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Discussion Starter #1
2 liter, turbo, automatic. Check engine light came on and it appears the car went into
limp mode as it presumably thought the car was overheating. The temp gauge remained
normal throughout.
I read that it could be caused by a faulty CHT Coolant Head Temperature sensor
and another similar thread said the cause was a faulty Fuel Pressure Sensor.
Thoughts ?
I mentioned this in that other similar post but my opinion is that it is dangerous
for the car to be thrust into limp mode without any warning. Others may not agree,
but it shook me up a bit and the situation could have been much worse if I were pulling
into busy traffic or something related and suddenly the power was cut in half.
I don't trust this vehicle any more.
 

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Get it scanned and see what fault codes triggered engine check light rather than guess and spend money and time on parts maybe not needed .Why do you suspect " presumably thought the car was overheating " was the cause of going into limp mode ?.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Get it scanned and see what fault codes triggered engine check light rather than guess and spend money and time on parts maybe not needed .Why do you suspect " presumably thought the car was overheating " was the cause of going into limp mode ?.
I should have stated that the mechanic said there were no fault codes at all. Same thing happened to the
guy in the other post...no codes.
I mentioned overheating because the manual says one reason it goes into limp mode
is to cool an overheated vehicle. I cannot find that in the manual right now. It was hard
as heck to find the first time. There's no troubleshooting section in the manual.
There's nothing in the index about "check engine" or codes or error or anything that seems logical.
I'll find it eventually.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Under "Instrument Cluster", pg 87 it says blinking engine light means engine
misfiring is occurring. Then under Maintenance on pg 214 it describes fail safe
cooling which is what happened. It turned off a/c and I assume ran on alternate
cylinders since power dropped dramatically. It did not say on pg 87 that blinking
engine light would enable "Fail-Safe" cooling, but we found that on pg. 215.
It's on pg 214 of a manual I just found online. So maybe there's a newer version
than the printed one we have.
It says: If the engine begins to overheat, the engine coolant temp gauge will move to the red (hot)
area and High engine temp message will appear (and in our case neither of those two things occurred) but it also
says the Service engine soon indicator will illuminate. It did illuminate, but in our case it was flashing and not just illuminated.
It continued... If the engine reaches a preset over-temp condition, the engine will automatically switch to alternating
cylinder operation. Each disabled cylinder acts as an air pump and cools the engine. When this occurs the vehicle will
still operate. However;
* The engine power will be limited
* The air conditioning system will be disabled.
That is exactly what happened, so this description is not correct in a number of ways:
First, on page 87 it says flashing engine light means misfire but it says nothing about then enabling
fail safe cooling mode. It just tells you to slow down or not drive at all.
Fail Safe cooling mode description on pg 215 says both temp and engine lights have to light then
fail safe mode is enabled. It doesn't say engine light flashing and we didn't have temperature light
go on, but we did have fail safe cooling mode occur.
So, this is a bit odd. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
thx.
Here's the url I found about the CHT sensor -
 

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Overheating is a cause of going into limp mode and could be caused by faulty CHT Coolant Head Temperature sensor but there are also so many other possible causes .It also depends on scanner your mechanic checked it out with in regard to codes , this example explains .


FORScan Home
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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Of course losing engine power is dangerous but there are literally hundreds / thousands of possible causes some simple , others not so .Only trying to help you tie down the fault by suggesting getting it scanned with correct Ford equipment .Otherwise your list will be endless. Has it been running o.k since the one time it happened ?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Of course losing engine power is dangerous but there are literally hundreds / thousands of possible causes some simple , others not so .Only trying to help you tie down the fault by suggesting getting it scanned with correct Ford equipment .Otherwise your list will be endless. Has it been running o.k since the one time it happened ?
I had asked the shop if their scanner would produce same results as Ford and they said yes it would.
Is there something I should know about Ford scanners such that I should take to them?
I was considering this - BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005NLQAHS&pd_rd_r=5N995Y4N8XK103A3E8CA&pd_rd_w=SsMDE&pd_rd_wg=jUtp4&psc=1&refRID=5N995Y4N8XK103A3E8CA#Ask[/ame]
Seems very popular. Wondering if anyone has an opinion on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Of course losing engine power is dangerous
Fail Safe Mode is something Ford invokes based on a sensor response. My point is that the vehicle shouldn't
be forced into that mode without warning. In my view, Ford should be fixing this immediately.
Even if Fail Safe Mode gets invoked by a false positive, the feature itself should NEVER just engage
without warning the driver. I feel very strongly about this after it having happened to me.
Actually that brings up a good question. Is there a way to permanently disable Fail Safe Mode?
I'm sure that would invalidate the power train warranty, but I'd prefer safety.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Overheating is a cause of going into limp mode and could be caused by faulty CHT Coolant Head Temperature sensor but there are also so many other possible causes .It also depends on scanner your mechanic checked it out with in regard to codes , this example explains .


FORScan Home
Good to know. We're going to take it to the dealer since the power train
is still under warranty.
Thanks for the info.
 

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You could maybe update the forum of the outcome and any findings by the dealership ? It could possibly help others with similar problems .
 

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" In my view, Ford should be fixing this immediately."

It's not only Ford , it's every manufacturer nowadays who have this installed in their vehicles .
 

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" In my view, Ford should be fixing this immediately."

It's not only Ford , it's every manufacturer nowadays who have this installed in their vehicles .
I'm really surprised that they are like that. Of course in my case and at the moment, I care about what Ford does.
 

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My old manager at my last job had a similar issue with her escape, which I think was the same year. It would overheat and even warped the head. Eventually she brought it to ford where the techs tried everything under the sun for literally months before she said screw it and traded it for a new one.

I wanted to share that just in case ford cant figure it out either, you arent alone. In any case I have my fingers crossed hoping you get resolution.
 

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Two things, first were you driving the car when it happened? Did you find your car stuck in direct drive with about enough power to pull over to the side of the road, capable of maybe 40MPH max ? If that is the case then yes you were in FMEM (Failure Mode Effects Management).
As already stated there should be codes generated whenever your car goes to limp mode. These are Federally Mandated Generic codes that any $30 scanner can pick up. No need for expensive scanners for "Limp Mode" code retrieval.
Secondly, there is a SSM (Special Service Message) for False MIL when restarting after remote start time out. There should be a P0116 ECT code present. This code can be cleared and the vehicle can be driven as normal. Engineering is working on a reprogram flash to correct the issue. They are under the gun because false codes are not acceptable.
I had the P0116 and CEL on after starting the car with the remote starter and allowing it to time out. Upon restart the light was on. The 2014 Titanium Escape drove normally with the CEL on. The dealer wanted $100 check out fee, but I declined and later found SSM 6027 13-15 Ford Escape with CEL + P0116 after Remote Start.
If you were in FMEM I would be inclined to think there was a tow truck involved on your way to the repair shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My old manager at my last job had a similar issue with her escape, which I think was the same year. It would overheat and even warped the head. Eventually she brought it to ford where the techs tried everything under the sun for literally months before she said screw it and traded it for a new one.

I wanted to share that just in case ford cant figure it out either, you arent alone. In any case I have my fingers crossed hoping you get resolution.
Thank you for the information. I'm not sure why I didn't get an email that several of you have updated this thread. I thought I had checked that box in my profile.
Anyway, I'm not sure if this was an overheat condition since there was never any overheat warning light nor did the temp gauge show anything but normal. I think this was more like a false overheat.
 

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Two things, first were you driving the car when it happened? Did you find your car stuck in direct drive with about enough power to pull over to the side of the road, capable of maybe 40MPH max ? If that is the case then yes you were in FMEM (Failure Mode Effects Management).
As already stated there should be codes generated whenever your car goes to limp mode. These are Federally Mandated Generic codes that any $30 scanner can pick up. No need for expensive scanners for "Limp Mode" code retrieval.
Secondly, there is a SSM (Special Service Message) for False MIL when restarting after remote start time out. There should be a P0116 ECT code present. This code can be cleared and the vehicle can be driven as normal. Engineering is working on a reprogram flash to correct the issue. They are under the gun because false codes are not acceptable.
I had the P0116 and CEL on after starting the car with the remote starter and allowing it to time out. Upon restart the light was on. The 2014 Titanium Escape drove normally with the CEL on. The dealer wanted $100 check out fee, but I declined and later found SSM 6027 13-15 Ford Escape with CEL + P0116 after Remote Start.
If you were in FMEM I would be inclined to think there was a tow truck involved on your way to the repair shop.
I'll summarize what the dealer said since they just called and also reply some to your questions.
Yes, I was driving. I don't know what "direct drive" means, so I can't comment to that. But, by the description in the manual for what Fail Safe Mode is, that is how it behaved; very reduced power, and a/c shut off. I did not stop the vehicle when this event occurred; just went slower. The car recovered itself after about ten minutes of driving. The flashing engine light went off, power returned and thank goodness the a/c came back on because it was hot in the cabin.

About the Ford service visit -
The service tech said there were no codes generated...nothing at all. So, the visit to the first mechanic was viable in that they said their scanner will pick up anything Ford does. Ford service said that their scanners can further drill down into modules or something like that. But in any event...no codes. They drove the vehicle for seventeen miles and could not reproduce the issue. I told them that test driving was likely not going to make the issue occur again.
I reminded the service tech that I had been driving in heavy rain prior to the event and wondered if they could spray the engine with water and try to reproduce. He said it's not a good idea to do that because of all the electronics around the engine. So, that's a lesson not to get one's engine cleaned in the old traditional sense.
He also said that it was possible that driving in the rain might cause a misfire if water got into the air intake.
My final thoughts are as follows:
1) The car should not go into Fail Safe Mode without warning (PERIOD). That is dangerous and I don't care who disagrees with me or if other vehicle manufacturers do the same thing. In my view, they force the car into Fail Safe Mode to protect their warranties at the expense of the driver's safety.
2) The flashing check engine light and Fail Safe Mode were active for over ten minutes of driving. There should have been some error codes produced. That is a bug.
3) As a result of this situation, I don't trust the car. When I hit the gas, I expect the car to go...every single time; not unexpectedly have the power cut out from under me. Vehicle trust and safety are a big deal. Multiple car manufacturers might have this same Fail Safe feature, but if others have the feature but it doesn't kick in by some false positive and particularly because it did not register a code to indicate the problem, then I'd be more likely to buy their vehicle in the future and not a Ford. My recommendation to Ford or any other manufacturer is to not allow Fail Safe mode to enable without an audible voice alert from the colsole like "An overheat condition has occurred (or whatever). This vehicle will have reduced power in thirty seconds. Please drive with caution or stop the vehicle (or whatever).

Just my two cents. I'm guessing this will probably happen again and I don't like the uncertainty.
I'll update if anything changes.

thx for everyone's input.
 
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