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2011 Ford Taurus SEL MODEL

926 Views 30 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Janjanlew1959
Hey all,
Question please hope someone can answer. My Taurus has had so many repairs but I love my car and will keep it.
69,000 th miles.
Throttle bottle and pedal replacement
$ 852.79 replaced on February 14, 2023.
Mechanic tried to fix it but the error code is the large blue wrench and check engine light still on.
Have to bring it in at the end of the month to my Ford Dealer.
When I start the car the break pedal is to the floor, it revs up and when I place the shift in drive it wants to take off by itself at a rapid speed. I then shut the car off and it makes a big thump.

I was going to disconnect my battery and connect it again to see if that works but I don’t want to erase the codes.
My Ford dealership is so busy that they could only give me an appointment at the end of the month.
Thoughts please ?
Thank you for reading.
JK
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You are always better to fit OEM parts . There are a lot of non genuine Ford parts from abroad that are not up to standard and can cause problems after fitting . I have had cars where such parts have been fitted and owners thought it cant be that now as is " new " part fitted . Taking it off and fitting genuine part cured the fault . If the parts fitted by your mechanic are faulty he should return to them to AutoZone under warranty for refund and then reimburse you the cost
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Thank you and I agree. I am not happy at all considering this mechanic put me in danger because first:
1. He should have known better.
2. He use to be a Ford mechanic but has his own business now dealing with Trucks and Wheels only.
3. He gave me a receipt without any part numbers.
4. He did not warrantee his work.
5. He failed to fix it two times and I was told to go to Ford for an update which I did.
6. He blamed it on me saying there must be an electrical issue.
7. My car was breaking down at the very least two times a day everyday until I was afraid to drive it anymore. I was on the highway and it was going into limp mode.
He won’t call me nor respond to my messages.
If he still refuses to get in touch with me I have no problem going to small claims court. If the approved Ford part is put in and I have no issues we know it’s still a faulty part from AutoZone.
I don’t understand why he refuses to comprehend my issue and not resolve it like an adult so I will copy this link and send it to him. Maybe if it’s in black and white he may finally see the light.
8. Email sent after the fact that it was still breaking down shortly after he fixed it twice, I have that saved on my phone as I could not reach him and sent it to someone else instead. I said if this is not resolved I am going to put a stop payment on my credit card and dispute the charges.
I feel I have been fair but by him ignoring me is not cool. Back home we call those type of people con artists.
Thanks again for responding I do appreciate it very much.
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Whether you can get refunded depends on if the part(s) in question are indeed defective and can be proven so.
Often times what the code scanner shows vs what is really wrong are 2 totally different things.

The dealer mechanic could replace the throttle body and accelerator and 2 days later the same problem may show up again.
Point being is it sounds like you're dealing with parts changers, not mechanics, and I've seen many dealer "mechanics"
who'll also throw parts at a problem based solely on what they see on the scanner without actually diagnosing the underlying problem.
Sounds like this is what you're dealing with.

That said, I've used aftermarket parts with no issues, including engine sensors, brake pads and rotors, calipers, boosters, suspension and steering parts, etc.
However, if I had to replace a timing chain, guides, cam phasers, anything that could cause a catastrophic failure in the engine, then I go with Ford parts.

What was the cause of the brake issue? Did they tell you?
I don't mean to sound harsh, far from it, just trying to help best I can without actually being there.
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The Ford Dealership man ( I have known him for 12 years - my go to place ) did not mentioned the break pedal. After it was towed he went to the lot to retrieve it and drove it. I said: what the heck man, how did you get that to drive ?” I was on the side of the road for hours and the break pedal was stuck. He said it started right up. 5 codes showed but I did not ask what they were.
He programmed the vehicle, the engine light was off and I drove it home.
The next day I started it up, pulled over to chat and shut the car off. A short time later I started the car back up and it reved up so fast as though I was holding the pedal to the floor in which I was not. I called Ford and brought it back. The Ford mechanic ran the codes but I did not see them all but I did catch one code: P2014 he was looking it up on the computer. He called out the mechanic supervisor and they looked under the hood and they can only determine a new throttle body to be ordered to see if that solves the problem.
I feel it may be electrical, just my gut feeling. I run a Bluetooth charger from my cigg lighter port for my phone and leave it in and do not take it out. I mentioned that to Ford and he went hmmmm that is such a low voltage charger that should not be the cause.
I looked up the P2014 code and I can’t make heads nor tails out of it. So lost here, absolutely heartbreaking.
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Has to do with air volume going into the intake. The code is pointing to intake runner control voltage.
This is a new one to me. Looks like a secondary throttle that helps controls, or micro manage airflow through the intake...
...probably there for emissions or to squeeze a little more mpg. Never saw anything like this on earlier cars.
A few things can cause this: runner control/motor assembly might need cleaning, or worn out, vacuum leak can also cause this code...
...drawing too much air and the flap is closed, hence the voltage fault because it's not able to compensate.
The brake pedal probably corrected itself (temporarily) when the car was started.
I would keep on them about that, and tell them everything you mentioned here.
Whether you can get refunded depends on if the part(s) in question are indeed defective and can be proven so.
Often times what the code scanner shows vs what is really wrong are 2 totally different things.

The dealer mechanic could replace the throttle body and accelerator and 2 days later the same problem may show up again.
Point being is it sounds like you're dealing with parts changers, not mechanics, and I've seen many dealer "mechanics"
who'll also throw parts at a problem based solely on what they see on the scanner without actually diagnosing the underlying problem.
Sounds like this is what you're dealing with.

That said, I've used aftermarket parts with no issues, including engine sensors, brake pads and rotors, calipers, boosters, suspension and steering parts, etc.
However, if I had to replace a timing chain, guides, cam phasers, anything that could cause a catastrophic failure in the engine, then I go with Ford parts.

What was the cause of the brake issue? Did they tell you?
I don't mean to sound harsh, far from it, just trying to help best I can without actually being there.
When I ran different dealerships , we obviously used OEM parts and covered them with warranty . When I had my own place I often used non OEM parts from known good suppliers / makes with no problems . One day years back , a parts manager was in my office trying to drum up business and seen me with genuine part in my hand and asked how much I paid for it from the dealership . When I told him he said that is our part we supply to them and can sell the same part to me for a third of the price , unfortunately we were paying for the manufacturers name and packaging . This was often the case with many other parts like brake pads , shoes etc. you could get the same spec and quality pads as OEM a lot cheaper .
I've found the " parts changers " were usually the smaller , independent , often unqualified garages who would keep on fitting parts they guessed were faulty at the customers expense . If we fitted a part we diagnosed as faulty and the cause of problem and it was not that , we would not charge the customer and replace the original part f.o.c . Diagnosing the results correctly , with proper equipment , of what shows in scans is a skill and a big step in working on todays vehicles . Todays vehicles are so complex with electrics , systems etc . unless you are up to date with proper diagnostic equipment you are wasting your time .You have to invest in the proper tools / gear
One of the biggest failures that are recurring nowadays is with cheap , foreign sensors , like MAF and O2 sensors . An example is one GM car in particular that is well known wont run on these MAF sensors if not original .
Ever invoice we gave to customers was itemised and detailed with parts fitted and labour costs , taxes , not a single amount . All parts supplied and fitted by us would be warranted and replaced if faulty , free of charge to the customer .
Some unscrupulous garages would fit cheap parts and charge full OEM price to maximise their profit .
Treat the customer right and fairly and your business will flourish with word of mouth from them passing on to others their experience in dealing with you .
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Thank you Dave, I am no expert in cars either this is like putting me in Home Depot vs Child World looking for kids toys. I am sure they are baffled too, hence suggesting a Ford throttle body to start the process all over again and see what happens.

I appreciate all the time and effort you put into this thread Dave. I will certainly keep you posted when it gets fixed. Thanks again.

Jan
Just read my Ford dealer receipt:

LABOR - -

J# 1 10F0Z06

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT

TECH(S) : 310

CUSTOMER STATES CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON WHEN DRIVING

EEC TEST P2100 P2104 P2112 P2111 ALL THROTTLE BODY CODE

CLEAR CODES AND ROAD TEST OK IF THEY RETURN THROTTLE BODY

REPLACEMENT WILL BE NEEDED

219.99
The National Highway Safety Traffic Administration reached out to me wanting every receipt on my Ford Taurus 2011 SEL MODEL FWD.

More notes from my Ford Dealership:


]# 2 10FOZ

DRIVEABILITY

TECH(S): 310

CUSTOMER STATES AFTER HAVING NEW THROTTLE BODY INSTALLED AND

IPS INSTALLED WHEN STARTED THE BRAKE PEDAL WILL BE STUCK,

AND WHEN PUT IN DRIVE VEHICLE WILL ACCEL VERY FAST ON ITS OWN. CLIENT BELIEVES TPS AND THROTTLE BODY WERE NOT PROGRAMMED WHEN INSTALLED PLEASE CHECK AND ADVISE UNABLE TO DUPLICATE CONCERN

I did fill it out and scanned it back via email to:

[email protected]

[email protected]
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Codes indicate the throttle position and the gas pedal position wasn't matching.
Could be anything from gas pedal sensor to throttle motor, or circuitry in between, or throttle plate sticking given the codes listed.
A big vacuum leak can trick the 'puter as well.

Of course they weren't able to get the brake pedal to stick as it decided to behave itself around the mechanic...usually how it goes.

Normally, the TPS, throttle body don't require programming as they're typically plug n play.
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Thank you Dave for your help, appreciate your views and wisdom very much.

I need to pay for an additional throttle body OEM PART I believe, the part is on back order. For now I can only drive short distances.

Hoping with enough complaints on this issue, quite possibly there may be a recall.

Thank you again.
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