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Now while this may or may not be a repair you would attempt depending on your equipment, it is still one of those very good to know items lurking in your Escape just waiting to fail and then it gets real expensive! I personally own an Escape and replaced mine as even with my free labor and hefty parts discount it would still be a expensive job if it failed and destroyed the rest of the A/C system. Just an FYI for all Escape owners in case you already didn't know.

 

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What a coincidence. I just replaced my dryer on a 2010 Escape V6 4x4.
Here's what happens... The compressor is pushing the high pressure into the condenser, then the dryer, to the Expansion Valve. The expansion valve drops the pressure to 35-40? psi just before the condenser, and then back to the compressor. The condenser inside the dash is where the air is chilled.

So, as the video kinda explains, the desiccant material is in the dryer. When it escapes the dryer, the first place it hits is the Expansion valve. The goods news is that it appears to be difficult to get past the valve. The bad news; the valve gets plugged an no a/c.

When you hook up your gages, the high pressure looks good, and the low pressure side looks really low. This is similar symptoms to low Freon. If you start to add some Freon, the high side will go over the top and bow the pressure relief. That was the first time I saw that.

So, I replaced the Expansion valve, and the a/c was fine for a week. Then I had the same problem. By then I had looked at the old valve and could see clumps of something in the valve... the only real contaminant in the system is the desiccant.
This time I replaced the dryer and the valve. Everything is fine now. The autozone cost for the valve was about $30 and the dryer $70. The problem was... I couldn't find a valve at any of the local parts stores. I suspect that there has been a rush on the valve market for this very issue. People may be replacing multiple valves before they replace the dryer.

I took the old dryer apart. Interesting... there is no old-style bag. The desiccant looks like floor-dry. It is contained in a plastic cup with a plastic cover. The plastic assembly is dropped into the aluminum housing and welded shut.
The bottom of the cup and cover have nearly identical screens. Both screens are covered with the circular filters(?). The floor-dry is in between the two felt filters.

The Freon enters from the top and goes down through the filter system. From the bottom of the dryer, it comes straight up the center tube and on its way to the expansion valve.

I found several grains of desiccant in the very bottom of the dryer.... not good.



So the moral of the story... if the a/c stops working... suspect the valve. If you replace the valve, replace the dryer. Don't waste time thinking you can do just the valve and a couple cans of Freon.
 

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Hi Everyone,

Thanks to the original poster for putting up this thread. I am encountering the 'expensive' issue with my 2011 Ford Escape.

A/C wasn't working, gauge pressures measured 400/100psi in about 85F ambient temperature, and the system was at full charge. The fan blowers also seemed to be down for the lower speeds, consistent with the TSB.

My question now is: assuming that my issue is related to a debris/desiccant circulating from a failed receiver/dryer, can any of the A/C components be flushed/cleaned, or do all need to be replaced?

The condenser is likely shot, because I will never be able to clear out the tiny openings, but the compressor seems to still function properly - it engages the clutch when the AC is turned on, cycling on and off when it hits the upper high pressure limit. If anything, I would seek to salvage the compressor and perhaps the expansion valve.

Thoughts?

Thanks!
Ben
 

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It's almost been a year since replacing the dryer and expansion valve. No problems.

It's possible that IF you have the dryer problem, it's POSSIBLE that the "kitty litter" can't pass thru the expansion valve, so the rest of the system MIGHT be OK.
I may have been one of the lucky ones.

A dealer/repair shop will probably do a flush and clean.... expensive.

Your low side pressure sounds high (100psi?). it should be a lot lower.
If your expansion valve is plugged, it should be much lower.

Are you sure you haven't overfilled the system?
 

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Actually there is a ford published TSB now that has the drier replaced. No flushing required and no ill effects from it. Has you check the blower operation. Says the failures are from a blower speed that doesn't work. Typically #1 speed. People allow AC to run when blower into. Causes the failure. I'll try and find it and post.
 

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Actually there is a ford published TSB now that has the drier replaced. No flushing required and no ill effects from it. Has you check the blower operation. Says the failures are from a blower speed that doesn't work. Typically #1 speed. People allow AC to run when blower into. Causes the failure. I'll try and find it and post.
Hmm, it was posted by the OP "somewhere" that there was an improved accumulator/dryer being used now, meaning that it was the cause of the problem.

The Limited HVAC has no numbered speeds.
 

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JohnDeeztech87
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Need some indepth help looking into a similar issue!!!

Hey guys. So to just verify the commonality of this failure and my issue..... Ive been reading up on issues similar to my problem and run into similar threads such as this but i want to be fairly sure prior to emptying my savings account to buy manifold gauges, vacuum pump, containers, refrigerant, drier, TXV, etc.....

So if i might be able to get some attention from the knowlegable folks here at fordforums i would be very much relieved.

So i have a 2012 ford escape limited 6 cyl with 79,000 miles (The wifes) and my car 2012 ford fusion se 4 cyl with 75,000... Hers had the front end rebuilt about a year and a half ago due to my wifes amazing driving abilities. No issues to speak of that are relevant to this problem at all until about 3 weeks ago ironically shortly after i finished tearing the top part of the intake manifold and other stuff off to swap out spark plugs as i found one that actually seperated the top half from the base causing a persistant misfire. Unfortunatly with limited resources amd time i had only replaced 1 of 6 but cleaned up the others and gapped - reinstalled everything properly except no new intake manifold gasket sadly or torque specs to work with at the time. ----- lomg story short no issues remained..

THE CONCERN:

Maybe a week later it began to warm up outside considerably so she of couese tries using the AC. I heard she was complaining about it not being really cold or that it worked some times which was vague at best so it went about 2 weeks untouched.

She stated it works sometimes and usually at the start up every mornkng for just a few moments then ambient temp air.


So i began looking into this.

DUPLICATING FAILURE/CONCERN:

Verified AC operation was intermittent at best,
- clutch engages and prodcues chilled air directly after initial start up or after extended periods of not running such as leaving work on lunch break..... After either INCREASING rpms or vehicle motion the A/C comprssor disengages at random even with A/C button ON, blowers full blast on high/ middle vents and temp to COLD thus duplicating the concern.

- I noticed on rare occasions A/C operation / temp output will work completely fine even while driving, toggling A/C compressor on / off, shut down and start up of engine.
- Also I have noticed A/C operation (Compressor) engages randomly sometimes during normal driving for just a few moments or sometimes longer.......


- I believe my A/C system has adequate pressure / refrigerant & PAG oil. (To cheap to take it to a shop - and to cheap to purchase some manifold gauges to see).....
- I know my compressor clutch gap is adequate otherwise these issues would be more consistent and slowly worsening. Not suddenly indicate an issue.
- I know there are no stored/active faults on the (PCM ONLY) i have a cheapo OBD reader from 2007......lol. Cant figure out what scan tool and programs i need to do software checks/tests and look at module operation and readings

---- i uploaded the only TSB icould find relating to my issues and this is what i found lol. However the description of issues <<< like my cooling fans running NON STOP >>> which i neglected to mention are for the most part accurate except the blower operation.....

My fan controls or even actually ALL my HVAC interface knobs, buttons, etc are in working order. Even the heat (blend door, etc) are all in working order other than the A/C button light working but no cold air afterwards.....

I have inspected my ambient air temp sensor, evaporator temp sensor (that is inserted ontop the evaporator housing under the passenger's side dash behind the glove box to the left next to the blower speed board i believe) -- i also snipped the plastic U shaped part off on the end of the sensor near the probe / cleaned it up a touch and reinstalled along with verifying the connectors condition.

I also inspected the A/C system externally and found no obvious signs of damage or leaks even with my UV light. I removed the shrader cap on high side and a touch of built up pressure behind the cap bled off indicating along with randomly cold air that refrigerant was present and had decent pressure atleast (not sure of proper pressure since no gauges to use)...... Inspected condenser up front and found no blockage or damage. Transmission temp is always with in spec...... Pressure sensor ontop of the drier was good for the most part (HAVENT TESTED INDIVIDUAL SENSORS AS TECHNICAL MANUAL WALKS YOU THROUGH TESTS, PINOUTS, AND OPERATIONAL CHECKS VIA A SPECIFIC TOOL & SOFTWARE ------ Vehicle Communication Module (VCM) & Integrated Diagnostics System (IDS) with appropriate software Or equivalent scan tool................

What scanner / program do i get so i can get into my cars electronics to do proper testing???

Conclusion :

I need you help, ideas, input...... AND im trying to search for other likelihood failures. Not settle with the horrible idea that the desicant bag blewbup into the TXV and contaminating the evaporator..............


HELP GUYS ( & GALS)!!!!

Thanks a ton everyone! Lets hear your thoughts!

:hy:
:grin2:
 

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Don't know of any electronics, but good old fashion inspections could be in order. Sorry, your going to need the manifold gauges. While running, check what your high side and low side are running. If your system is fouled with desiccant, your low side will run low while your high side should just be a little below normal. Also, the AC disengaging corresponds with the possibility of the desiccant fouling the system. If your weighed charge is correct, you may be seeing the LP switch opening up due to the fouling at the evaporator.

 

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Cdub87,

Your A/C problem that you described sounds identical to mine.

Wife's car:
2008 Ford Escape
Limited V6 4WD

It started randomly last year with around 69k miles. It was very intermittent but when it would happen the display for the radio and climate control would freeze up. Sometimes it would catch up and the display would start working and the A/C would also start working again. Other times, the display would go blank and go to the startup screen like when we start the vehicle displaying "Audiophile". It would blow cold again and I can hear the compressor engage whenever either of those scenarios occurred. There were also times that no matter how much I played with the climate control the A/C just never came back and it was as you described, blowing ambient air.

I'm curious if you are experiencing this issue also or if your issue was just low freon. I'm not sure if the person who posted after you was sure of your situation as I'm not sure. But if your problems are the same as mine, then you don't need gauges or to check your freon levels most likely. Mine is definitely electronic.

For example: today the A/C began acting up again, (which is what led me to this forum) it had almost to a T the exact symptoms you described, plus the ones I described. For the past few months we have driven around with a fully functional, literally freeze you out of your seat A/C. Today, for a nearly two hour period, everytime we drove the car it had these issues. (Side note: My work Truck is a 04 F150 and my gauge cluster is one of the ones with the corroding accessory port. This means from time to time all accessories in the truck, including radio, A/C, gauges and windows stop working, however, the climate control blower motor still functions normally. Well, I discovered, when this problem occurs, if I smack the top of the gauge cluster hard enough to give it a good quick rattle, it almost always starts working. Noticed this because the first time it happened, I drove around most of the day without windows or A/C in the 90s for temps in a black truck until I drove over a set of railroad tracks that shook the dash and everything came on.)

I told that big long side note to say this. A little before I got done driving, I got fed up with this problem in my wife's car because everyone in the car was dying of heat and the thought occurred to me. So I gave it a good smack on the side of the climate/radio panel and on top of the gauge cluster. Don't know if it worked or if it was just coincidence in timing, but the A/C began working properly again for the last few minutes of our drive.

My F150 I was able to find info on what was wrong fairly easy. Not such easy luck with this issue.

Does anyone know what the problem is with my wife's car? I've figured electrical already, but I don't know what.

Any help would be great, thanks!
 

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Hey guys. So to just verify the commonality of this failure and my issue..... Ive been reading up on issues similar to my problem and run into similar threads such as this but i want to be fairly sure prior to emptying my savings account to buy manifold gauges, vacuum pump, containers, refrigerant, drier, TXV, etc.....

So if i might be able to get some attention from the knowlegable folks here at fordforums i would be very much relieved.

So i have a 2012 ford escape limited 6 cyl with 79,000 miles (The wifes) and my car 2012 ford fusion se 4 cyl with 75,000... Hers had the front end rebuilt about a year and a half ago due to my wifes amazing driving abilities. No issues to speak of that are relevant to this problem at all until about 3 weeks ago ironically shortly after i finished tearing the top part of the intake manifold and other stuff off to swap out spark plugs as i found one that actually seperated the top half from the base causing a persistant misfire. Unfortunatly with limited resources amd time i had only replaced 1 of 6 but cleaned up the others and gapped - reinstalled everything properly except no new intake manifold gasket sadly or torque specs to work with at the time. ----- lomg story short no issues remained..

THE CONCERN:

Maybe a week later it began to warm up outside considerably so she of couese tries using the AC. I heard she was complaining about it not being really cold or that it worked some times which was vague at best so it went about 2 weeks untouched.

She stated it works sometimes and usually at the start up every mornkng for just a few moments then ambient temp air.


So i began looking into this.

DUPLICATING FAILURE/CONCERN:

Verified AC operation was intermittent at best,
- clutch engages and prodcues chilled air directly after initial start up or after extended periods of not running such as leaving work on lunch break..... After either INCREASING rpms or vehicle motion the A/C comprssor disengages at random even with A/C button ON, blowers full blast on high/ middle vents and temp to COLD thus duplicating the concern.

- I noticed on rare occasions A/C operation / temp output will work completely fine even while driving, toggling A/C compressor on / off, shut down and start up of engine.
- Also I have noticed A/C operation (Compressor) engages randomly sometimes during normal driving for just a few moments or sometimes longer.......


- I believe my A/C system has adequate pressure / refrigerant & PAG oil. (To cheap to take it to a shop - and to cheap to purchase some manifold gauges to see).....
- I know my compressor clutch gap is adequate otherwise these issues would be more consistent and slowly worsening. Not suddenly indicate an issue.
- I know there are no stored/active faults on the (PCM ONLY) i have a cheapo OBD reader from 2007......lol. Cant figure out what scan tool and programs i need to do software checks/tests and look at module operation and readings

---- i uploaded the only TSB icould find relating to my issues and this is what i found lol. However the description of issues <<< like my cooling fans running NON STOP >>> which i neglected to mention are for the most part accurate except the blower operation.....

My fan controls or even actually ALL my HVAC interface knobs, buttons, etc are in working order. Even the heat (blend door, etc) are all in working order other than the A/C button light working but no cold air afterwards.....

I have inspected my ambient air temp sensor, evaporator temp sensor (that is inserted ontop the evaporator housing under the passenger's side dash behind the glove box to the left next to the blower speed board i believe) -- i also snipped the plastic U shaped part off on the end of the sensor near the probe / cleaned it up a touch and reinstalled along with verifying the connectors condition.

I also inspected the A/C system externally and found no obvious signs of damage or leaks even with my UV light. I removed the shrader cap on high side and a touch of built up pressure behind the cap bled off indicating along with randomly cold air that refrigerant was present and had decent pressure atleast (not sure of proper pressure since no gauges to use)...... Inspected condenser up front and found no blockage or damage. Transmission temp is always with in spec...... Pressure sensor ontop of the drier was good for the most part (HAVENT TESTED INDIVIDUAL SENSORS AS TECHNICAL MANUAL WALKS YOU THROUGH TESTS, PINOUTS, AND OPERATIONAL CHECKS VIA A SPECIFIC TOOL & SOFTWARE ------ Vehicle Communication Module (VCM) & Integrated Diagnostics System (IDS) with appropriate software Or equivalent scan tool................

What scanner / program do i get so i can get into my cars electronics to do proper testing???

Conclusion :

I need you help, ideas, input...... AND im trying to search for other likelihood failures. Not settle with the horrible idea that the desicant bag blewbup into the TXV and contaminating the evaporator..............


HELP GUYS ( & GALS)!!!!

Thanks a ton everyone! Lets hear your thoughts!




I'm new to forums, hopefully I'm doing this right. Cdub87, just curious if you were experiencing the same problems I am.
 

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Wife's car has this same issue. Also issue with the fan blower speed.

Should I get a new resistor, Evap valve, drier and bring them to a shop and have the pressure tested and those items replaced?

Could the Evap valve stuck open cause pressure on the head?
 

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Most shops frown upon the customer purchasing parts. Yes, partly because it cuts into their profit margin, but more to the fact that they deal with parts and a reliable shop is less likely to throw in a cheap after market that won't hold up. The resistor in question should be a relatively easy fix, but might not be the only problem with the blower. I'd recommend getting them to look at it, and have them give you their estimate on the repair and go from there.
 

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My Fiance has a 2010 escape. Her air is intermittently cold and I have been looking at doing this repair. I plan on also buying the expansion valve and replacing that while at in it. What is the difference between the receiver drier and the accumulator?

I have found both of these parts:

Dryer
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-YF-37237-C-Receiver-Drier/dp/B009TL1YUQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494887018&sr=8-2&keywords=2010+ford+escape+receiver+dryer[/ame]

Accumulator
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-0210136-Accumulator/dp/B00K6BGNHM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8[/ame]

They look like almost the same part with a big differance in price. Can anyone point me to the correct part?

Also when I make this change is there anything else I should do or clean as a preventative measure? I am hoping the rest of the system is not damaged.

Thank you.
 

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They are the same thing. I don't know about the quality of the Spectra, but I know the Motorcraft has a good reputation. Generally, unless I'm positive about the quality, I shoot for a middle price.
 

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My Fiance has a 2010 escape. Her air is intermittently cold and I have been looking at doing this repair. I plan on also buying the expansion valve and replacing that while at in it. What is the difference between the receiver drier and the accumulator?

I have found both of these parts:

Dryer
https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-YF-37237-C-Receiver-Drier/dp/B009TL1YUQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494887018&sr=8-2&keywords=2010+ford+escape+receiver+dryer

Accumulator
https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-0210136-Accumulator/dp/B00K6BGNHM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

They look like almost the same part with a big differance in price. Can anyone point me to the correct part?

Also when I make this change is there anything else I should do or clean as a preventative measure? I am hoping the rest of the system is not damaged.

Thank you.
I just spent the better part of today figuring out what tools to get and what parts to get and where to get it at the best price.Ended up going with Yellow Jacket tools and Motorcraft parts. This accumulator vs receiver drier thing stumped me too. I just ordered the receiver drier because I read somewhere that it is the what you need if there is an expansion valve. Hopefully I got that right?! Now I have the tools and parts ordered and I just need to order fluids.
 

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Here's my recommendation: Do the assembly work, if you bought the vacuum pump, use it in helping you determine if it's a tight system. If you haven't bought one, don't. Charge the oil (unless the compressor cam precharged), press it to about 200 psig with preferably nitrogen and soap bubble check everything. Usually, I bring ti up in stages and leak check at 25%, 50%, then at full pressure. Vent it and find a garage to evacuate it and charge it. Charging with the cans you get in the store stand the chance of getting air into the system. Typically 134A comes in 30 lb jugs and will run you about $140.
 
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