[jimarlie]

Hi All,

Quick question. Don't want to reinvent the wheel. Got the 67 ready to start but don't have an any fire to the coil. Is there a common problem that plagued the 67?. Keep in mind this car has not run for 10 - 12 years. Things under the dash look right but I have not traced everything back yet.

I am pretty well versed in 1961 - 1966 F series and E series Trucks and this 200 setup looks basically the same under the hood. Don't see anything obvious there.

Jim

 

[Guest]

I don't know of anything short of the fact that these cars are 35 years old! The underdash wiring would be a possiblity. I would hunt backwards starting at the coil for power. Sorry I don't have a better answer!

 

[jimarlie]

Chad,

Thats what I figured but you always hope for that time saving miracle. Thanks for the reply.

Jim

 

[Guest]

The only miracle I ever hope for is that after spending the 6 months looking for the problem that it is a simple, cheap fix and not some really unique part, that is obsolete, that is specific to your car, that is only made in some small village in peru, for a gazillion $$$$!

 

[ZoNiE]

Jim,

Do you by chance have a continuity tester? If not get one from your local electronic store or tool store. The purchase of one of these gizmos will save you hours of guess work. Personally, I would buy the one that will measure ac & dc current (who knows, might become useful one of these days for another job). They're not very expensive. Of course, that is relative. But, as I said it will save time and do the job.

First thing I would do would be to test the wire at the coil. This would be your first clue that the coil might be bad if there is a current reading (If I'm wrong, please let me know what I missed in your post). If there is "nada", then I would trace the wire back to the switch. If everything looks right at the switch, then I would test for current from the back of the switch. If by chance there is current, then you know it is in the wire (slim chance but possible). Now the part about the switch. I taken several apart before, and when part "A" is seperated from part "B" you may get a lot of little parts that we can call parts "C", "D', and "E" that shouldn't be there. After many years the insulation in that switch will crack and "volia" there more that likely is your problem. Even if the insulation (bakelite) has fine cracks that switch is still bad. I mention the switch, only because it is the weakest link in the system.

There is still more.....like how is the high tension lead from coil to distributor (that is if the coil checks out). Wire to distributor? The feed from the battery to the switch? Hmmm....did I miss anything? Let us know how your coming along with this problem....ok?

 

[Guest]

I think he was saying that it would not even turn over, whoops, never mind, just read it again and I don't know what I am talking about. Disregard my previous post!