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Discussion Starter #1
Two-parts:
1.) What are the FP specs for my 2006 Escape 3.0L V6? My Haynes manual says 35-70 psi (which is nebulous). Does anyone know EXACTLY what I should expect? What would an 06 Escape right off the assembly line read?
1a. KOnEOff = ? My gauge reads as follows: KOEO = 46 psi then dropped down to 41psi after 10 minutes. If I cycled the "Key On/Key Off" three times, I could get KOnEOff = 52 psi with a drop down to 43 after 10 minutes.
1b. KOnEOn = ? With engine cold, I initially read 32 psi at 1200 rpm (idle speed). Within a minute, I read 31 psi at 700 rpm (which is my normal idle speed). 31 psi just seems low for normal idle (altho not yet at peak operating temp).
1c. Altho there are ZERO performance issues, my gas mileage has decreased from about 19 mpg to 14 mpg.
2.) Does anyone know a resource for specific OEM fuel pressure specs for any and all cars or at least all Fords?
 

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Will be trying Technical Service Bulletin 05-26-1 and Technical Service Bulletin 01-010/06. Both seem to apply to the same problem: "Long crank/hard start." The TSB enscribes: "Some 2005-2006 Escape and Mariner 3.0L vehicles built from 7/19/2004 through 12/5/2005 may exhibit a long crank/hard start under either cold or hot engine conditions." My 2006 Escape was manufactured 10/2005 so it fits this TSB. The following repair procedure is decribed in the TSB: "Using PDS/IDS B41.1 or later software, reprogram the PCM to the lastest calibration by following the 'module reprogramming' procedure." The way I read this TSB, there may not be any codes thrown in regards to this software problem. (And that has always been part of my quandary: no codes.) We'll see what happens.
 

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Voila! Problem fixed. My Escape now starts right up on the first or second crank. And, get this, my gas mileage has gone back to what I had been getting (19-20 mpg)! Unbelievable. I had looked at just about every possible component, etc., and tested stuff or replaced stuff (if it were really cheap to do so), and nothing fixed the problem until this. So if you own a 2005 or 2006 Escape, and your gas mileage is hovering around 14 mpg (when you used to get 19-20 mpg), and there is some delayed crank, and especially if you have no check engine codes despite gasoline going "somewhere out there," and your Escape seems to be running fine otherwise, you might want to spend the $100 for so to get your PCM reprogrammed re TSB 05-26-1.

In regards to a manual with specific fuel pressure readings, especially KOEO and warm idle psi's and KOEO-holding pressure times, I'd be happy to have for the future.
 

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Sorry I hadn't gotten to this sooner, but good to hear! As far as leak down time, it doesn't take much to make it drop a couple of pounds, if you could watch it drift down, it'd be a problem.
 

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Sorry I hadn't gotten to this sooner, but good to hear! As far as leak down time, it doesn't take much to make it drop a couple of pounds, if you could watch it drift down, it'd be a problem.
Voila! Problem fixed. My Escape now starts right up on the first or second crank. And, get this, my gas mileage has gone back to what I had been getting (19-20 mpg)! Unbelievable. I had looked at just about every possible component, etc., and tested stuff or replaced stuff (if it were really cheap to do so), and nothing fixed the problem until this. So if you own a 2005 or 2006 Escape, and your gas mileage is hovering around 14 mpg (when you used to get 19-20 mpg), and there is some delayed crank, and especially if you have no check engine codes despite gasoline going "somewhere out there," and your Escape seems to be running fine otherwise, you might want to spend the $100 for so to get your PCM reprogrammed re TSB 05-26-1.

In regards to a manual with specific fuel pressure readings, especially KOEO and warm idle psi's and KOEO-holding pressure times, I'd be happy to have for the future.
 

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Thanks for the FP info. I've noticed since I recently started futzing with cars, that FP specs are like gold. And, as discussed, FP behavior as well. I also have a feeling that if I had one of those expensive scanners, I might have been able to figure something out via the fuel trims. The idea being that whatever caused my decrease in fuel economy, was "spike-ish" in time; which would have registered a big percentage difference between the short and long-term fuel trims. Of course, I still would have had to surmise that lacking any codes, the PCM was possibly "schizo." And assuming also, that one of those expensive scanners save fuel trim data over time. By the way, as my next leg of my investigation, I was going to unplug my MAF sensor (because it's "right there" and easy to do), and wait for a code, then see if there was also freeze frame information associated with this code. And see if the fuels trims were reported. (Altho I am guessing nothing would be off kilter anyways because by now, the PCM had long since "smoothed out" any spikes.)

Note: In case anyone was planning to use the FP readings, I listed above, my FP gauge may be off (low) by 3 or 4 psi? I tried to see if my gauge was off kilter and by how much so I blew air into it from my compressor and there was about 4 or 5 psi difference from the gauge and the regulator gauge. So I used a regular tire pressure gauge to read one of my car tires, then hooked up the FP gauge to the car tire, and the gauge was different by 3 psi. I was worried because I hadn't used the gauge for about 5 years, and who knows how residual 5-year-old gas affects such a gauge. (This time, I blew everything out with compressed air hoping that procludes any gumminess.)
 
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