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Discussion Starter #61
Oh, I done scrwed up. I ordered a bracket to mount a GM 1-wire alternator onto a BBF using an electric water pump. I wasn't paying attention, only catching onto it being less than perfect and cheaper since I'm not concerned about appearances right now.

I'm guessing that the electric water pump thing is fine because I believe it's a trimmed down version made to fit around the electric pumps that apparently take up more real estate on the front of the block. It's the GM 1-wire alternator configuration that's got me.

Hopefully they'll let me return it so I can order the correct bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
CVF Racing is pretty awesome. They quickly helped fix my mistake and now the correct bracket is on the way. Just need to get out there to pull that starter. And deal with a broken garage door opener to make this all even more fun. I'm going to try to get it out tonight now that the ground has dried off.
 

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The ground is saturated here and more on the way Friday. Could have been a hell of a snowstorm the past month if it were a little colder.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
I did get it pulled, but arrived at the parts store five minutes after they closed. Thought they were open until eight, but they closed at seven. Going to try to stop in on my way to work tomorrow morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Well, nothing is going to get done for a good long while. I installed the new starter and it still wouldn't crank, just hear the starter spin up. Crawled back under, pulled the starter out, took a look...

The teeth on the ring gear are chewed up now. I guess they were only able to take so much of this abuse. Looks like I'll be collecting parts again and waiting until warmer weather to drop the trans, replace the ring gear, and service the clutch while I have everything apart.
 

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Sorry to hear. There's always something. I just changed the entire rear end in the Crown Vic. I suppose it's good to have something to do instead of relaxing in front of the fireplace. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Well, while I spend some time handling the timing chain tenstioners and other stuff on my Marauder, and work on installing some shop lights in the garage, I can try to figure exaxtly what clutch and flywheel components I need.

Seems to an eclectic selection of parts indicating either 4-speed, 5-speed, 12" heavy duty, or no specification at all. I figure maybe my best bet is to just get a flywheel and clutch parts for the 12" heavy duty option. The truck has the T18/T19 4-speed (haven't yet checked to see which one), but the VIN and GVWR indicate it's a HD model. Should all work so long as I make sure the flywheel and clutch are matching applications.

One thing that was bugging me was how some of the clutch part listings said can handle "X more HP above stock", and giving either a HP number or a percentage. Feels kind of meaningless to me given that a lot of times the same clutch parts can be matched up to various engines of the same model year with varying power outputs.
 

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A lot of the specs are just useless marketing information. When possible, I stick with OEM parts for such critical components. If this truck is a "keeper" I would also consider pulling the entire drivetrain and just fix everything properly, including the timing and clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
My issue is mostly that I don't know if the clutch is 11" or 12", regardless of which it is can I just toss the 12" option in, and trying to identify clutch kits and matching flywheels. Haven't actually seen any Motorcraft clutch parts, honestly.

Given that I intend to keep this truck around for a long while to tow and haul stuff, I'd certainly also like to make sure whatever I get is up to the task. Maybe it'll never look good again, but I want it to operate as well as possible. This has pretty much been the story of this truck. Delayed work while trying to figure out the actual configuration, both in terms of factory construction and modifications.
 

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Once apart, you can match the flywheel, pressure plate and clutch disk. Check for pilot bushing wear and if really particular, align the bell housing with a dial indicator (basically just checking to see if the bellhousing face is parallel with the block and flywheel. You might be surprised). It's also important to check the trans input shaft for wear. To avoid doing the job twice, use the best parts and largest diameter clutch available. This is a also a good opportunity to check cam timing and replace that leaking crankshaft seal.

There's something about a good running old truck. They should have a "certain" patina, so I wouldn't worry about looks!
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Yeah, I was planning to just buy whatever parts would match up for the "heavy duty 12 inch" option, and I think I got myself a full matching set with flywheel and clutch kit. Just need enough money to make some purchases. I'll probably order a new timing cover gasket and other related parts around the same time, maybe just toss in a new water pump while I'm at it. In the meantime, on a warm and dry enough day, I can probably get the old brackets swapped out with that nice alternator bracket I ordered so that's ready to go for adjusting ignition timing. Although I suspect I may end up having to remove it anyway when accessing the timing cover.

Right now I'm just crossing my fingers that I'll get this truck running and moving again before Memorial Day weekend. I was wanting to host a family barbecue, but the truck is stuck blocking an area I'll need to access that's currently only reachable on foot. Kinda want to put a couple cars back there to get them out of the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
And yeah, I'm not too worried about looks. It's beat up looking, but that kind of adds to its charms. Mostly I really want to replace some of the cab mounts, since one has rusted through and the cab leans. Also need to have a new support welded under the bed since one of them rusted away. Makes for something of a soft spot that bows under body weight when you step on the wrong place.
 

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They are model specific, but that looks like the one you need.

Change the crankshaft oil seal and pay particular attention to the 90 degree joint where the pan and timing cover meet. Use a small bead of gasket sealer there or you will have a leak, but note "small". Over use of gasket sealer has caused oil passages to clog. Use a torque wrench and thread lock on EVERYTHING and anything you don't want to fall off. Button it up, then set the timing to factory spec after checking your distributor's overall condition. If it has one, the vacuum advance "cans" sometimes fail. A quick check of the vacuum advance can is to push the advance plate to to the advanced position, hold a finger over the vacuum port and see if the can (the diaphragm inside) holds vacuum.

Let us know how it runs. Hopefully you will stop "eating" starters.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Just an update. I'm finally able to start ordering parts, but anxiously awaiting a turn in the weather, too. It's going to be quite the job to get done, plus with a few other odds and ends getting handled with this. Seems like as good a time as any to just replace the water pump and fan clutch (123K+ miles, probably still 1987 original), since it all has to come off anyway.

I think before real disassembly I might want to go at it with a steam washer. There's dirty oil all over everything, figure it should get a good cleaning before any new parts are installed. And I believe it may also be a good opportunity during this process to replace the rear main seal, since I'll be needing to drop the trans and remove the flywheel. I've seen a method where is seems possible to do the job by just removing the pan and cap, but I'm concerned about the seal being the rope type. Not sure it can be removed with the method I saw for the rubber type seal.
 
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