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2001 Ford AU II Motor rebuild

15K views 335 replies 9 participants last post by  Aussiblue 
#1 ·
Hopefully this is in the right section.
First time
Lots to learn
Im pulling the gearbox with the motor. Should I undo the power steering lines so they don’t get bent?
Thanks
 
#109 ·
I have gone over the vacuum hoses. They seem all good. I think I will change the throttle body but when I was going over the engine I found a very small oil leak, between the timing chain cover and the head on the passenger side. I'm a little worried that the timing chain cover wasn't at the right height to the block. Even though it seemed like it. I know this isn't urgent, but the only way I can think of fixing it, is head off, once again, check the height on the timing cover, and if needed, timing cover off and reseated. If you have any ideas at all, Id love to hear them.
Thanks
 
#110 · (Edited)
I found a very small oil leak, between the timing chain cover and the head on the passenger side
More likely the beads of Loctite 5900 or equivalent silicon sealant wasn't applied strictly as prescribed in the workshop manual:
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A hack "fix" that sometimes of works, but to me always looks amateurish (although Iv'e seen it done by Ford dealer's service centers), is to clean the leaking area extremely thoroughly with brake cleaner and then after it drys, apply a thicker and wider (say 4mm) bead of sealant externally to the joint while applying some pressure to try and push it into the joint with a small plastic putty knife or similar (but still leaving a wider external bead). However, per http://tds.henkel.com/tds5/Studio/ShowPDF/?pid=SI 5900&format=MTR&subformat=REAC&language=EN&plant=WERCS&authorization=2 note that especially when using this "after the event method" it needs to be left to cure for at least 7 day, If you used another brand equivalent to apply these beads during engine assembly (and it really was an equivalent), use the same brand again to ensure maximum cohesion between the new bead and what of the original bead remains in the joint.

Did you find any vacuum leaks around the lower part of the inlet manifold gasket?
 
#111 · (Edited)
No inlet manifold gasket leaks
Yes I followed the manual instructions with the beading. I used JB Weld Blue RTV 100% Silicone (Gasket Maker & Sealant)
My question is, If I don't do this properly, it will eventually leak again, Is this correct?
Have i used the wrong sealant?
Why I think it might be the throttle body, is because, in the beginning, when i was still learning, I believe I may have been a bit rough when cleaning it.
Occasionally, it wont start on the first turn
I know I'm nit picking this engine, But before i start on my next project, I want this one perfect.
Can you send me a link for the correct gasket set to re set the head, as I think this is the best option?
Thank you
 
#112 · (Edited)
I have never used that sealant, but given that JB weld is a very reputable company and the claim its suitable for oil pans and timing gear covers it should have been OK. The reapplication of a bead to the outside may work and you've got nothing to lose. Id the air cleaner filter and it's box in good condition? A blocked air filter or leaking filter box can cause a cough at start up.
 
#115 ·
The sealant seem to work. Now i find a small leak that seem to be around the harmonic balancer? I have cleaned it. I will give it a few days and have a look. I am a little concerned, as i got the crankshaft linished off the machine shop, but they didnt have the equipment to balance it. I think all the problem with the engine is its not 100% balanced. I'm still a little worried that the timing chain cover is not sitting 100% correct?
As always, I appreciate any input, you have.
 
#118 ·
To start with, I have a mild oil leak from the camshaft cover to the head. I'm not worrying about that until after X Mas. I believe that I will have to take the head off, again. My question is I have side to side movement on the front right hand wheel. It seems to be coming from the new bearing that I put in. Should I replace the bearing again?
Thanks
 
#122 ·
Ive changed the wheel bearing back to the one good one that I took off, Took it to the right torque, and It still has side to side movement in the bearing? Not a lot, but its there? I also have tightness in the power steering. (I did bog the car up to its axles, a couple of days ago) Thats when the tightness started. Ive looked underneath. Nothing bent. Everything seems in place?
Thanks
 
#123 ·
#125 · (Edited)
I found my movement. It is the inner tie rod end knuckle, not the rack. I know that will need replacing. Ill have to find where to get the removal tool? I still don't believe that will cause the problem, that im having with the steering. On turning its very firm and will not self center when straightening the car. Do I look at the pump next, or do you think it could be something else?
Thanks again, as always
 
#127 ·
Changed the power steering pump. Changed tie rod on one side. While I was doing this, I noticed that the rail in the steering rack looked as if its been overheated. It looks blue. Doesn't seem right to me? Coil springs are good. After doing the tie rod and giving it a rough wheel alignment, its a bit better, but still not right?
thanks for your help
 
#132 ·
I replaced the tie rods and ends. Got a wheel alignment. Its still very stiff to turn. I took the tie rod ends out of the wheel hub. Its still tight to turn. Its something to do with the power steering. Used UV Dye, cant find any leaks. Not the pump. Unless theres damage to the rack, Im not sure where to look next?
Thanks
 
#133 · (Edited)
Check the rack attaching bolts are tight and associated mounts where the rack attaches to the body are OK. Is the power steering pump drive belt in good condition and not glazed, covered in oil stains or delaminating. Jack the car up and turn the wheels back and forth to check for binding ball joints, steering linkages of shock absorbers. lean on the front two corners of the car and bounce the suspension to ensure the shock absorbers and/or springs are not broken or binding.

What brand of power steering fluid are you using? It needs to conform to

Fordspecifications M2C 134D or or better e.g Power Steering Fluid - 500mL


Do a power steering pump pressure test using one of these Universal Power Steering Pressure Tester with 13 PC Adapters 2000 psi / 7 0 bar | eBay (cheaper than needlessly buying a new pump albeit that may end up being the solution) .
or
or


Check the condition of the steering column universal joint (see if spraying very liberally with WD40 etc make any temporary difference in steering effort).

Readjust the the rack pad tension:

a) Release and back of the lock nut two turns.
b) with the steering in the straight ahead position tighten the rack pad adjusting screw to 10Nm to 12Nm.
c) back of adjusting screw 21 to 28 degrees.
d) while holding the adjusting screw in place tighten lock nut to 65Nm.

You will need a appropriately sized in-hex socket for the adjustment screw.

Gesture Monoplane Line Aircraft Font


Bleed the power steering system again.

Check the floor plate at the base of the steering column is in sound condition and not coming away from the firewall due to corrosion or other damage.

Check both front tyres are the same brand and size and in sound condition.

Check rack is properly centered with both wheel in the straight ahead position and steering wheel centered as below:
Font Parallel Auto part Slope Circle
 
#136 · (Edited)
To make sure it was the power steering, I disconnected both tie rod ends completely. I turned the steering wheel so the ball joints and springs were not in play. It was still stiff, so it is in the power steering system somewhere.

A Different Issue

I don't want to keep taking off the harmonic balance and putting a new seal in it, to find out it is still leaking. I fixed the leak I had between the head and timing cover. Now there is a leak behind the harmonic balancer, even though the locator pins seem right in the timing chain cover, it must be out of alignment
What do you think?
Thanks again
 
#138 ·
No hammering. I have come a long way since them days with your help. I used a longer bolt and washers to seat it. No, it wasn't a new balancer. If you have a link to a good aftermarket balancer, that would help. If you believe that's my next move.
Thanks for your help
Go and enjoy your Christmas break.
 
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