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Try Fluorocarbon (Viton) O rings; any air con place should stock them. I think Ford switched to them too. These O RING SEAL AIR CON CONDENSER EVAPORATOR POWER STEERING FORD AU (5) GENUINE | eBay Also be extremely careful to use a spanner or socket to gently screw the power steering switch in; turning firmly by hand using the body of the switch will often cause a small fracture and leak in the plastic or between the plastic and metal parts of the switch. Comparing the Viton with Polyacrylic here Polyacrylate (ACM) O-Rings | ESP International suggest the Viton meets or out performs the ployacrylic in most ways. Also see Polyacrylate (ACM) O-Rings | ESP International and Chemical Resistant Fluorocarbon (FKM) O-Rings | ESP International . As I recall due to their better compression resistance (see Material Choice Guide to Selecting Rubber Compounds ) and worse cold flexibility, the Viton ones need to tightened slightly more that the polacrylic to seal and that increases the risk of fracturing the switch; they are less squishy to put it simply.
 

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I tend to buy assortments in bulk so I always have what I need on hand, Try Supercheap for these (my last ebay purchase a few years ago): O-Rings | eBay ToolPRO Viton O Ring Set Assorted 180 Piece Although I can't find them listed anymore at Supercheap and the ebay listing no longer says Viton.There's also: Performance Tool O-Ring Kits Viton 180pcs Plastic Case Various Sizes Kit (W5239) | eBay albeit somewhat more expensive. I am not sure these include the required size Performance Tool O-Ring Kits Viton 180pcs Plastic Case Various Sizes Kit (W5239) | eBay and Aeroflow Viton Rubber O-Ring Kit, AF178-KIT . There's also these: 150PCS Green Viton / FKM Rubber O-Ring Seals Kit | eBay
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
Hi Aussiblue,
I got the power steering to work, properly. The motor is running a bit rough. On start it has a little cough, and then starts. I put a second hand fuel rail in, cleaned the injectors, reset the manifold, sprayed WD40 between the manifold and the head to make sure there was no leaks and replaced the inlet manifold loom. New fuel filter, as it seemed to starve for petrol on cruise control. I seemed to have fixed that problem. Compression is all good. I went back to the old spark plug leads, and it seems to be running a little better. On the taco, the needle is moving up and down, ever so slightly and i can see by eye, the motor is running a bit rough. Its annoying me, because its my rebuild. I'm not giving up on this car (even though I've wanted to burn it, a hundred times).
Any ideas, because I'm at wits end.
hopefully the video helps
thanks

 

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Doesn't sound too bad. The cough at start up often indicates the butterfly on the throttle body is either sticking or adjusted incorrectly. Try some throttle body cleaner (not carburetor cleaner) e.g. CRC Throttle Body and Air Intake Cleaner 400g on it and check it has the correct gap when cold. Also check the wiring near the harmonic balancer on both the crank and camshaft sensors is sound and their connector are clean.

"sprayed WD40 between the manifold and the head to make sure there was no leaks and replaced the inlet manifold loom. This won't work usually on a modern computerise fuel injected computer controlled negine. The manifolds typically leak at number 1 and or 6 as the nuts on the manifold retaining studs there loosen over time and the very bottom parts of the gasket then burns out. Because only a small part of the gasket has burnt out, simply re-tightening the nuts won't fix it and you will need to replace the gasket remembering to torque to specification in a circular patter from the center of the manifold outward.

Note they also often leak on the vaccum line that goes to the evap purge tank so check that too. Also double check the PCV valve is properly seated and there is no vac cum leak there or on any of the PCV system hoses and that the little plastic T pieces on the small vaccum under the throttle body is not cracked and leaking.

Note that the old pre-computerised fuel injection trick of using/spraying engine start sprays, WD40, benzene, various gas,es water, oil etc around the manifold will most often not work to find these leaks as the ECU very rapidly adjust for the change in air in the mixture and it's usually impossible to pick up any change in the engine noise or rpms using this old method. As it the lowest point of the gasket that burns out creating the vacuum leak, you are also fighting gravity with any gases or fluid sprayed around just falling to the ground rather than being sucked in where the small piece of gasket has burnt through.

Instead use a length of windscreen washer sized hose with one end in or close to the ear to listen for the no mistaking tell-tale sucking noise of a vacuum leak while poking around under the manifold at idle (with engine both cold and hot as the gap between the head and the manifold changes as the metal in the manifold and head expands and shrinks with heat and cooling).

Alternatively you can successfully use an adapted party fog machine from Altronics or Jaycar (e.g. 400W Mini Fog Machine with RGB LEDs | Jaycar Electronics ) as a smoke machine. leak detector. It is much easier use if you buy one of these pump up adapters https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/20374305...3ABFBM5K3mp4Zg and fit in to the fog machine though. It makes it more effective and easier to use. But although I have one (an adapted party fog machine) and it works well, I have only rarely needed it to find leaks in uncommon places; the length of hose trick works 95% of the time and is quicker, is simpler and easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
Doesn't sound too bad. The cough at start up often indicates the butterfly on the throttle body is either sticking or adjusted incorrectly. Try some throttle body cleaner (not carburetor cleaner) e.g. CRC Throttle Body and Air Intake Cleaner 400g on it and check it has the correct gap when cold. Also check the wiring near the harmonic balancer on both the crank and camshaft sensors is sound and their connector are clean.

"sprayed WD40 between the manifold and the head to make sure there was no leaks and replaced the inlet manifold loom. This won't work usually on a modern computerise fuel injected computer controlled negine. The manifolds typically leak at number 1 and or 6 as the nuts on the manifold retaining studs there loosen over time and the very bottom parts of the gasket then burns out. Because only a small part of the gasket has burnt out, simply re-tightening the nuts won't fix it and you will need to replace the gasket remembering to torque to specification in a circular patter from the center of the manifold outward.

Note they also often leak on the vaccum line that goes to the evap purge tank so check that too. Also double check the PCV valve is properly seated and there is no vac cum leak there or on any of the PCV system hoses and that the little plastic T pieces on the small vaccum under the throttle body is not cracked and leaking.

Note that the old pre-computerised fuel injection trick of using/spraying engine start sprays, WD40, benzene, various gas,es water, oil etc around the manifold will most often not work to find these leaks as the ECU very rapidly adjust for the change in air in the mixture and it's usually impossible to pick up any change in the engine noise or rpms using this old method. As it the lowest point of the gasket that burns out creating the vacuum leak, you are also fighting gravity with any gases or fluid sprayed around just falling to the ground rather than being sucked in where the small piece of gasket has burnt through.

Instead use a length of windscreen washer sized hose with one end in or close to the ear to listen for the no mistaking tell-tale sucking noise of a vacuum leak while poking around under the manifold at idle (with engine both cold and hot as the gap between the head and the manifold changes as the metal in the manifold and head expands and shrinks with heat and cooling).

Alternatively you can successfully use an adapted party fog machine from Altronics or Jaycar (e.g. 400W Mini Fog Machine with RGB LEDs | Jaycar Electronics ) as a smoke machine. leak detector. It is much easier use if you buy one of these pump up adapters https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/20374305...3ABFBM5K3mp4Zg and fit in to the fog machine though. It makes it more effective and easier to use. But although I have one (an adapted party fog machine) and it works well, I have only rarely needed it to find leaks in uncommon places; the length of hose trick works 95% of the time and is quicker, is simpler and easier.
Thanks
That ought to keep me busy for a while
thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
I have gone over the vacuum hoses. They seem all good. I think I will change the throttle body but when I was going over the engine I found a very small oil leak, between the timing chain cover and the head on the passenger side. I'm a little worried that the timing chain cover wasn't at the right height to the block. Even though it seemed like it. I know this isn't urgent, but the only way I can think of fixing it, is head off, once again, check the height on the timing cover, and if needed, timing cover off and reseated. If you have any ideas at all, Id love to hear them.
Thanks
 

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I found a very small oil leak, between the timing chain cover and the head on the passenger side
More likely the beads of Loctite 5900 or equivalent silicon sealant wasn't applied strictly as prescribed in the workshop manual:
Rectangle Parallel Font Drawing Line art



A hack "fix" that sometimes of works, but to me always looks amateurish (although Iv'e seen it done by Ford dealer's service centers), is to clean the leaking area extremely thoroughly with brake cleaner and then after it drys, apply a thicker and wider (say 4mm) bead of sealant externally to the joint while applying some pressure to try and push it into the joint with a small plastic putty knife or similar (but still leaving a wider external bead). However, per http://tds.henkel.com/tds5/Studio/ShowPDF/?pid=SI 5900&format=MTR&subformat=REAC&language=EN&plant=WERCS&authorization=2 note that especially when using this "after the event method" it needs to be left to cure for at least 7 day, If you used another brand equivalent to apply these beads during engine assembly (and it really was an equivalent), use the same brand again to ensure maximum cohesion between the new bead and what of the original bead remains in the joint.

Did you find any vacuum leaks around the lower part of the inlet manifold gasket?
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 · (Edited)
No inlet manifold gasket leaks
Yes I followed the manual instructions with the beading. I used JB Weld Blue RTV 100% Silicone (Gasket Maker & Sealant)
My question is, If I don't do this properly, it will eventually leak again, Is this correct?
Have i used the wrong sealant?
Why I think it might be the throttle body, is because, in the beginning, when i was still learning, I believe I may have been a bit rough when cleaning it.
Occasionally, it wont start on the first turn
I know I'm nit picking this engine, But before i start on my next project, I want this one perfect.
Can you send me a link for the correct gasket set to re set the head, as I think this is the best option?
Thank you
 

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I have never used that sealant, but given that JB weld is a very reputable company and the claim its suitable for oil pans and timing gear covers it should have been OK. The reapplication of a bead to the outside may work and you've got nothing to lose. Id the air cleaner filter and it's box in good condition? A blocked air filter or leaking filter box can cause a cough at start up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
I put a new air filter in, on Tuesday, the same day I applied the beading. I checked it Friday, It was still tacky. Should I put a hairdryer over it, as its been cold and rainy here, or should I just leave it for the week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
The sealant seem to work. Now i find a small leak that seem to be around the harmonic balancer? I have cleaned it. I will give it a few days and have a look. I am a little concerned, as i got the crankshaft linished off the machine shop, but they didnt have the equipment to balance it. I think all the problem with the engine is its not 100% balanced. I'm still a little worried that the timing chain cover is not sitting 100% correct?
As always, I appreciate any input, you have.
 
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