[CatSkinner]

I have the same car I have misfire on #3 so I replaced spark and coils with original parts but still misfire on 3 what else can be?

Fouled fuel injector, vacuum leak, leaky valve, bad rings, best bet is to look at the spark plugs, they tell most of the story.

 

[Diesel_guy90]

Fouled fuel injector, vacuum leak, leaky valve, bad rings, best bet is to look at the spark plugs, they tell most of the story.

Are valves a problem on these engines or rings with high miles?

 

[tomw]

Valve problems in the 80k range is not uncommon. Not all, but some. The bottom end is pretty strong and reliable from what I understand. I suspect many get turned in for new when the problem occurs, as people are unfamiliar with the term 'valve job'. Usta was a 'valve job' was not unusual in the life of a normal vehicle.
Now with computer controlled fuel and spark, adding turbo boosting, nothing controlled by the driver except fuel grade and gas pedal, and it may be people just work them harder.
tom

 

[Diesel_guy90]

Valve problems in the 80k range is not uncommon. Not all, but some. The bottom end is pretty strong and reliable from what I understand. I suspect many get turned in for new when the problem occurs, as people are unfamiliar with the term 'valve job'. Usta was a 'valve job' was not unusual in the life of a normal vehicle.
Now with computer controlled fuel and spark, adding turbo boosting, nothing controlled by the driver except fuel grade and gas pedal, and it may be people just work them harder.
tom

I’ve got 238k on mine and I think it’s got a bad head gasket or valve and or seat. Gonna find a good used engine and replace

 

[tomw]

diesel... good luck. They are not very available in the boneyards. Give having your cylinder head refurbished or getting a re-man cylinder head if your short block is in reasonable condition. Things to check, IMO, would be compression and whether it is good 'dry' or with a dash of oil put in each cylinder to gauge ring condition, and oil pressure using an actual gauge, cold @ idle, hot @ idle and running at highway rpms, and finally how quickly does the pressure drop to zero after shutdown. Those should give you a reasonable gauge about ring and bearing condition in the short block. You could even have a leakdown test done if you want to get an actual number on ring/cylinder wall condition. In many cases, the 'bottom end' of the engine is fine, but the cylinder head problematic.
I expect a lot of E's have gone to an early retirement due to this fairly common problem. People just don't want to take the time, and would rather be in debt for 5-6-7 years on a new vehicle than have a few months pain on the CC and have a repair done. Their choice, but if the rest of the vehicle is in good condition, seems to be a waste to retire it prematurely. My newest, Mariner, is a 2007. FWIW.
tom

 

[Diesel_guy90]

diesel... good luck. They are not very available in the boneyards. Give having your cylinder head refurbished or getting a re-man cylinder head if your short block is in reasonable condition. Things to check, IMO, would be compression and whether it is good 'dry' or with a dash of oil put in each cylinder to gauge ring condition, and oil pressure using an actual gauge, cold @ idle, hot @ idle and running at highway rpms, and finally how quickly does the pressure drop to zero after shutdown. Those should give you a reasonable gauge about ring and bearing condition in the short block. You could even have a leakdown test done if you want to get an actual number on ring/cylinder wall condition. In many cases, the 'bottom end' of the engine is fine, but the cylinder head problematic.
I expect a lot of E's have gone to an early retirement due to this fairly common problem. People just don't want to take the time, and would rather be in debt for 5-6-7 years on a new vehicle than have a few months pain on the CC and have a repair done. Their choice, but if the rest of the vehicle is in good condition, seems to be a waste to retire it prematurely. My newest, Mariner, is a 2007. FWIW.
tom

I’ve looked on car-part.com and have found hundreds in my area. From anywhere of $200-400. Probably gonna be cheaper then replacing the top end.

 

[Diesel_guy90]

Hey all... I have a 2009 Escape 2.5l that has the exact same symptoms as mentioned above. P0301 cyclinder 1 misfire, studdering around 55 mph. Has anyone found a fix for it?

I have checked the coil, plugs, injector.

Thanks,
Paul

The valves end up going bad. I just replaced the engine in mine for this exact problem after going through all the troubleshooting I could think of. Replacing the engine solved the problem

 

[Diesel_guy90]

I’ve looked on car-part.com and have found hundreds in my area. From anywhere of $200-400. Probably gonna be cheaper then replacing the top end.

I replaced the engine and it took care of my issue. Found one in the boneyard for $250

 

[R.S.LOGAN]

Thanks for updating the forum , good you got it fixed .

 

[YesSir]

Thanks for updating the forum , good you got it fixed .

Thanks for updating the forum , good you got it fixed .

Put 3/4 bottle sea foam in half tank of gas and with vehicle running suck up 1/4 bottle in vaccum hose, dont let it stall, use a friend to help. Valve is not seating properly. Worked on my jeep liberty. Hope this helps. cheers