanic got truck running and into shop with a shot of carb/intake cleaner in the air intake. Had a code for #5 cylinder misfire/coil. Replaced that coil, new plugs in every hole, and boots to match, and a fuel filter.
Drove the truck 300 miles (round trip) out of town. Stay parked for over 24 hours without being ran. Cranked and ran every time while out of town including stopping for fuel and other various things. Performed without a hitch.
Bring it back home, the temp drops from like 75 to 23 (Alabama), truck will not start again. It just cranks and cranks but never starts. The last time that it did this, it dropped off in the 40’s. There is something about the cold that won’t let this truck crank.
Also noteworthy in my opinion, the fuel gauge is not consistent. I filled it up about 75 miles ago, and it is still showing past full, but next time it may read more accurate. From my research, the fuel pump and sending unit are independent in operation and no matter if the fuel gauge is reading correctly or not, the truck runs fine (when running).
Any thoughts? Fuel Pump, Idle Air Control, Cylinder Head Temp Sensor? Any test procedures for these sensors?


7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update: Bought a fuel pressure gauge. Truck has 40 psi on the injector rail. Also, got under the truck, the pump is priming every time the ignition switch is turned to "on". Cranked on it and it would not start. Sprayed carb/intake cleaner into the butterfly valve, got it to run... for 4 seconds, then it would stop as if it had no fuel. Try it again, same thing. It continued to do this off of one shot of carb spray. The engine would respond to the throttle during 4 second runs if the throttle was depressed. It would turn some serious RPM if the throttle was depressed to the floor (wife aint too savvy on patting the throttle).
Decided to button everything up and report my findings, so I put the air tube back on at the butterfly valve via the big screw clamp. For good measure, I gave the power distribution center (picture 1 below) a wrap with the handle of a screwdriver and I also wiggled the big mass of wires (picture 2 below) that plug together on the front left of the engine.
In a last ditch effort, I tried it once again, it cranked, surpassed the 4 seconds of idle and continued to idle for 30 minutes or so (until I turned it off).
Based on the results the fuel gauge provided, and me being able to physically crawl under the truck and hear the pump prime every time the switch was turned on, I feel that the fuel pump is not my problem.
I had done multiple 4 second runs with the truck dying. I don't know if these actions had generated enough heat to get some sensor to working or if the truck just decided to finally run, or if the wire wiggling and screwdriver tap made up a connection somewhere. Thoughts?

Any thoughts?
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Super Moderator
1,674 Posts
Most likely a loose connection or relay. It sounds like the injectors aren’t firing for whatever reason.

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Super Moderator
23,445 Posts
There are a few fuses related to fuel and ignition that might be worth checking , and make sure are fitting securely if o.k

Ford F-350 (1999 – 2001) – fuse box diagram
Year of production: 1999, 2000, 2001

Passenger Compartment Fuse Box
The fuse panel is located below and to the left of the steering wheel by the brake pedal.

Ford F-250 - fuse box diagram - passenger compartmentFord F-350 – fuse box diagram – passenger compartment
NumberAmpere rating [A]Description
120Turn/Hazard Lamps
251999: Instrument Cluster, Power train Control Module (PCM) Keep Alive Memory
102000: Airbag Module
320Cigar Lighter, Data Link Connector
410Glove Box Lamp, Map Lamps, Power Mirrors, Underhood Lamp
75Power Window/Lock Switch Illumination
85Radio, Headlamp Switch Illumination, Remote Anti-Theft Personality (RAP) Module (1998)
10152000-2001: Dual Fuel Tanks
1130Wiper Motor, Wiper Run/Park Relay Coil, Wiper Hi/LO Relay Coil, Washer Pump Relay Coi
1320Stop Lamps, Center High-mount Stop Lamp, Trailer Tow Stop Lamp, Speed Control
1410Dome Lamp, Cargo Lamp, Courtesy Lamps, Running Board Lamps
1551999: Generic Electronic Module (GEM), Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) Module, Brake Shift Interlock, Speed Control
2000-2001: Stop Lamp Switch (Logic): Generic Electronic Module (GEM), Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Four Wheel Anti-lock Brake System (4WABS) Module, Brake Shift Interlock, Cluster and PCM Keep Alive Memory
1615Instrument Cluster, Hi-beam Headlamps
1852001: Audio
1910Auxiliary Powertrain Control Module (APCM) (Diesel only), Instrument Cluster, GEM Module, Overdrive Cancel Switch, Idle Validation Switch (Diesel only), Overhead Console, Diesel PCM via Clutch
2015Starter Motor Relay Coil, Clutch Switch
2210Air Bag Module (2000-2001), Passenger Air Bag Activation/Deactivation Switch, Blower Motor Relay Coil
23101999: Electronic Flasher
2001: Air Bag Module
24101999: Blend Door Actuator, Trailer Tow Battery Charge Relay Coil
2000-2001: A/C Clutch, Blend Door Actuator, Trailer Tow Batteiy Charge Relay Coil, Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS), Turn Signal
2551999: 4 Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Module
2710Ignition Run Power Feed (Customer Access)
2815Brake Shift Interlock, DRL Relay Coil, Speed Control Module, Backup Lamps, Trailer Tow Backup Lamp Relay Coil, Electronic Shift On The Fly Hub Lock Solenoid, Vacuum Pump Motor
295Instrument Cluster (Charge and Airbag Warning Lamps)
3030PCM Relay Coil, Ignition Coil (Gasoline only), Fuel Heater (Diesel only), Wastegate Solenoid (Diesel only), Injector Driver Module Relay Coil (Diesel only)
3152001: Fog Lamp Switch
R1Interior Lamp
R4Power Window One Touch Down
Engine Compartment Fuse Box
Ford F-250 - fuse box diagram - engine compartmentFord F-350 – fuse box diagram – engine compartment
NumberAmpere rating [A]Description
17,51998: Trailer Tow Left Stop/Turn Lamp
2101999: Air Bag Module
2000-2001: Washer Pump
37,5Trailer Tow Right Stop/Turn Lamp
420Trailer Tow Backup Lamps, Trailer Tow Park Lamps
520Gasoline: PCM, Fuel Pump Relay Coil, Mass Air Flow Sensor, Fuel Injectors
5Diesel: Dual Alternator “A” Field
610Gasoline: A/C (CASS)
Diesel: Single or Dual Alternator “A” Field, Regulator
720Gasoline: Vapor Management Valve, HEGO Sensors, Intake Manifold Communication Control, EVR Solenoid, PCM, Canister Vent Solenoid
5Diesel: Dual Alternator “A” Field
815Trailer Tow Electronic Brake Illumination, Park Lamps, Trailer Tow Park Lamp Relay Coil
910Left Headlamp (Low Beam)
10251999: Power Point
202000-2001: Power Point
1110Right Headlamp (Low Beam)
12101999: Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) Resistor
152000-2001: Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) Resistor, Fog Lamps
1330Multi-function Switch, Headlamps
1460Anti-Lock Brake System
15301999: Windshield Wiper Motor
2001: Heated Seats
1630Trailer Tow Battery Charge
1730Electronic Shift On The Fly Relay, Transfer Case Shift Motor
1830Power Seat, Adjustable Pedals (2001)
1920Fuel Pump Motor, PCM
2050Ignition Switch (B4 & B5)
2150Ignition Switch (B1 & B3)
2250Junction Box Fuse/Relay Panel Battery Feed
2340Blower Motor
24301999: Power Distribution Box
PCM Power
PCM Power
2530Power Windows
2620If equipped with Remote Keyless Entry-Driver Door Unlock Relay Coil, All Door Unlock Relay Coil, All Door Lock Relay Coil, Park Lamp Flash Relay, If not equipped with Remote Keyless Entry-Power Door Lock Motors
2730Diesel: Injector Driver Module
2830Trailer Tow Electronic Brake Controller
36A/C Clutch
30PCM Power
31Blower Motor
Gasoline: Two Speed Fuel Pump
Gasoline: A/C CASS
Diesel: Injector Driver Module Power
33Washer Pump
34Windshield Wiper Park/Run
35Windshield Wiper HI/LO
38Trailer Tow Backup Lamp
39Trailer Tow Battery Charge
40Electronic Shift On The Fly #1
41Electronic Shift On The Fly #2
WARNING: Terminal and harness assignments for individual connectors will vary depending on vehicle equipment level, model, and market.

7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well my saga continues. The truck ran flawlessly from January until March 20th. I had drove it the previous day, went to get in it that morning, crank but no start. Had to get to where i was going, took another vehicle. Came back 4 hours later, cranked right up. Truck continued to run fine until March 31. Had driven it the previous day, ran fine. Got in on March 31, crank no start. Hit it with carb cleaner, got it to run for the 4 seconds. Kept trying now it will either do a 4 second run or longer, like 30 seconds. Responds to accelerator while running then dies. Fuel pump is running. Keeping 40 psi on the rail. Fuel filter was replaced at new years as well as plugs. No check engine light or codes.
Any help would be appreciated.
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