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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
I,m just going over everything in my head, before putting the engine back in.Like the oil pan, I followed the workshop manual 8.2.26 with the sealant. I was checking the seals by blowing air in to the sump and spraying soap water on it is that fine?
 

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I,m just going over everything in my head, before putting the engine back in.Like the oil pan, I followed the workshop manual 8.2.26 with the sealant. I was checking the seals by blowing air in to the sump and spraying soap water on it is that fine?
Interesting approach and I see no harm in it. Provide you use your sense and keep the air pressure moderate so you don't blow any seals or gaskets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 · (Edited)
I am finding it hard to find the right way to install my Automatic transmission? I didn't mark it to the flex plate. I am going to attach it before putting it all back in. Any ideas would be helpful.
Thanks for all your help
 

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Given the car's age, it's probably been out before and if so (and unless you've cleaned them off) there will likely be old paint marks for aligning the drive-plate and convertor. If not there may be witness marks in terms of rust and oil stains etc. The tarnsmission will only go in one way in terms of the pan being parallel to the ground and the bolt holes aligning. Just ensure torque convertor is fully engaged in the front of the transmission before installing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Given the car's age, it's probably been out before and if so (and unless you've cleaned them off) there will likely be old paint marks for aligning the drive-plate and convertor. If not there may be witness marks in terms of rust and oil stains etc. The tarnsmission will only go in one way in terms of the pan being parallel to the ground and the bolt holes aligning. Just ensure torque convertor is fully engaged in the front of the transmission before installing.
The torque converter is completely out, at the moment. Its supposed to go in, three clicks. Is that right? Im talking about the gearbox bolt torque specs. Im finding BAs and everyone else, finding AUs is difficult!
 

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All the AU specs are in the factory workshop manual that can be downloaded as a PDF together with all the Technical Service Bulletins, Owners Handbooks, Troubleshooting Guides and lots of other useful information for what I think is a bargain US$21.95 for a 72 hour subscription here: https://www.motorcraftservice.com That 72 hours would be enough to download all the workshop manuals and other PDF documents for all the Fords ever made in Australia in the last 30 years. I really think it is foolhardy rebuilding and refitting the motor without it. Note where a section of the workshop manual is unchanged from previous model(s) those section are sometimes not included so in your case, where there are gaps in the number sequence, I suggest that together with the AU Series I, II and III and T series workshop manuals you will need to download the EF/EL workshop manual as well or at least those missing sections from those AU manuals. Note also that the wiring diagrams are in seperate files that also need to be downloaded sepertaely from the workshop manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Its all back together. Motor is running well. Ive driven it for 70km. I have a few drips of oil, coming from what seems to be one of the bottom bolts of the transmission. To start with, I thought it may have been the crankshaft seal, but I ran the motor for several minutes, not under load, and it doesn't seem to leak. Only after driving, it has a few oil drops. Any ideas?
Thanks again.
 

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You sure it's not leaking from the rear of the valve cover near the firewall and dripping down onto the transmaission. Put your hand behind there and see if it gets oily. Well done on what appears to be a successful rebuild though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
These Repco are Ok https://www.repco.com.au/en/tools-e...179/p/A9445087?_br_psugg_q=compression+tester as are the Toolpro from Supecheap ToolPRO Compression Tester Kit 8 Piece I use an ABW set myself but like most olds Oz too companies, they are no longer in business. What's the concern; would a leak down tester be more useful? See
worth a watch just for the accent.
The accent was pretty cool
I;m not really worried, but I have had a lot of trouble, so I;m keeping an eye on it. I was getting a lot of water in the exhaust pipe. Just to be careful, I did a compression test, and I was getting different readings from the same cylinder. The tester seemed to be losing air through the rubber near the spark plug socket, which didn't seem right to me. The one I have seems very much like the supercheap one. I have a leakdown tester, as well. Other than that, its running really well.
 
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