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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The vehicle in question is a 2009 Ford Focus SE with a Duratec 2.0L DOHC engine with 128,000 Km. The symptom is the engine stalls in drive with the engine at idle speed. Whenever you are at a stop sign or a traffic light or a drive thru are all prime candidates to set up for the stall to occur. The engine RPM starts to drop off and then it quits. It only does it when it's near or at operating temp. It has no effect whether the A/C is on or off. It has been going on for 2 months now. It use to stall 1 to 2 times a day in the beginning and for the last month now it's nothing to take a 10 min. drive to the store and have it quit 4 or 5 times before you get home. When placed back into park and turning the key, the engine fires right up and away you go. The car has been well maintained and I have replaced the plugs at 93,000 Km that were purchased from the local Ford dealership. I had it to the dealership when the check engine light finally came on a couple of times when it stalled. There were no DTC's stored in the memory and it passed all tests using the dealerships scan tools. The Mass air flow sensor was substituted with a known good one with no change to the stalling problem. If you never had to stop the vehicle you would never know there is an issue. Any ideas would be much appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No idea. I don't think the tech took a reading. Perhaps this is something that may have been overlooked! It was likely assumed to be OK since conditions that demand much more of the fuel pump don't present a problem. However the fact is that I still have a stalling issue that hasn't been addressed yet. Maybe taking a fuel pressure reading might be of some value. Is there any specific way to test out of the ordinary testing procedures that I need to be aware of? PS. Thanks for the reply CatSkinner:smile2:
 

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I don't think there's a fuel pressure tap on your model, I understand that there's a kit that you can get to install one, but I'd look a little deeper before modifying you fuel delivery. Besides, I was looking more at the fuel filter than pump. It might be worth buying a scanner and trying to catch it with the next time a CEL comes on, other wise you're going to be chasing your tail.
 

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Test you can do.
When rpm begin to drop off, can you increase RPM(foot on accelerator) and stop it from stalling?
If so throttle may not be returning to correct idle position.
Has a throttle cleaning ever been done?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sorry for the slow response, I have been busy finishing a machining course. CatSkinner: You are correct there is no Schrader valve on the rail to hook up a gauge. There is also no in line fuel filter only a so called lifetime filter which is serviced as part of the fuel pump module (inside tank). The check engine light never comes on when it stalls, other than twice which is over 2 months ago. I held off taking it to the dealer thinking that it must have set a DTC, however it did not. The check engine light went out immediately after restarting the car both times. I wish it would set a code so you could pick it up with the scan tool. cj1: Yes, if you are quick enough you can prevent a stall by pressing a little on the accelerator pedal. Yes, I did do the throttle body cleaning procedure and it didn't help. I also thru in another set of spark plugs, however that didn't fix it either. R.S.LOGAN: Thanks for those great links. I watched them both and then followed them both to a T. including the throttle relearning procedure. I did not do that after I cleaned the throttle body. The car stalled right after I turned around from the test drive. It's too bad an electronic throttle body was so expensive, otherwise I would install a new one and take my chances. At this point I am not sure what my next plan is going to be! Thanks everyone for the help so far with this matter!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes, I did find that an interesting coincidence! I think the next chance I get I am going to try a throttle body. I will post the results with my findings. Thanks CatSkinner for the link.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update: I have swapped out a know good Electonic Throttle Body. Also performed the throttle relearning procedure once again. Have been using it for 3 weeks now and there is absolutely no change in my issue. Still stalls just like before at an idle or in drive while sitting at a stop sign or a set of traffic lights. ?? Not sure what my next move will be? Just wanted to post an update :crying:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
UPDATE: I gained access to an OTC 6550 Master Fuel Injection Kit. I performed a fuel pump test. Results are. KOEO=50psi. KOER=58psi. (spec is 55psi @ idle) Also performed a leak down test which resulted in a drop of 5psi after 20 minutes of KOEO. Also performed a Fuel Volume test with engine idling resulting in 24oz in 30 seconds while the fuel pressure dropped to 25psi. during this time. The only spec I could find in the shop manual was the 55psi @ idle speed. I have also purchased a 3130e Innova scan tool to read codes and monitor live data. I continued to monitor the fuel pressure while the engine warmed up to operating temp. During this time all accessories were turned off. I was monitoring the ECT and it wasn't until it got up to 200F that the engine stumbles once and almost stalled, but it didn't. Then it got up to 215F and it did another stumble and almost stalled again, but it didn't. I have noticed that it seems when the engine warms up to a point were the idle speed goes down to 700 RPM that's when trouble starts. I am convinced that if the throttle body had a hard stop screw for base idle all I would have to do is to give it a 1/4 turn and my problem would be fixed. If the car idled at 750 or 800 RPM I am convinced that the car would not stall. Also I have noticed that once the car is warmed up and I turn on the rear defrost/car seat warmers that is enough to cause the car to stumble and then actually stall. If I turn on the heater the A/C engages and it's not long that the engine stumbles and then stalls also. Even if you place the car in drive at idle without accessories on that is enough to drop the idle speed that much and it will stall. During all of these engine stalls, the fuel pressure never dropped off of 58psi. If you drive around with the heater on and have to come to a stop or even a drive thru it will stall every time. I have come to discover if I place the transmission in neutral it seldom stalls. What a pain in the rear to have to drive this way. I wonder what the normal idle speed for a Focus is suppose to be at operating temp. when in park or neutral. I would like to know that? I have since checked for any DTC's present and there isn't any. Also performed on demand tests and it passes. Hopefully someone will have some more advise or things to try? :smile2:
 

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Switching on electrics seems to have an adverse effect on the fault .Not the original battery is it ? has it been replaced ? What ever , worth getting battery and alternator load tested .
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
R.S.LOGAN. I have indeed installed a new Ford Motorcraft battery about 4 months ago. While performing a charging & starter draw test there was a drop in the CCA rating of the battery by appox. 30% . Since the battery was OEM and with winter approaching I replaced it. I went with the better of the 2 choices. The starter and alternator test was good with no amps ripple from the alternator. I don't think it's related to the electrical system. I just made a note that whenever you put a slight load on the engine at operating temp. when its idling @ 700 RPM that is enouph to stall the engine. When the alternator takes a bit more HP to spin it that causes a stall. Just like when the A/C clutch cuts in that is also enough. Likely if I put a load on the power steering pump by turning the wheel it would stall, if I disconnected the pressure switch which increases the RPM at an idle. Is there any way to increase the base idle by 100 RPM?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Catskinner: I am 100% not losing any power whatsoever. I will post my findings after the weekend which is when I have time to work on it. Is there a component test I can do on the Idle Air Control ? Bert: I will try running the vehicle with the Mass Air Flow Sensor disconnected. I have already tried cleaning it with mass air flow sensor cleaner. Also after no results, I had my Ford Tech install a test MAF sensor from his tool box and I ran the car for 3 weeks and during that time the engine kept stalling as usual.
 
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