Hi. I have a '93 Ford Probe GT (2.5L/V6/manual/120K miles). It hesitates and bucks occasionally, sometimes even stalling. Also, the check engine light comes on frequently. I took it to a shop, but they could not get the car to act up, nor could they determine what exactly is causing the check engine light to come on. They changed the plugs and plug wires, but the problem remains. Sometimes it hesitates/bucks when accelerating from a stop light, and sometimes it hesitates/bucks during acceleration in the 30-40-50 mph range. What do you think the problem/solution is? Thanks.
'93 Ford Probe GT
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Do you know how to read a code from your check engine light ? If not here's what you do. Grab a paper clip, open the hood to your car, look between your fuse box and water coolent res. There should be a little black box between the two , it will say Diganostics. I don't belive I spelt that right but you get the idea. Open the box, take your paper clip and have both ends go inside and have them touch the metal connectors inside the box. Turn the ignition to on, but don't start the engine. Your check engine light will begin flashing, count the number of flashes, that should tell you what's making the car act up the way it is. If you do this let me know what code "# of flashes" you come up. I can tell you what the problem is. I think it could be your fuel injection system, that's just going by what you said, but who knows. Or it could be your "MAF" Mas Airflow sensor.
93 Probe- Hesitation
Stacy,
I did what you said... the check engine light flashed about 50 times before I stopped because it seemed like it would go on forever. Does this number of flashes sound right, or not? Also, there are several metal connectors inside the box... does it matter which ones the paper clip touches? Thanks.
Stacy,
I did what you said... the check engine light flashed about 50 times before I stopped because it seemed like it would go on forever. Does this number of flashes sound right, or not? Also, there are several metal connectors inside the box... does it matter which ones the paper clip touches? Thanks.
ok, it sounds like you're not doing it correctly.
the correct way to do the diagnostic check can be found here.
you need to use a large paper clip and connect the TEN and GND pins. then turn on the ignition but do not start the car. the light sequence goes as follows:
a 1 second flash denoting 10's. 1 flash equals the first digit of the 2-digit code, in this case, a 1. 2 flashes means the code begins with a 2. 3 begins with a 3 and so on.
a .5 second flash denoting single digits. 3 flashes will give you the second digit in the 2-digit code, here a 3. 4 will give you the number 4 and so on.
so, for a bad vris #1, you will get four (4) long flashes, along with one (1) short flash. this will equal 41.
there is a small break in between codes. codes with no long or short sequence mean that either the first or second digit is a 0. for example, if a crankshaft position sensor error will give a code 02. that means you will not get the long flash, but two short flashes.
check out that link above. it will explain things a little better. there's also another site that's a little more explanatory that mine is. i think that link is: http://home.golden.net/~trinity
hope that helps you out.
the correct way to do the diagnostic check can be found here.
you need to use a large paper clip and connect the TEN and GND pins. then turn on the ignition but do not start the car. the light sequence goes as follows:
a 1 second flash denoting 10's. 1 flash equals the first digit of the 2-digit code, in this case, a 1. 2 flashes means the code begins with a 2. 3 begins with a 3 and so on.
a .5 second flash denoting single digits. 3 flashes will give you the second digit in the 2-digit code, here a 3. 4 will give you the number 4 and so on.
so, for a bad vris #1, you will get four (4) long flashes, along with one (1) short flash. this will equal 41.
there is a small break in between codes. codes with no long or short sequence mean that either the first or second digit is a 0. for example, if a crankshaft position sensor error will give a code 02. that means you will not get the long flash, but two short flashes.
check out that link above. it will explain things a little better. there's also another site that's a little more explanatory that mine is. i think that link is: http://home.golden.net/~trinity
hope that helps you out.
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Thanks Damon, for explaning more about checking codes. I was going to e-mail him, but showing him the web sites should do the trick.
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ProbeBandit
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Hey he stole my name! :nuts: no, LOL Just kidding. Good luck with the codes and welcome to the site! 
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the 93 up probe gt's have a VAF not a MAF....
don't confuse the lad...
VAF- Volume Air Flow sensor
MAF- Mass Air Flow Sensor
Big differance!!!
don't confuse the lad...
VAF- Volume Air Flow sensor
MAF- Mass Air Flow Sensor
Big differance!!!
Hesitation, stalling
Hi. The mechanic checked the codes for the check engine light and determined that I need a Throttle Position Sensor and 2 Oxygen sensors. How much should it cost to replace these parts? And how much labor? Thanks.
Hi. The mechanic checked the codes for the check engine light and determined that I need a Throttle Position Sensor and 2 Oxygen sensors. How much should it cost to replace these parts? And how much labor? Thanks.
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My parts book, mechanic, and repair manual call it a MAF sensor. So thats what I call it.DJ_SPECTRUM said:
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Re: Hesitation, stalling
O2 sensors are around, the last time I checked, $60.00 a peice. I have no idea how much a TPS sensor will cost.bandit1 said:
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194 Posts
You can do the 02s yourself, the front one is easy, the back is a little more challenging.
Trouble starting & engine revs up
Hi. Well the O2 sensors seem to have taken care of the check engine light and the hesitation. However, the engine still revs up while idling (stop light, after starting, etc). Also, I sometimes have trouble starting the car... it cranks, but does not turn over... at least until I wait a minute or so. (The mechanic mentioned the TPS- Throttle Position Sensor and Air Flow Meter). Does this make sense? If so, how much should I expect this to cost (parts and labor)? Thanks.
Hi. Well the O2 sensors seem to have taken care of the check engine light and the hesitation. However, the engine still revs up while idling (stop light, after starting, etc). Also, I sometimes have trouble starting the car... it cranks, but does not turn over... at least until I wait a minute or so. (The mechanic mentioned the TPS- Throttle Position Sensor and Air Flow Meter). Does this make sense? If so, how much should I expect this to cost (parts and labor)? Thanks.
Probe- Hesitation, etc.
Well, it appears that the O2 sensors took care of only the Check Engine light... and not the hesitation. The hesitation continues to occur while accelerating in the 30-40-50 mph range. Also, the idle is suddenly (while at a stop) rising up to about 2500-3000 rpm, and then it will go back down after several seconds. Finally, there is a problem starting the car... it seems to be occuring after I go somewhere and turn off the engine, and then try to start it after returning to my car. The engine cranks, but will not turn over. I cranked it about 5 times, then I stopped. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Well, it appears that the O2 sensors took care of only the Check Engine light... and not the hesitation. The hesitation continues to occur while accelerating in the 30-40-50 mph range. Also, the idle is suddenly (while at a stop) rising up to about 2500-3000 rpm, and then it will go back down after several seconds. Finally, there is a problem starting the car... it seems to be occuring after I go somewhere and turn off the engine, and then try to start it after returning to my car. The engine cranks, but will not turn over. I cranked it about 5 times, then I stopped. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
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Have you replaced the TPS sensor ?
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My car has just started doing the same thing. You go to crank it, barely turns over, wait a few seconds or so, and then it starts right up. The last time it did this the battery was bad. I wonder if my Alternator is going bad, or maybe it's a bad timing belt. The reason I wonder if it's my alternator. In the past week it started doing this. I go to crank it, slow crank, then I start to crank it again. Car starts up but the radio stations and clock has to be reset.
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probe1912
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I had the same problem with my 93 GT. It frequently bucked and sometimes stalled. I ended up needing a new crank sensor which solved the problem. It cost about $110 including labor.
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
Hi. The mechanic told me that after he put in the Throttle Position Sensor, a 09 Code (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor) came up. What does this sensor do, and if it is not working... what kind of symptoms will the car exhibit. Also, how much does it cost to replace? Thanks.
Hi. The mechanic told me that after he put in the Throttle Position Sensor, a 09 Code (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor) came up. What does this sensor do, and if it is not working... what kind of symptoms will the car exhibit. Also, how much does it cost to replace? Thanks.
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