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Hey guys, I sorry for the late response. I ended up taking it to the dealer since I did everything I can do on my end and local mechanics said they would've done exactly what I did. Anyways, dealer said $160 and they'll diagnose it. A week later they call me saying they did a basic compression test and cylinder 1 was showing a leak. They said they will have to do a deeper diagnosis which is an additional $300, I told them I'll pass. But if thats the case, I'm afraid I'm going to have to say my car is done :frown2:

Hope no one else with this code ends up like me.....thanks for all the help though
 

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It shows a leak, but not the source. Could be as simple as a head gasket.
 
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I have a 2010 Mercury Mariner Premier with the 2.5 engine.
First I noticed that my fuel mileage was dropping.
Then, I started getting a misfire code. I tried all the quick things, as well as switching the suspect coil to a new cylinder and moving the spark plugs to see if the problem moved to a new cylinder. No luck.
After reading this thread, I checked compression finding that the cylinder which had the misfire was low on compression, like 30 lbs. I did a bleed down test finding that the cylinder had an exhaust valve leaking. I picked up a book at the auto parts store and read up a little on this engine. It looked more complicated than the older cars I've typically worked on, but have an extensive background in marine engines and thought I could do it.

What a totally different engine!!
The Chilton repair manual for that engine sucks. I ended up buying the ford shop manual online for $59.99 at https://www.factory-manuals.com. I ended up getting over 6500 pages of factory literature which made the difference for me.

I replaced all the exhaust valves and ended up having to grind the bucket shims back into spec. Timing the cams with the crank shaft and front pulley was very difficult. Mainly because of the special tools needed to do it. The tools to align the cams and crank are readily available, but the tool to hold the crank is like $240.00 to buy. Some guys say you can hold the flywheel side instead of using the crank holding tool, but I still had the engine in the car. I ended up making the holding tool, which took a while. My first try to tighten the crank bolt didn't work and the timing was off, so I had to do it again, that time it all lined up after rechecking.
Here is where I'm at. The vehicle is all reassembled and ready to go accept that I am waiting to get a new crank sensor because I need the tool that comes with it. The tool by itself runs about $90.00 or so. I talked to the people at the auto part store I go to and they said as long as I don't actually install the new sensor, that I can use the alignment tool it comes with and then return it only having to pay for the shipping of less than $10.00.

Then, I have to take the vehicle to a shop or dealer that can do a "NEUTRAL PROFILE CORRECTION" which resets the crank sensor. At this point, I have no idea how much that will cost.

In total, I am still less than $1000.00 because I did all the work, but it's been WAY more labor than I expected.
 

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You are better to raise a new post rather than tag on to an old one .It gets better exposure that way .

Welcome to the forum .
 

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Hello, I am also a marine mechanic and new to the Ford forum, but I am having the same issue with the cylinder one misfire code and rumbling with brake torque and at certain RPM levels except I have a good compression, although my number one cylinder spark plug looks like it came out of a two stroke outboard engine
 

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That was an old post responding to an older post. You might want to start a new post.
 

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Yes I am getting a cyl 1 misfire code. Changed plugs. You cannot mix cyl 1 with cyl 2 coil wires. Still getting same cyl 1 misfire after swapping coils and fuel injectors. Vibration is noticable when driving at about 50 when trans shifts and rpms are low. Throttle engine while doing 50 vibration goes away.
Yes I am getting a cyl 1 misfire code. Changed plugs. You cannot mix cyl 1 with cyl 2 coil wires. Still getting same cyl 1 misfire after swapping coils and fuel injectors. Vibration is noticable when driving at about 50 when trans shifts and rpms are low. Throttle engine while doing 50 vibration goes away.
Im having these same problems on my 2010, do you remember what the fix was? I mean same exact problem word for word.
 

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I know this is an old thread, but did anyone find a solution to this??? Have a 2012 escape, same engine same issue (cylinder 1 misfire), replaced all spark plugs and coils and still happening. What do I do?

Thanks
I also am having the exact same issue, changed plugs swapped coils and injectors, ran compression test all good. Still P0301
 

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Hey all... I have a 2009 Escape 2.5l that has the exact same symptoms as mentioned above. P0301 cyclinder 1 misfire, studdering around 55 mph. Has anyone found a fix for it?

I have checked the coil, plugs, injector.

Thanks,
Paul
I’ve got these same exact issues and can’t find a cure, has anyone figured out what is causing this? I’ve done all the basics and a compressed test
 

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I’ve got these same exact issues and can’t find a cure, has anyone figured out what is causing this? I’ve done all the basics and a compressed test
Any luck finding a solution? I'm having the same exact problem word for word. Checked and replaced all the basic stuff. From what I've been reading it's not always 100% accurate that the misfire is on the cylinder that the computer is saying, especially on inline engines. Today I'm going to check the injectors on either side of the #2 cylinder, pull the intake again and check the gaskets, pull the valve cover and check for any broken springs or anything out of the ordinary.

Does anyone know a good diagnostics app that I can see fuel trims?
 

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Any luck finding a solution? I'm having the same exact problem word for word. Checked and replaced all the basic stuff. From what I've been reading it's not always 100% accurate that the misfire is on the cylinder that the computer is saying, especially on inline engines. Today I'm going to check the injectors on either side of the #2 cylinder, pull the intake again and check the gaskets, pull the valve cover and check for any broken springs or anything out of the ordinary.

Does anyone know a good diagnostics app that I can see fuel trims?
Any luck finding a solution? I'm having the same exact problem word for word. Checked and replaced all the basic stuff. From what I've been reading it's not always 100% accurate that the misfire is on the cylinder that the computer is saying, especially on inline engines. Today I'm going to check the injectors on either side of the #2 cylinder, pull the intake again and check the gaskets, pull the valve cover and check for any broken springs or anything out of the ordinary.

Does anyone know a good diagnostics app that I can see fuel trims?
Check your timing chain tension. I’ve went through all the basics, compression, swapping injectors and coils to different cylinders still getting same codes.took to dealer and all they could tell me was my chain was very loose. They wouldn’t change it for me due to the miles. So I ordered a chain kit and taking to an independent shop.
 

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I'm a old retired technician, first thing I would have done it take a compression test and cylinder leak down test after checking coils, plugs, and injectors. If your compression is good, coils, plugs, and injectors are good then you may have a bad ECM. I know many times if you have a weak coil it will take out the ECM. Get a reman, just make sure you can return it if it doesn't solve the problem, only takes a few minutes to replace it. Make sure you get keys programmed to the new ECM. Also, recommend replacing all the coils.
 

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I'm a old retired technician, first thing I would have done it take a compression test and cylinder leak down test after checking coils, plugs, and injectors. If your compression is good, coils, plugs, and injectors are good then you may have a bad ECM. I know many times if you have a weak coil it will take out the ECM. Get a reman, just make sure you can return it if it doesn't solve the problem, only takes a few minutes to replace it. Make sure you get keys programmed to the new ECM. Also, recommend replacing all the coils.
Whenever I did my compression test I got 150-142-160-160 and the cylinder with 142psi is the one giving me the misfire code. Whatever it is feels electrical, occasionally the engine will run normal and the miss will clear up.

Think it could just be low compression? Or maybe cam or crank sensor? I've only gotten the cylinder 2 misfire code and they why I haven't changed the cam or crank sensor, just figured it would give random misfires or a sensor code if it was bad.
 

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ive ran compression and the dealer tested the pcm. All came back good
Whenever I did my compression test I got 150-142-160-160 and the cylinder with 142psi is the one giving me the misfire code. Whatever it is feels electrical, occasionally the engine will run normal and the miss will clear up.

Think it could just be low compression? Or maybe cam or crank sensor? I've only gotten the cylinder 2 misfire code and they why I haven't changed the cam or crank sensor, just figured it would give random misfires or a sensor code if it was bad.
 

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Whenever I did my compression test I got 150-142-160-160 and the cylinder with 142psi is the one giving me the misfire code. Whatever it is feels electrical, occasionally the engine will run normal and the miss will clear up.

Think it could just be low compression? Or maybe cam or crank sensor? I've only gotten the cylinder 2 misfire code and they why I haven't changed the cam or crank sensor, just figured it would give random misfires or a sensor code if it was bad.
With those compression readings it could be a head gasket that is failing between those 2 cylinders which will generally cause a engine misfire and sometimes other symptoms. When it fails between cylinders, compression from one cylinder leaks into another.
 

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I have a 2010 Mercury Mariner Premier with the 2.5 engine.
First I noticed that my fuel mileage was dropping.
Then, I started getting a misfire code. I tried all the quick things, as well as switching the suspect coil to a new cylinder and moving the spark plugs to see if the problem moved to a new cylinder. No luck.

After reading this thread, I checked compression finding that the cylinder which had the misfire was low on compression, like 30 lbs. I did a bleed down test finding that the cylinder had an exhaust valve leaking. I picked up a book at the auto parts store and read up a little on this engine. It looked more complicated than the older cars I've typically worked on, but have an extensive background in marine engines and thought I could do it.


What a totally different engine!!
The Chilton repair manual for that engine sucks. I ended up buying the ford shop manual online for $59.99 at factory-manuals.com. I ended up getting over 6500 pages of factory literature which made the difference for me.



I replaced all the exhaust valves and ended up having to grind the bucket shims back into spec. Timing the cams with the crank shaft and front pulley was very difficult. Mainly because of the special tools needed to do it. The tools to align the cams and crank are readily available, but the tool to hold the crank is like $240.00 to buy. Some guys say you can hold the flywheel side instead of using the crank holding tool, but I still had the engine in the car. I ended up making the holding tool, which took a while. My first try to tighten the crank bolt didn't work and the timing was off, so I had to do it again, that time it all lined up after rechecking.
Here is where I'm at. The vehicle is all reassembled and ready to go accept that I am waiting to get a new crank sensor because I need the tool that comes with it. The tool by itself runs about $90.00 or so. I talked to the people at the auto part store I go to and they said as long as I don't actually install the new sensor, that I can use the alignment tool it comes with and then return it only having to pay for the shipping of less than $10.00.

Then, I have to take the vehicle to a shop or dealer that can do a "NEUTRAL PROFILE CORRECTION" which resets the crank sensor. At this point, I have no idea how much that will cost.

In total, I am still less than $1000.00 because I did all the work, but it's been WAY more labor than I expected.
For more information about shocks for bike rack for ford escape please visit the website here Best Bike Rack for Ford Escape: Top-selling Products
I have the same car I have misfire on #3 so I replaced spark and coils with original parts but still misfire on 3 what else can be?
 

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Leakdown test confirmed it was a bad cylinder and was leaking from the exhaust valves. Pulled the engine last week and sent the top and bottom end to the machine shop to get looked at and I ended up having a bent exhaust valve and a bad seat in another, the bottom end looked fantastic with minimal cylinder wear and no machining was needed. I ended up replaced everything in the head except for the cams because of the high failure rate. Got it all back together a few days ago and it couldn't be running any better than it is right now.
 

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The engine is noted for having valve problems that show as a lumpy idle. Compression values will be lower, but not 'out of range', or barely so. The solution is to do a valve job, or install a re-man cylinder head.
The bottom end is good and strong, but the valves have a tendency to burn at mileage below 100k.
tom
 
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