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I posted early about a no start after timing belt replacement, well I figured that one out. One of the washers from the timing covers fell down by the crankshaft went around the pulley took it out of time and tore the belt. After putting another new belt on I was able to get it to start, now I have another issue. When it gets warm and I shut it off it's a pain to start again. I have to hold the pedal to the floor and hope it starts. When it starts cold it idles around 2000 rpm. I replaced the temperature sensor because I thought the first issue was an overheating because the fans wouldn't come on, but after coolant started leaking out I found out the water pump went. I made sure there wasn't any air in the lines when I added new coolant. I did notice that if I unplug the temp sensor when it's warm it will start right up but both fans will run at all times. Could the temp sensor be bad right out of the box? Any help would be great this thing is turning into a time and money pit. I did save the old sensor and will try that tomorrow.
 

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I did replace the sensor, because at first I thought the fans wouldn't come on because the sensor was bad. I tried to put the old one in but the top end of it broke off (must have been the original). I don't get any codes either. I read that the fans should come one when the jumper is plugged in, but they don't come on. When I pull the plug off the sensor both fans come on. It's the only way the car can be driving is having it unplugged. If I leave it plugged in the car won't start after it is warmed up. This PGT only have 60,000 original miles on it. It's actually my sons car and it's driving me nuts, because he wants to use it.
 

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I just found time to test it. its tested good. I'm totally lost on this. Not sure what to look at next. If i leave it plugged in and start it cold it will idle at 2000 rpm. if i unplug it it will idle good but the fans run. when i do start it cold with the temp sensor plugged in it's hard to start because it get to much fuel the plugs get soaked with fuel. Any help would be great.
 

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Captain obvious moment: the car thinks it's very cold. If the resistance is correct, then either the PCM is not picking it up right or you not getting a decent reference voltage to the sensor. You should be getting the same voltage supplied to it as the air intake sensor.
 

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Does the PCM also control the (auto) transmission? Now we have a shifting problem on this car.
 

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Changed the PCM but still have the same issue. Does anyone know where to go from here? I even tried another coolant temp sensor. What is the single wire sensor behind the CTS? I'm lost on this issue.
 

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The odd thing is I don't have any codes, onlt if I keep the CTS unplugged. Do you know what the single wire sensor is behind the CTS?
 

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had a simmilar problem in my telstar v6 (same klde v6 but in a 626)

only difference was mine was a manual. after paying to do both water pump and timing belt, it wouldnt idle at all. it took us a while to work out there wasnt enough water in the temp sender. so the engine thought it was cold and enriched the fuel mixture.

it will take a while to blow out the excess fuel. thats if you like me dont blow out the muffler first. things you learn :muha:

my car now needs a re-tune but it is driveable now.
 

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Didn't occur to me before, but Gooseboy may have your answer. The other sensor probably goes to your dash. The only two sensors that are in the engine management with a single wire are the knock sensor and I think the power steering, neither would be on the manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I did burp the water out of the lines. I did it with the cap on top of the motor. Should I leave the engine running with the cap off and let it get to operating temp, burp the hose again and then cap it with the engine running?
 
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