[Aussiblue]

You need a perfectly flat bench, a set of V blocks (or inverted journal caps) and a dial indicator to check the camshaft out of the car.

i.e.

and

You can also check it in the head with camshaft journal caps and valves and valves springs removed by rotating it in very well oiled journals and checking for runout with a dial gauge. Check at all 7 journals.

If it is a bent camshaft, as I now suspect, I should have picked it up earlier from the binding you had described. However, it's rare for a camshaft to bend when a timing chain breaks without there being other more obvious damage like bent connecting rods, cracked or broken camshaft journals or pulled camshaft journal bolts (I have never seen a bent one without more obvious and catastrophic accompanying damage. It's covered in the testing on page 25 of the Max Ellery manual but it's not a mandatory engine assembly test even in the Ford factory workshop manual. Perhaps a camshaft journal is loose or a bolt pulled and the noise you can hear is the damaged or loose journal moving.

 

[Louisa23]

!. They were the stock ones that came in the rebuild kit. And yes it was confirmed that it was for my ford .
No, I didn't use plastigauge or flexigauge as I spoke to the engine rebuild guy and because I couldn't find any here, he said it would be ok without it.
3. It was checked and assembled at the engine workshop, lubed and wrapped in plastic.
4. The machine shop put in a new cam.
I have oil sitting there at the moment. Ill check for metal particles and let you know.
Thanks

 

[Louisa23]

I'm going to check the cam first.
My next question is...
Is it possible I timed the crankshaft on exhaust instead of compression. If so, does that mean cam chain cover off, 1 full revolution of the crankshaft, to TDC and then retime?
I don't know why, its been in the back of my mind, for some time, now

 

[Aussiblue]

s it possible I timed the crankshaft on exhaust instead of compression. If so, does that mean cam chain cover off, 1 full revolution of the crankshaft, to TDC and then retime?

Yes, it is very possible but I still think it's more likely a bent camshaft. Can you see any motion from the camshaft journal caps or their retaining bolts.

No, I didn't use plastigauge or flexigauge as I spoke to the engine rebuild guy and because I couldn't find any here, he said it would be ok without it.

I don't think that was good advice; in fact I believe it is very bad advice. Find me one workshop manual or similar printed guide that doesn't prescribe it. I would never put an engine back together without doing that; especially one this old. If you have a local Repco they would have been able to supply it per https://www.repco.com.au/en/search/?text=Plastigauge even if they had to get it in. I would also have though any reputable engine building shop would have it plenty on hand and be willing to sell a few short pieces of each of the 4 common colours (red, green, blue and yellow) to you

The machine shop put in a new cam.

New or used? What brand? I guess though, if it turns out to be bent at least they should replace it free.

 

[Louisa23]

Yes, it is very possible but I still think it's more likely a bent camshaft. Can you see any motion from the camshaft journal caps or their retaining bolts.



I don't think that was good advice; in fact I believe it is very bad advice. Find me one workshop manual or similar printed guide that doesn't prescribe it. I would never put an engine back together without doing that; especially one this old. If you have a local Repco they would have been able to supply it per https://www.repco.com.au/en/search/?text=Plastigauge even if they had to get it in. I would also have though any reputable engine building shop would have it plenty on hand and be willing to sell a few short pieces of each of the 4 common colours (red, green, blue and yellow) to you



New or used? What brand? I guess though, if it turns out to be bent at least they should replace it free.

I know, Ive kicked myself a hundred times for not using the plastigauge.
No3 cylinder, when turned over by hand, sounds like a spring clicking sound. I felt it and cant see any damage? On every revolution, it clicks there. Ive looked at the valve as good as I can without taking it out. It all appears ok. It seats good.

 

[Louisa23]

I'm in two minds about sending it to the machine shop as it can be resurfaced as well, or do it myself, by pulling everything apart which is more fun.
So far, no metal in the oil. I'm redraining it again, now.

 

[Aussiblue]

Do it yourself; you are certainly more than capable and it will be more rewarding and satisfying.

 

[Louisa23]

Do it yourself; you are certainly more than capable and it will be more rewarding and satisfying.

I used a dial indicator to check the camshaft while it was still seated in the head. No movement.
No6 exhaust valve is badly bent. It has hit the top of the piston. very lucky only minor damage.
No1 piston has minor damage, too.The rest of the valves appear ok. For them two things to happen, I was 180 out on exhaust stroke as the cam pin was lined up
Is this correct?

 

[Aussiblue]

I used a dial indicator to check the camshaft while it was still seated in the head. No movement.
No6 exhaust valve is badly bent. It has hit the top of the piston. very lucky only minor damage.
No1 piston has minor damage, too.The rest of the valves appear ok. For them two things to happen, I was 180 out on exhaust stroke as the cam pin was lined up
Is this correct?

Most likely. EDIT: Although if it is exactly 180 degrees out it should not run and there should be no damage. More likely you were something like 90 degrees out.

 

[Louisa23]

Now Ive cleaned the pistons, Theyve all been hit. Thnaks to your advice, I stopped running the engine and avoided more damage. All the valves except No6, are seated properly. Should I take all the valves out and check them, anyway?

 

[Aussiblue]

Yes you need to check them all and also check the camshaft again with them out. And definitely use a degree wheel next time you set the timing chain up.

 

[Aussiblue]

Note the firing order is 153624. So when #1 piston is at TDC , #6 piston is also at TDC. When #1 cylinder is firing on the combustion stroke when both valves are closed while #6 cylinder valves will be rocking the exhaust valve and will be almost closed as the intake will be starting to open. This will be TDC #6 starting the intake stroke. #5 will be TDC at the same time as #2. #5 cylinder fires as #2 rocks. #3 fires as #4 rocks. #6 fires (valves closed) as #1 is rocking. #2 fires (valves closed) as #5 valves are rocking TDC exhaust. #4 fires while #3 rocks.

And from the Haynes manual for the AU:

But of course this only works if the camshaft and crankshaft have not been rotated independently of each other. You need to to do the timing wheel thing for the crankshaft then rotate the camshaft until the valves are in the correct position with all the alignment in the correct place before putting the timing chain back on

 

[Aussiblue]

You'll also need to check the valve seats 9that should be obvious if they are) and guides have not damaged by the bent valve stems per

 

[Louisa23]

Yes you need to check them all and also check the camshaft again with them out. And definitely use a degree wheel next time you set the timing chain up.

ok, this is the part, I don't understand.
To use the degree wheel, I have to have the head on?
Now my problem with that is, if the head is on and i put the timing chain cover on then, I'm gonna rip rubber seals to pieces!

 

[Aussiblue]

Good point, I guess in that case you can only use the timing wheel with the engine on the stand and the head on and sump off so you can insert the cover from the sump end. But lets not go there yet. If you align all the timing marks and check the valves are doing what they are ment to be doing at TDC it should be all OK

Another question though, when you installed the harmonic balancer I assume you also correctly installed the little half moon Woodruff key that ensures the balancer is correctly aligned with the crankshaft and can't rotate independently of it? And the key wasn't bent or partially broken or install upside down? If the harmonic balancer was able to turn on the crankshaft all that timing alignment would be out the window. Similarly the camshaft pin was aligned with the locating hole on its sprocket (that would near impossible not to do unless that pin you couldn't find a home for was from the camshaft). Also it was an inline six not a V8 balancer (check the part number) wasn't it ? These questions may sound inane but... Also use that dial indicator to check the piston to deck height with each piston to ensure there are no bent connecting rods.

 

[Louisa23]

Good point, I guess in that case you can only use the timing wheel with the engine on the stand and the head on and sump off so you can insert the cover from the sump end. But lets not go there yet. If you align all the timing marks and check the valves are doing what they are meant to be doing at TDC it should be all OK

Another question though, when you installed the harmonic balancer I assume you also correctly installed the little half moon Woodruff key that ensures the balancer is correctly aligned with the crankshaft and can't rotate independently of it? And the key wasn't bent or partially broken or install upside down? If the harmonic balancer was able to turn on the crankshaft all that timing alignment would be out the window. Similarly the camshaft pin was aligned with the locating hole on its sprocket (that would near impossible not to do unless that pin you couldn't find a home for was from the camshaft). Also it was an inline six not a V8 balancer (check the part number) wasn't it ? These questions may sound inane but... Also use that dial indicator to check the piston to deck height with each piston to ensure there are no bent connecting rods.

All that is fine.
I'll use a straight edge to check the piston height, top and bottom.
Since the head is already off, should I rotate the engine to TDC again and then retime it. Or will the camshaft dictate the compression stroke at TDC?
Thank you for your help, You've taught me a lot.

 

[Aussiblue]

Yes rotate the engine to TDC again.

 

[Louisa23]

Yes rotate the engine to TDC again.

It was firing on the exhaust stroke all good now.
https://youtube.com/shorts/AdeCWKF7

 

[Aussiblue]

It's good you finally sorted it. Pity that wasted spark system allows it to fire on the exhaust stroke though.

 

[Aussiblue]

I suppose you don't know how to full your spare time now.😁😁