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Yes; disconnect the power steering lines first. As for ring compressor I have several different types and find these wrinkle band type work well Amazon.com: AMPRO T75524 Wrinkle Band Ring Compressor : Automotive or Wrinkle Band Ring Compressor T&E Tools 4220 9322159024500 | eBay Use a self tightening pipe wrench tool like this or similar on the rounded off bolt 6pc-pk Quick Release Self Adjustable Pipe Wrench Super Shifter Option: 8"/10" | eBay But make sure you have a new replacement plug. Better probably a suitably sized Irwin boltgrip from Bunnings Irwin Bolt-Grip 6pc Impact Twist Socket Extractor Set 1/4" to 1/2" #1859143 | eBay or Irwin Bolt-Grip 6pc Impact Twist Socket Extractor Set 1/4" to 1/2" #1859143 | eBay or https://www.amazon.com.au/Irwin-Tools-Fastener-Remover-Expansion/dp/B000QW6K8I or this similar tool ToolPRO Bolt Extractor Socket Set 1/2" Drive 7 Piece or ToolPRO Bolt Extractor Socket Set 9 Piece
 

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They'll be fine that fairly normal for old blocks and heads; just make sure you use a quality head gasket. The scoring in the top of the cylinder would concern me more; I assume you will hone them to the required cross-hatch pattern after first removing any ridges at the top of the bores with a ridge reamer.
 

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The Lisle Ridge Reamers on ebay and at various auto stores work well. Repco ( https://www.repco.com.au/en/tools-equipment/automotive-tools/engine-drivetrain/repco-engine-cylinder-hone-60-175mm-rst142/p/A9417629?kwSearch=cylinder hone) and Supercheap (Toolpro - ToolPRO Engine Cylinder Hone Large ) sell their brand cylinder hones that work fine (Lisle also have them e.g. Lisle Stone Type Glaze Breaker Cylinder Honing Tool for 2-7" Dia Cylinders 23500 | eBay ). The T& E ball type (also available from Supercheap) e.g. Flexible Ball Cylinder Hone 180 Grit 3"- 2.3/4" (76mm - 70mm) T&E Tools FBH103-1 | eBay might also easier to use for the inexperienced. You will also finf lots of excellent You Tube video tutorials on honing a ridge reaming cylinders; watch a wide selection. You can also use a laser pointer aimed from the edge of the head and block do it creates a line across the surfaces as an alternative to a etal straight edge; the laser line will be discontinuous where it's not totally flat. It's also often easier to use in terms of access too.
 

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I think you can do it yourself. The first time I did mine I had no prior experience and there was no such think as You Tube. The recommenced rings will be fine. But if you are being offered a good deal to have it done and it is all the work comes with a warranty (there will be a limited implied one under consumer law anyway) that's the safest option and worth considering.
 

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You should use a hydraulic press and a suitable sized drift or punch per figure 54 in section 8-2-33 in the factory workshop manual to remove the pins from the pistons. Given this is your first time doing a full engine strip down and rebuild can, I recommend you get hold of a copy of Tom Monroe's "Engine Builder's Handbook". (HPBooks 1245) as it covers most of the things the Ford Workshop manuals assume you already know. The Haynes Techbook 1763 "Ford Engine Overhaul Manual" is not bad also but I think Tom Monroes' is the better of the two books. Yes; you need to remove both those items; being the knock sensor and the bit that blanks of the redundant distributor drive hole with the also redundant distributor hold down clamp ( the block is essentially the same as the earlier E series that ran distributors so they had to blank the distributor drive off but I thing the oil pump drive shaft is there still. Ditto with the oil pump and any other sensors and pressure switches etc as the machine shop will want a completely naked block.
 

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The synchronizee can go back in at any point; there is no engine timing involved with it. Even in those older models where there was a cam position sensor involved, positioning is not critical. Same as here for a V8
Note that he amended this from this one after I and several others pointed out he was wrong and positioning was not critical. In fact the engine does not even need to be at TDC when it's inserted. Basically it's just a "dummy distributor" to provide the only bit of the redundant distributor still required; the oil pump drive.
 

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Head Bolts specs per Page 8-2-25 Figure 43 in the factory workshop manual:

a) Initial rundown toque of 90Nm in sequence (circular pattern center out)
b) Back off just enough to unseat washer head
c) Retorque to 30Nm in sequence
d) Tighten another 120 degrees

They are torque to yield bolts that stretch when tightened to spec so you must use new bolts.


The two types of oil pump bolts bolts have parts numbers and I suspect were the same in earlier (EA to EL) and perhaps even later B series models so Ford should be able to still supply.
 

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Don't know as the only one show in the workshop manual per pic below is the one that goes in the central hole where pickup bolts to the pump. Similarly that seems to be the only one in the parts catalogue microfiche (pic also below) for the earlier EF and EL models. There are no micrifiche for AU parts as the moved to a centarl online parts catalogue syatem with the AU. Do the AU parts numbers match the EF/EL ones; if so perhpas it's the redundant CJ 6626 AA mentioned there.
Gesture Font Gas Human leg Diagram
Font Material property Parallel Pattern Engineering
 

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You can leave it out or use a self-adhesive fireproof pad type such as dyna-mat to replace it. You will notice the extra cabin noise if you leave it out and some of the vacuum hoses and wiring that is usually hidden behind it will deteriorate over time from the radiant engine bay heat that it will now be exposed to.
 

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No that water pump gasket cannot be replaced; you have to reuse it as is or buy a new pump. But if it wasn't leaking and its bearing and impeller are in good order it should be reusable.
 

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Power steering pump to water pump brace,
Organism Font Auto part Parallel Diagram



I made a mistake. I forgot to put covers over the petrol lines and vacuum line. A small amount of water might have went in, when I was cleaning. Any ideas on that?
Should be OK if left to dry for 24 hours and shaken to throw any water out.

If i use firewall material, what would be the best glue to use?
Get the self adhesive stuff and avoid having to make a choice.
 
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