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Vintage Mustang Member
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74 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I currently have a Holley Carburetor on my 66 Mustang. I have a 289 engine bored out to 302. The Holley that is on there is pushing 750 CFM through the engine and is pushing to much fuel and and I need a smaller one. The guy I bought the car from thought that the bigger the carburetor the better.... Anyway, I was told to put a 600 CFM on there, but I was curious if anybody has any suggestions or ideas on the proper size to put on there. Also, does anybody have any tips on "tuning" the performance of the carburetor? Thanks!

*** UPDATE *****
Just looked it up and relized I have a 600 CFM on there. This one:

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/FMS/FMSC/0-1850S.html

Anyway, I'd still like to know what I should put on there. THANKS
 
M

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Well good news, if I understand you have that holley 600 vac secondaries. Unless you have a built up engine and need more "response" out of your motor, that is pretty much the best carb for your pony! You get the advantage of a 4bbl carb (power and flow), with the advantage of a 2bbl (economy). The vac secondaries close down when there is not a lot of vac sensed by the motor, ie just cruising along. But when you hit the gas (and create vacuum in the intake) the secondaries open up! The advantage of a mechanical advance secondary is that you get intant response, but in most applications you won't ever notice the differnce!:p
 

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PT Owner - SCPOC Prez
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681 Posts
exactly.

now, i have some mods on my 289, which is why i chose the 4150 series carb (the 650cfm double-pumper).

good choice! that carb will service your engine proudly for lots of miles.

:thumbup:
 

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Vintage Mustang Member
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74 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, took it to the ford guy. Figured out it was the vacuum advance. Fixed it perfect. It runs great now. I think it's going to be too much money and time to put this car back to all stock. I'm looking at going "Mod" with it.

Any suggestions on what I can do to the engine and/or car to accomplish this? ANYTHING would be of help.

Thanks.
 
M

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The first couple of places to go from here are as follows:

$300 +/-
Headers/ dual exhaust. Flowmaster 3 chamber seem to be everyones favorite, but a stock transversal setup will get you an improvement without as much noise.

$180 plus time or installation.
Rear end gear. 3.25 or 3.50. I have 3.89 in mine and feel its a little steep for day to day use. Remember, the higher you go, the faster it will get you started/out of the hole and more snap in your neck, but top end starts to get rougher. I run 4000 rpm at 80mph (try that for 8 hours on a roadtrip)!

$100 plus time If you don't have one already, pick up an aluminum highrise manifold. You will have to do the research on if you want a dual or single plane (I just got a cobra highrise manifold $325)

These upgrades will give you the first step and the most bang for your buck. Prices are just estimates, but are pretty close to what you will spend. Good luck!
 

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Vintage Mustang Member
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74 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I've already got dual exhaust on the car. It's a true dual exhaust and not one of these split at the back things. Remember, I have the original 66 Mustang engine in there, so I'm not sure as to some of these...

Per the rear end gear... I'm not sure what I have on there. The guy I bought the car from was looking to mod up the car as it is... I have dual glass-packs on there, a 4 brl 600 CFM Holley, I think I have a new (custom?) intake manifold.

What type of enigne do you have in your car? I've seen some people (I have pictures I think) put 2000 Cobra Mustang engines in their 66 Mustang body.

Any other ideas? :)

Thanks.


mfp4073 said:
The first couple of places to go from here are as follows:

$300 +/-
Headers/ dual exhaust. Flowmaster 3 chamber seem to be everyones favorite, but a stock transversal setup will get you an improvement without as much noise.

$180 plus time or installation.
Rear end gear. 3.25 or 3.50. I have 3.89 in mine and feel its a little steep for day to day use. Remember, the higher you go, the faster it will get you started/out of the hole and more snap in your neck, but top end starts to get rougher. I run 4000 rpm at 80mph (try that for 8 hours on a roadtrip)!

$100 plus time If you don't have one already, pick up an aluminum highrise manifold. You will have to do the research on if you want a dual or single plane (I just got a cobra highrise manifold $325)

These upgrades will give you the first step and the most bang for your buck. Prices are just estimates, but are pretty close to what you will spend. Good luck!
 
M

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Lets see here now. You have a lot of places you could go from here. Obviously putting a new motor in would get you a lot! But that is an undertaking that I don't know if you are into. Think about some of these things:

High flow airfilter setup
upgraded clutch (10.5 inch performance setup)
traction bars/under ride bars
export brace, monte carlo bar
hurst shifter
shift kit and etc(I don't know much about autos on these)
driveshaft loop (not good for performance, but good to keep you safe)
upgraded ignition, coil, plug wires( pertronix,msd drop in probillit, etc)
IGNORE THE SPLITFIRE AND QUAD POINT PLUGS they are a scam.
If you are really looking for performance you may wish to replace that 600 vac sec holley with a double pump. (my car is now chirping 3rd without clutching it, something that would not be possible with the vac secondaries.)


If you want to go into the engine I don't know where to tell you to start. It is going to make a big difference on what direction to head depending on what you want to do with the car, how much you want to spend, and what kind of time/skill constraints you have. I will try to think of some more.
 

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Vintage Mustang Member
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19 Posts
I would highly recommend starting with a package like the Edelbrock Performer or RPM Performer. They include carb, cam, intake and heads all matched up, for optimum performance after years of research. Visit them at www.edelbrock.com. Your other option is to start at the back end and work forward. Adding HP is great but if you can't get it to the pavement, it does you no good. I have done a restomod ground up 65 Coupe, a 65 FB (drag only) and now have been busy with a 68 FB. The 65 FB produced 429 HP naturally aspirated and with a 200 HP shot, delivered thru a Wilson Manifolds plate system made 629 HP and ran a best of 10.09 at 131.47. Small block Fords are real difficult when it comes to N2O...primarely due the the intake runner configuration, and lean outs are common, especially on the number one hole.

Have included a shot of the 65...302, stock block and crank..2 bolt mains.



ron
 
M

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I agree, if you decide to go the engine rebuild route, get a matched set. The industry has paid people stupid amounts of money to figure out what works together so you don't have to. It gets real expensive real fast though if you start thinking about facing the surfaces on the block, head rebuild or replacement, pistons, etc. Most people are coming to terms with the fact that it is cheaper and better to put a new ford 302 longblock in rather than rebuild a 289. Only the purists stick with those anymore.
 

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Vintage Mustang Member
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74 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I've got a 289 Stock in my car. It's been "rebuilt" once.

It's also been bored out some.

It's a three speed manual and I love it, but I was told I could drop a five speed 351 engine in there.

Is this really possible??
 

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Vintage Mustang Member
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19 Posts
Sure you can. Hooker makes the headers for this conversion, and JBA makes the transmission mount. Others, like Crites Restoration, make custom motor mounts.

Ron
 

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Vintage Mustang Member
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Are you asking what the entire conversion would cost, or just the cost of the headers, trannie crossover and new mounts? If just the parts, the Hooker headers, jet hot coated can run as high as $600.00, the trannie member about $100.00 and the mounts about $75.00

Keep in mind, that no matter what aftermarket parts you buy, you will ALWAYS have some sort of fit problem. I have found over the years that it is not what they do say, but what they don't say. Like putting a Tremec TKO in a65...."oh, yea...bolts right up"...what they neglected to say is that you had to open up the trannie tunnel...other than that, it bolted right up.

Ron
 
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