How much parasitic drain is normal for these? Currently it is around .2 amps but I have heard it should be closer to 50mA . The only way I have been able to get even close to that is by disconnecting the BCM. Any guidance would be appreciated.
I'm not the best on electrics , someone else might chime in . On checking , seems to be a common fault on Fiesta round about that year . Another suggestion from someone with the same fault , a lot solved with software updates .
" If you have a Sony radio do not switch off using on/off button when leaving car. When you open the door the radio should switch itself off. This is a known fault that leads to a flat battery over time and I believe a software fix is available."
This guy has a few good hints / tips for fixing parasitic drains , especially near the end .
The car was dropped off at the dealer this morning around 7:30. They called around 9 to let me know that there is no parasitic drain but the issue is because the battery does not have enough cold cranking amps so therefore it is bad and needs to be replaced.
This makes no sense at all to me, sure the battery may be bad because it is being drained continuously but for them to say there is no drain did not add up.
I pressed a little more and was told that they saw a 2mA drain when they tested it so that is not the problem. I tested this with two different, brand new, multi-meter's and got the same results of a .2amp drain. Now, either they do not know how to perform the test or they do not how to read a multi-meter and convert amps to miliamps .
I am going to take my multi-meter with me when I pick it up tonight and test it right there in the dealership lot. I kind of hope someone comes out to "help" me.
To be on the safe side I am going to take the battery back to where I bought and have them test it and replace it if necessary but it looks like the issue is going to continue until I can get to a competent shop.
Not sure of the reputation and quality of your shop, where we take our service vehicles, the shop is over whelmed and are prone to take "hip shots" in their diagnosis. I had a range selector switch go awry, I told them it was the range selector, and still had to take it back 3 times, never admitting to have touched it, but the final time in the shop, I made the counter person write down on the sheet "confirm operation of the ragne selector switch". Miraculously, a blown fuse (according to the receipt) had been holding e out the whole time.
We just got back from picking up the car. As I suspected there is still a .2amp draw on the battery. I also did a quick battery test and it appears to be fine, it never went below 10vDC when starting the car. The fleet mechanic at my wife's work has offered to take a look at and he at least talks like he knows what he is doing.
" it never went below 10vDC " Not the most impressive readings , seen a lot better on average . But could be due to overall condition of battery on testing . Interesting to hear how your other guy gets on but a Ford main dealership should have the expertise / diagnostics to solve this and shouldn't neccessitate taking it elsewhere for fixing .
" To be on the safe side I am going to take the battery back to where I bought and have them test it and replace it if necessary "
Good idea , also mention dealearships comments on cold cranking amps .