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If you were down-under in Oz I would suggest this HPR 40 25W-70 (Mineral) but we have much warmer climes and generally much higher ambient temperatures here that exaggerate the issues of using lighter synthetic blends in older cars designed for heavier oils and older engine where wear will drop oil pressures.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Ok; you will probably find if next oil change you change to an heavier no synthetic blend oil specified for the vehicle (and older vehicles) and without the Rislone rather than a modern synthetic the light will go out. But the oil you are using is probably OK just that the engine is old and worn and the lighter synthetic blend just triggers the switch. Perhaps Castrol Classic XL 20W-50 http://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/products/cars/classic-oils/classic-engine-oils.html or Shell Classic X-100 20W-50 https://www.shellx100oil.com/product-page/shell-x-100-motor-oil-20w-50-5-us-quart
Maybe I'll stick to regular 20W50 and some zinc additive. That stuff's more expensive than a 6qt full synthetic change.

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Discussion Starter #24
Well, I picked up some 20w50 and zinc additive. But have to wait for the weather to improve before trying anything. Too cold, windy, and rainy right now.

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Time to check the oil pressure with something like this: Oil Pressure Tester Gauge Engine Diagnostic Test Kit Adapters Case 0-100psi But first check the warning light is to specs (volts, amps and watts) and you don't have a sender unit meant for an oil pressure gauge rather than a warning light installed.

Edit: Ok checking your earlier post that is a warning light switch so just check you have the right switch (and globe) specified for that engine, year and vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Well, I went through replacing all of cluster bulbs with LEDs, so maybe that's why it's dimly illuminated.

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BTW doesn't the engine warning light on these signal either high coolant temperature or low oil pressure? So perhaps check/change the coolant temp sender too. See if detaching the wiring harness from either sensor makes the warning light go off.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
BTW doesn't the engine warning light on these signal either high coolant temperature or low oil pressure? So perhaps check/change the coolant temp sender too. See if detaching the wiring harness from either sensor makes the warning light go off.
It doesn't have a coolant temp sender. There are two ports for that in the thermostat housing, and one is being used by a vacuum switch of some kind.

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Discussion Starter #34
But on the bottom of page 1 of this thread you say:
That is in reference to the mounting points, so my apologies for not being more specific. If there was an actual sender, it would be mounted on the side of the thermostat housing.

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Discussion Starter #36
Ok, so research tells me that I'm quite wrong about where that sender would be. I haven't had a chance yet, though, to investigate where it should be and check it out. But I suppose I should also try swapping out the LED for a working incandescent and see what happens.

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Discussion Starter #37
Ok, found the coolant temp sender, hiding sort of behind the alternator. Guess I'll want to replace that regardless of whether or not it solves the idiot light issue. And I suppose if I want to add a gauge, I'll just use the extra port on the thermostat housing, I don't think there's sufficient space to double tap the port like there is for the oil pressure.

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