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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
I want to grease all the nipple points, but there aren't any, in the front end, that I can see? How do I go about that? Ive driven 500kms, the motor is purring along, nicely, Thanks to all your help.
 

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There no grease nipples on these and all Falcons from the EA onwards; these cars all have sealed joints that are replaced as worn out or damaged or lubricated when being rebuilt. That said, you will often find removable threaded metal plugs with a hex head at the bottoms of the ball joints, bottom of a the tie rod ends, on the drive shaft Universal Joints, the upper and lower A arm ends that can temporarily be removed and fitted with grease nipples, a the seal grease relief punctured, grease applied then the nipple removed and the plug replaced. But in my view it a waste of time and the grease just attracts abrasive sand etc and the greasing process often blows out the rubber seals unless you puncture them properly first and then reseal them. Some after market ball joints etc (e.g. Front Lower+Upper Ball Joints Outer Tie Rod Ends & Link Pins Falcon AU 2 BA BF | eBay ) come fitted with grease nipples but the original and better quality ones (e.g Genuine Ford Falcon AU BA BF " Pair of outer Tie Rod Ends" 1998-2008 | eBay ) are usually sealed for life units. IMO they are best left alone and ungreased then replaced as they break or wear out. In my experience people who retro fit nipples or buy after market joints fitted with nipples usually blow out the rubber seals on the joints while greasing them as they don't understand the need to have a release hole in the seal that can be capped off after greasing. Some ball joints with grease nipples do have a grease relief valve that will allow old grease to safely exit the ball joint without compromising the seal (see How to Grease Ball Joints with or without a Zerk Fitting | Suspension.com ) . You even retro fit the rubber dust boots that have valves per KRYPTONITE REPLACEMENT DUST BOOTS However, you will not find in the lubrication section of the factory workshop manual (Part 21) a chassis greasing schedule or a diagram of lubrication points. Also see Why don t new cars have grease fittings? [Solved] (2022) etc. I for one were pleased to see grease zerks and messy chassis greasing job vanish in most cars circa 1980.
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
That was very helpful. There is a noise under load at the back end of the car? I changed differential oil, I'm a little worried I might of placed the tail shaft on wrong? If I lift the back end off the ground and run the gear box in drive, will l get a true reading as the suspension will be hanging down, any ideas would be helpful
The noise is not that bad, just noticeable.
 

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[Q]If I lift the back end off the ground and run the gear box in drive, will l get a true reading as the suspension will be hanging down, any ideas would be helpful [/Q]

Should be OK if you have someone else turn the engine on and off and they don't apply the brake while the wheels are turning [emphasise this to them as if they do there is a good chance they will destroy trans clutches - and they will be tempted as while the wheels might be turning the car won't be moving and the will feel safer with the brakes on]. Did you put paint marks on the tail shaft to mark it's position? If not check there will likely old paint marks at the rear on the diff and shaft and UJ.
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 · (Edited)
The noise stops if I pull right on the steering wheel when driving. I replaced the left wheel bearing hub, the noise is a little better but still there? Plus my torque wrench only goes up to 208 Nm, I used a breaker bar to tighten the hub bolt, that worry's me a little. What do you think I should try next? The right hub I'm worried about the torque as it is? One more thing there is a bracket for the ABS sensor, but no sensor
Is that right for the 2001 AU ?
Again Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 · (Edited)
I will get that for sure thanks, for now I torqued the hub nut to 208nm,s then went 180 degrees, It seems good. I will do it again, I havn't drove it yet it still up on stands. I am still getting bubbles in to my power steering pump when turning the steering wheel full rotation so i am trying to find the leak or bad pump?
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
I find the right hub is a problem after changing the left side.Next I was waiting for the torque extension. That broke under no stress at all, inside it there is two sprockets and a chain to move them, the sprocket teeth broke
My question is since the extension has moving sprockets and not a stable bar,will that make the torque different?
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Yeah, I did. Its crap. I just ordered the digital one 1/2 to 340nm. It wont arrive until12th October, so in the meantime, Ill have a play with spanners. My question is Working on motor vehicles, is it worth me getting the 3/4 inch to 1000nm?
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
I am having trouble finding where the power steering is sucking air. Ive taken the leads off and replaced the o rings and I'm still getting air. Any ideas on how to find the leak. I feel like Ive tried everything. Ive tried 3 different second hand power steering pumps. Im a bit hesitant to buy a New pump, unless I know thats the problem. When the power steering sensor is not connected, the engine runs smooth. Once connected, it seems to run a little rough. Yes, Ive changed the switch. It was the right hand bearing making the noise, At least now, they're both replaced.
Thanks
 

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What were the O rings made of; the power steering fluid will dissolve many types of O ring. Nitrile rubber O ring gaskets that are not resistant to power steering fluid and dissolve to mush. Polyacrylate 'O' rings are best. Plumbers tape or master pipe sealant won't work either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
What were the O rings made of; the power steering fluid will dissolve many types of O ring. Nitrile rubber O ring gaskets that are not resistant to power steering fluid and dissolve to mush. Polyacrylate 'O' rings are best. Plumbers tape or master pipe sealant won't work either.
The polyacylate o rings are difficult to get. Ford don't even sell them anymore. Would you have a link for those at all?
 
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