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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Any tips on removing gungeon pins from the pistons? Ive already broken one piston head, trying to remove the pin and I don't want to put the connecting rod against steel in case it damages it. Do you think i should try heat on that one? The machine shop wants the block completely bare. I'm not sure what steps to take to remove these two things (in case there are specific ways to remove them) Thanks

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You should use a hydraulic press and a suitable sized drift or punch per figure 54 in section 8-2-33 in the factory workshop manual to remove the pins from the pistons. Given this is your first time doing a full engine strip down and rebuild can, I recommend you get hold of a copy of Tom Monroe's "Engine Builder's Handbook". (HPBooks 1245) as it covers most of the things the Ford Workshop manuals assume you already know. The Haynes Techbook 1763 "Ford Engine Overhaul Manual" is not bad also but I think Tom Monroes' is the better of the two books. Yes; you need to remove both those items; being the knock sensor and the bit that blanks of the redundant distributor drive hole with the also redundant distributor hold down clamp ( the block is essentially the same as the earlier E series that ran distributors so they had to blank the distributor drive off but I thing the oil pump drive shaft is there still. Ditto with the oil pump and any other sensors and pressure switches etc as the machine shop will want a completely naked block.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I am taking the block and head to the machine shop
tomorrow. They tell me it will be about a week to do.
I thought I would keep you updated. I am waiting on the
Tom Monroe book, plus, the set of pipe wrenches
work like a dream.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I know this component goes into the idle sprocket, plus something to do with the oil feed. Is there a correct way of setting it to the idle sprocket, as i can not find it in any of the books. makes it hard when i don't know its name.
I thought it was going to be one week for the block and head to be done. Looks like it will be three weeks.

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I was wondering if there was a correct way to set it to the idle balancer, or if it just goes back in. Its not broken. Im just rebuilding the engine.
 

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The synchronizee can go back in at any point; there is no engine timing involved with it. Even in those older models where there was a cam position sensor involved, positioning is not critical. Same as here for a V8
Note that he amended this from this one after I and several others pointed out he was wrong and positioning was not critical. In fact the engine does not even need to be at TDC when it's inserted. Basically it's just a "dummy distributor" to provide the only bit of the redundant distributor still required; the oil pump drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
Ive started the rebuild. Crankshaft and caps are in place. Ive checked the end-play with feeler gauges and its 0.25mm. Ill check it with the dial indicator, tomorrow. If i get the same, ill be happy. Does that seem right, to you?
Crankshaft is in and moving freely. Ill start putting pistons in tomorrow
Any advice along the way, is much appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I started my rebuild. On the bearing kit, that you recommended me, it only came with the bottom of the thrust bearing, not both. Should this matter? I only ask because when i looked at a picture of them, it had both.
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I spoke to the engine builder, and he says this model only has one. I only took one out, so that makes sense. At this stage, cam is in, moving nicely. End play is 0.05. I'm happy with that. Tomorrow i install the pistons. As always, any input is always helpful
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
I'm having a moment, and I cant remember the correct torque specs for tightening the head bolts. When i google, I come across too many different opinions. As I value yours, the most, would you be so kind, as to share what they are with me, please
thanks
much appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Do you have any idea where I can get the two bolts that hold the oil pump to the block? Ill try ford on Monday. The wreckers here are pretty limited, for AU parts.
 

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Head Bolts specs per Page 8-2-25 Figure 43 in the factory workshop manual:

a) Initial rundown toque of 90Nm in sequence (circular pattern center out)
b) Back off just enough to unseat washer head
c) Retorque to 30Nm in sequence
d) Tighten another 120 degrees

They are torque to yield bolts that stretch when tightened to spec so you must use new bolts.


The two types of oil pump bolts bolts have parts numbers and I suspect were the same in earlier (EA to EL) and perhaps even later B series models so Ford should be able to still supply.
 
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