[Louisa23]

I suppose you don't know how to full your spare time now.😁😁

Yeah, now I have my Mazda to play with
(and the Ford needs a new steering rack)

 

[Aussiblue]

What model Mazda? i'm also on a few Mazda 3 forums as my son has one.

 

[Louisa23]

What model Mazda? i'm also on a few Mazda 3 forums as my son has one.

2008 Mazda 6 GH luxury sports 2.5l
(with annoying electric power steering)

Thanks for everything

 

[Aussiblue]

My son has a Mazda 3SP 2.5 so some similarities I guess

 

[Louisa23]

Don't worry
This car is jinxed
First I lost power from the automatic transmission. I fixed that.
I still have a lot of carbon to the top of the pistons and spark plugs.
It can be so many things...Where do I start?
Now I have access to the book.

 

[Aussiblue]

Given recent history one might suspect worn valve stems and valve guides. See Valve Guide Wear - Can Cause Other Major Damage, Besides Burning Oil etc.

 

[Louisa23]

Given recent history one might suspect worn valve stems and valve guides. See Valve Guide Wear - Can Cause Other Major Damage, Besides Burning Oil etc.

ok, the compression is good 175psi per cylinder That makes me believe the valves are shutting properly. Besides the one valve I put in, the head was checked and reseated at the machine shop.
At this stage, I'm checking the battery power because when I turn the engine over with no spark plugs in, it turns over slowly and seems to be tight.
Next I'm going to check the spark with a spark plug light tester. Is there a way to test the spark plug leads/coil pack, (while still in the car), with the clamp meter?
there is no smoke, (so its not burning oil?)

 

[Louisa23]

ok, the compression is good 175psi per cylinder That makes me believe the valves are shutting properly. Besides the one valve I put in, the head was checked and reseated at the machine shop.
At this stage, I'm checking the battery power because when I turn the engine over with no spark plugs in, it turns over slowly and seems to be tight.
Next I'm going to check the spark with a spark plug light tester. Is there a way to test the spark plug leads/coil pack, (while still in the car), with the clamp meter?
there is no smoke, (so its not burning oil?)

I just checked the battery
it reads 12.51
on start up it goes down to 9.60
when alternator kicks in it goes to 14.23
Engine runs like its still tight
???
There is spark going to all the cylinders it looks strong by eye?
Even when the engine is running when its cold, it runs like this. After running for a short amount of time, it comes good.
It just blew a heap of carbon out of the exhaust pipe.
I hope I haven't timed it on the wrong TDC
???
26 February 2023

 

[Aussiblue]

t I'm going to check the spark with a spark plug light tester

Use one of these instead: Toledo Ignition Spark Tester Box Type - 302165 or Toledo Spark Plug Firing Tester Heavy Duty 302167 - 302167 or https://www.repco.com.au/en/tools-e...er-302167/p/A9485434?_br_psugg_q=spark+tester They will tell you more.

Engine runs like its still tight

Are you having to use the accelerator to stop[ it stalling or just it just sound like that at idle?

 

[Aussiblue]

It just blew a heap of carbon out of the exhaust pipe.

The catalytic convertor isn't dented blocked or otherwise damaged? Does it glow at night when hot?

 

[Aussiblue]

If it's surging at idle check you don't have one bad spark plug (check for cracked ceramic insulator, broken electrode, wrong gap etc) or a bad HT lead (check resistance end to end with the multimeter and the fit tight at both ends). Also check you don't have a vacuum leak at the inlet manifold gasket or in the PCV system Check battery terminal clamps are tight and not cracked. Ditto check earth ends are tight. Also check the fuel filter for blockages or debris.

 

[Louisa23]

Use one of these instead: Toledo Ignition Spark Tester Box Type - 302165 or Toledo Spark Plug Firing Tester Heavy Duty 302167 - 302167 or https://www.repco.com.au/en/tools-e...er-302167/p/A9485434?_br_psugg_q=spark+tester They will tell you more.



Are you having to use the accelerator to stop[ it stalling or just it just sound like that at idle?

no, I don't need the accelerator.
After about a minute or two idling, it starts running normal

 

[Aussiblue]

No fault codes?

 

[Aussiblue]

After about a minute or two idling, it starts running normal

Check all the inlet manifold fasteners are tight. The can loosen that creates a small vaccum leak between the head and the inlet manifold that goes when the manifold and head heat up closing the gap.

 

[Louisa23]

Fault codes were incorrect.
map sensor was loose.
ill redo them and send through the new ones.
I tightened the manifold, checked the catalytic converter, going to pick up the spark tester
it should jump 3mm Is that right?

 

[Aussiblue]

it should jump 3mm Is that right?

No; it needs to jump a minimum of 6mm to start and run properly and in a healthy ignition system will usually jump about 30mm or 3cm.

 

[Louisa23]

No; it needs to jump a minimum of 6mm to start and run properly and in a healthy ignition system will usually jump about 30mm or 3cm.

I meant 3cm. No codes. I've gone over all the sensor wires, it is running better. I'll check the spark, then take it for a run later. I need to go and find a steering rack tomorrow as the rack under it is not good.
Thanks again for all your help and input.
No doubt, with this jinxed Ford, we'll talk again, soon

 

[Louisa23]

I just changed my steering rack and find the horn is going off, when I turn my steering wheel. Plus the air bag light flashes. Have i done something wrong?

 

[Aussiblue]

I just changed my steering rack and find the horn is going off, when I turn my steering wheel. Plus the air bag light flashes. Have i done something wrong?

Likely yes. Probably detached some wires at the cabin/steering wheel end and they are shorting against the column. Remove the steering column plastic shroud and horn pad and check the wiring under the pad and inside and around the steering column.

 

[Louisa23]

Likely yes. Probably detached some wires at the cabin/steering wheel end and they are shorting against the column. Remove the steering column plastic shroud and horn pad and check the wiring under the pad and inside and around the steering column.

ok. I hear what you're saying. I didn't go near the steering wheel or column, inside the car. I only connected the rack underneath without moving the steering wheel. ???
So the jinxed car, strikes again.