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Discussion Starter #1
Does anybody know if there are any other gearshifters besides Hurst available for a 5 speed manual transmission in an 01 Ford Ranger xlt 2.3L? I don't really want to spend $300+ on a gearshifter but all I can really find are Hurst short throw shifters. Thanks.
 

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Are you replacing it because yo broke it or are you replacing it because you don't like it?
 

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@CatSkinner it's starting to catch in 2nd 3rd and 4th, im occasionally having to force it into gear when that happens. It's also kicking out of gear while driving. Possibly the selector fork? Hopefully not the syncros.
 

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I believe you have the M5R1, similar to the M5R2... which I rebuilt 2 summers ago. First and foremost, unless you have a really good setup in your garage and have a lot of patience stream lined parts houses (you're not going to find what you need at NAPA, O'Reilly's, etc.), have it professionally rebuilt. But there's hope. First, if you want to take a look to see what damage you have, once the transmission is out of the truck, the top section comes off easy... just make sure you put it in neutral. It'll take 2 screwdrivers and a fair amount of foul language to get it back into neutral once the shifter is out. I was playing around with it before it's final assembly and I don't remember what gear I was in, but it wasn't neutral and the transmission was bolted in place. I said a litany of words that probably haven't crossed my lips since I was in the Navy.

Anyway, before pulling it,check the oil level, it should be level with the upper oil port. Regardless of the level drain it anyway, examine the oil, it should be Mercon V. If you are having trouble shifting, you are correct, it could be the forks or the synchros. By popping the top, you can perform a good inspection of gears 1-4 (5 and revers requires popping the tail off, but seeing the first 4 should be a good indication) as well as the forks and rails. The end caps for the rails are notorious for leaking, I replaced mine with metal ones and gave them a light coat of GE silicon on install. When you pop the top, you can also see the oil catch/drain. make sure that's clear. If I remember right, you can wiggle that out without removing the gears, but if you have to force it, I'm wrong, put it back. I've filtered a lot of bourbon through my brain over the years.

You should see a port on the driver's side of the transmission towards the back, make sure that's cear. If it is munged up in the transmission, you want to pop the back off to do a clean and inspect. For my final assemble, I used about 4 cans of electronics spray cleaner (it's easier on the seals) and after it dried, I went through about 2 quarts of transmission fluid pouring it over the gears while I shifted them and rotated the shaft by hand. While it's out, your best off to replace the output seal, it's easy and good practice. Clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing as well.

Trust me on this, unless you are a glutton for punishment, send it out for a rebuild if you need to change any of the rotating parts. send it out. I spent over a month trying to get the right parts. One parts house (I wish I could remember their name) took a week to get back to me to tell me they no longer stocked the shim I was looking for. As for me, it was worth the experience, but next time I by a refurb.
 
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